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I found the sock filter in the bottom of the tank when I removed the sending unit, is that normal? I am ordering new hoses and a new sending unit. The eec system is intact with the exception of the line from the "coffee can" to the air filter housing. Do you have a picture of what that is supposed to look like?
That tank bottom looks nice and clean .
No, the filter sock is supposed to be on the end of the fuel pick up tube.
The evap tube that goes from the canister to the side of the air filter housing is available from NAPA (NOS pieces haven't been available for years). The NAPA piece is a corrugated ¾" tube, three feet long that can be bent to whatever configuration is needed. The NAPA p/n is BK825-4025.
Here's a picture of it just stuck on the canister while it was sitting on my bench. It comes folded up like that for packaging.
I set #1 at TDC and the rotor was pointing at the #1 wire on the cap.
It started a few times and would rev high, like the choke is on, and then just die with no response to the throttle. Sometimes it would seriously backfire as it died.
You really need a timing light to accurately set the timing. Doing it like you did will get you in the neighborhood but you need the light to get you to the right house.
From your description, it still sounds like a fuel delivery problem. What you can do, get a can of starting fluid. Spray some down the throat of the carb. If it starts, spray more in, see if it will keep running. If it does, that will confirm a fuel problem. If it still stalls then the problem is elsewhere. I would start looking at the ignition system.
CRAP! I forgot this was a points & condenser ignition.
Yes, change them. That sounds like a bad condenser.
When you change the points, be sure to clean the contacts before you install them. Points develop an oxide coating on them when they sit in stock for any length of time. Run some fine sandpaper between the contacts then run a piece of paper between the contacts. This will remove any abrasive left from the cleaning. A dollar bill works well.
Install the points and gap to .017"
EDIT: Another thing to check. The primary wire that goes from the coil to the points (the small wire) moves back and forth as the vacuum advance moves the breaker plate. Sometimes this will cause the wire to break internally and cause an intermittent problem. These wires are still available from most parts stores.
When I did some looking at the distributor cap, I found a suspiciously fried wire going from the coil to the truck wiring harness. When I unwrapped the electrical tape this is what I found. Replacing cap, rotor, points, condensor and this wire.
Is it not trying to start at all now? Or is it still "trying"?
If it's not doing anything, check to make sure you have spark. If there isn't any spark make sure that the points are clean and properly gaped.
Another possibility is now, after all the "trying" to start it, the plugs are fouled.
If you have good, consistent spark, pull the plugs and see if they're wet and fuel fouled.
Still trying.... I'll pull the plugs tomorrow. Can I clean the plugs?
It depends on how and how bad they're fouled (if they are fouled). They used to make a spark plug cleaner that was a miniature sand blaster, I haven't seen one of those in years. Laborwise, nowadays, it cheaper to just replace them than try and clean them.
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