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Jul 30, 2014 | 07:44 AM

#16

The Horvaths

Posting Guru

Joined: Sep 2012

Posts: 1,314

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And, don't laugh, make sure that you understand the cylinder numbering scheme. Trust me..

Agreed that timing is likely culprit. Probably too far advanced. Turn distributor CCW to delay spark. Rotor turns CCW on a y-block! This ain't no "small block scrub" motor.

Aug 1, 2014 | 11:49 PM

#17

mgerdau

Thread Starter

Mountain Pass

Joined: Mar 2013

Posts: 244

Likes: 6

From: Central Oregon

Quote:

Originally Posted by ALBUQ F-1

I tried a bunch of different methods for setting the valves on my flathead, and the one that works best was to bring each valve to fully open, then spin the crank one full turn. It takes longer, but it absolutely guarantees that you are on the base circle for each valve. There was a significant difference compared to some methods that are quicker.

Ok, today we had success!

I did a couple of things. First, I started at TDC and adjusted #1, then while watching the rotor adjusted #5, and so on until I had all of the valves done. Then I cranked the engine over and double checked the valves. Everything was going great. I then took all of the plug wires off of the distributor and left them on the plugs (only because I already had the wire lengths and didn't want to sort through them again) and then walked through the firing order checking the plug wires were for the right cylinder and putting them on the right distributor tower. Once that was done I put a small amount of gas in the carb to start the engine and prime the pump. She fired up nice and loud, I only have the headers on.

Need to set the timing. Everything I've seen is to set the timing at 2 degrees BTDC and RPM at 500 - does that sound right?

I did set up my gauges but my oil pressure was 80 pounds and my temp gauge didn't seem to want to work. So I may have them wired up wrong.

Does anyone have a schematic for gauges or know what side hot is?

Aug 2, 2014 | 06:34 AM

#18

raytasch

Believe Nothing

Joined: Jun 2004

Posts: 7,513

Likes: 394

From: W. Central FL.

Do not let that newly rebuilt flat tappet Y block idle. Bring it to a couple thousand RPM and keep it there for 30 minutes. The cam needs full splash lubrication.
Timing is set with vacuum disconnected, four deg BTDC, and at idle. But, you don't want it to idle during the critical break in.

Aug 2, 2014 | 09:36 AM

#19

mgerdau

Thread Starter

Mountain Pass

Joined: Mar 2013

Posts: 244

Likes: 6

From: Central Oregon

Quote:

Originally Posted by raytasch

Ray, I've had it running at about 1200 rpms, but not for long because my gauges don't seem to be working right. I want to monitor the oil and temp. One thing I found out is the header paint said it was good for 2000 degrees, well its not. My pretty headers are all blistered now. Should have sprung for some nice headers but wanted the stock look, oh well.

Aug 4, 2014 | 12:00 AM

#20

HT32BSX115

Logistics Pro

Joined: Feb 2005

Posts: 3,952

Likes: 117

From: Upper Left Coast

Quote:

Originally Posted by bjmayberry2

I agree with Ray. Bring number 1 (front cylinder on the passenger side) to TDC then pull the distributor cap and make sure the rotor is pointing to the spark plug tower for number 1 cylinder. Then check firing order 1-5-4-8-6-3-7-2 tuneup.htm

Attachment 103087

Here's a post on Backfire thru Carb.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...gh-carb-2.html

Keep us up on what you find.

That picture might be a little confusing as to what it back and what is front.

The following is from Mummerts site.

passenger side

.........1 2 3 4
front.......................back
..............5 6 7 8

driver's side (except UK, OZ)

Aug 4, 2014 | 07:12 AM

#21

bjmayberry2

Lead Driver

Joined: Dec 2012

Posts: 9,698

Likes: 823

From: Wentzville, MO

Quote:

Originally Posted by HT32BSX115

I agree. Didn't realize the distributor was in the front on that picture.

Aug 4, 2014 | 11:01 AM

#22

HT32BSX115

Logistics Pro

Joined: Feb 2005

Posts: 3,952

Likes: 117

From: Upper Left Coast

Quote:

Originally Posted by bjmayberry2

I agree. Didn't realize the distributor was in the front on that picture.

True, the dist is of course, on the back of the engine on a "Y", But for this discussion, it doesn't really matter where it is. The firing order and positions of #1 and #4 make all the difference.

If you get a couple of spark wires wrong, the engine will still run. Get the "right" ones "wrong" and it'll spit back thru the carb!

BTDT !!