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Guys, anybody, please, help. I need my truck for work today and it's not starting! Like I said, I did the EGR cooler and oil cooler. Now when I try to start it, when the fuel conditioner is doing it's thing it hisses from the fuel bowl. I cannot see where it's coming from, I even tried soapy water, nothing. I just hear a hiss, no fuel leaking, nothing. Sounds like it's coming out, not going in (air), but I could be wrong. Any help is greatly appreciated. I am in a real pickle here. Oh, I forgot to mention that when I did the blue spring upgrade, the housing bolts for it broke off. I had to re tap the holes, but there is an air leak there I believe. Also, the first couple of times I tried to start it, it ran for a second or two very rough. Now it just cranks.
Sounds like you have a leaker. Did you get new o-rings for these locations? There are others in the kit that kinda work but aren't a perfect fit. (Note color) could be the keyhole shaped seal behind the cover also. Nothing to do but revisit your work and inspect carefully. Do you have a device to see engine sensor readings?
Guys, anybody, please, help. I need my truck for work today and it's not starting! Like I said, I did the EGR cooler and oil cooler. Now when I try to start it, when the fuel conditioner is doing it's thing it hisses from the fuel bowl. I cannot see where it's coming from, I even tried soapy water, nothing. I just hear a hiss, no fuel leaking, nothing. Sounds like it's coming out, not going in (air), but I could be wrong. Any help is greatly appreciated. I am in a real pickle here. Oh, I forgot to mention that when I did the blue spring upgrade, the housing bolts for it broke off. I had to re tap the holes, but there is an air leak there I believe. Also, the first couple of times I tried to start it, it ran for a second or two very rough. Now it just cranks.
Thank you in advance,
John
Did you need to use the black bushing that came in your blue spring kit? And if so did you install the oring that goes between that black bushing and the fuel filter housing?
Did you need to use the black bushing that came in your blue spring kit? And if so did you install the oring that goes between that black bushing and the fuel filter housing?
It's running, but I'd like to know more of what you're talking about. Are you talking about the o ring that goes on the little white vent thing? I broke my white thing, I think it's an air vent, so I used the new one, and used the new o ring that they gave me with it. I used also the blue spring, and the aluminum thing it goes into. That's all I used from the kit.
When you take the EGR/oil cooler out, does it take a long time to start afterwards? And if so, how long? Because I cranked until my batteries died. Then I got the new fuel/oil bowl, because the screws broke off taking the spring cover off. I tried to re-tap them, but to no avail. Then it started after AWHILE! It took a lot to get it going. But it runs good, deltas are 8 degrees max.
When you take the EGR/oil cooler out, does it take a long time to start afterwards? And if so, how long? Because I cranked until my batteries died. Then I got the new fuel/oil bowl, because the screws broke off taking the spring cover off. I tried to re-tap them, but to no avail. Then it started after AWHILE! It took a lot to get it going. But it runs good, deltas are 8 degrees max.
John
Yes it takes a while to purge all the air out of the system and for the lpop to prime the system back up, I was getting nervous when I did mine, I did not time it but it seemed forever. Then when it was getting close the engine would kick like it wanted to start, I would only crank for a little at a time them let the starter rest.
Did you need to use the black bushing that came in your blue spring kit? And if so did you install the oring that goes between that black bushing and the fuel filter housing?
Here's a picture of what mustang is talking about. The plastic insert isn't used on all trucks - like the one in the picture. On other regulator housings the hole the spring goes in is much larger and the plastic "bushing" goes in before the spring. There is an o-ring behind the lip of the bushing. If you leave it off it won't run correctly and I understand it does make a noise. Good catch Brett! Rep ya when I can. (Even if that's not the problem )
Here's a picture of what mustang is talking about. The plastic insert isn't used on all trucks - like the one in the picture. On other regulator housings the hole the spring goes in is much larger and the plastic "bushing" goes in before the spring. There is an o-ring behind the lip of the bushing. If you leave it off it won't run correctly and I understand it does make a noise. Good catch Brett! Rep ya when I can. (Even if that's not the problem )
Thank you for the pic Rusty, as they say a picture is worth a thousand words. I tried to find one but wasn't able to. And it does make a sound when that oring is missing, you can hear the fuel bypassing that bushing.
During my resent work I had a lot of hissing and no leak
at all. What I think was going on was the air in the filter
was venting back to the tank by way of the return line.
I did the fuel filter replacement prime steps more than
the 3 times that we do. About the 5th time the hissing
had stopped. I know I had a lot of air in the system with
the supply and return lines off. So I know there was a lot of air.
Thank you for the replies everybody. I did not have that bushing, mine is aluminum. It's running fine now, only suddenly I have a hot start issue. It takes longer than usual during a hot start. Anybody know why that would happen so suddenly after changing EGR/Oil coolers?
Trash on the IPR screen is common after having the system opened up. Just a little lint from shop rags used to wipe out the HPO resivoir can do it. Sometimes there is solder/welding splatter in the new coolers that ends up on the screen also. Look for the screen to be pushed in. Btw if you look closely it's not really a screen but a plate with tiny holes drilled in it. Pretty precision stuff.
Trash on the IPR screen is common after having the system opened up. Just a little lint from shop rags used to wipe out the HPO resivoir can do it. Sometimes there is solder/welding splatter in the new coolers that ends up on the screen also. Look for the screen to be pushed in. Btw if you look closely it's not really a screen but a plate with tiny holes drilled in it. Pretty precision stuff.
Oh wow, thank you, I will check it out if I can get to it with everything back on.
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