Need some help with this E-250
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Tuned
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 287
Likes: 11
From: Alliston, Ontario
Need some help with this E-250
I was given this 2004 E-250 PS as the owner didn't want to put anymore money into it. It has 300k miles and has been a good runner. I'm trying to use this 'forscan' software to diagnose the issues. The van will barely start and when it does sounds like it's running only on a couple of cylinders.
Checked the FICM voltage - 47~48V so appears okay. The software picked up cylinders 1, 4 and 7 as high contribution faults. So thinking it needs 3 injectors.
From what the owner told me it was running good and than wouldn't start and has more or less been sitting ever since. Is it possible for all 3 injectors to go at the same time ? I figure they would give you some warning as they have on my truck.
I was going to use the engine and trans as a back-up for my '05 in they event it gives up the ghost. Didn't want to dump $600 in injectors and a lot of scrapped knuckles to change these out to find it has bigger issues.
Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Checked the FICM voltage - 47~48V so appears okay. The software picked up cylinders 1, 4 and 7 as high contribution faults. So thinking it needs 3 injectors.
From what the owner told me it was running good and than wouldn't start and has more or less been sitting ever since. Is it possible for all 3 injectors to go at the same time ? I figure they would give you some warning as they have on my truck.I was going to use the engine and trans as a back-up for my '05 in they event it gives up the ghost. Didn't want to dump $600 in injectors and a lot of scrapped knuckles to change these out to find it has bigger issues.
Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Thread Starter
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Tuned
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 287
Likes: 11
From: Alliston, Ontario
I will have to upload the software again to get the actual code - it was a high contribution fault code IIRC.
The FICM voltage taken was cold. I can't get it to run long enough to get the engine warm.
Not sure how to do a bubble test on this unit as the fuel filter is on the underside IIRC. The layout looks entirely different than the truck version. If anyone has any experience on how to do the test on an E-van I will give it a try.
To bad it isn't a high pressure oil pump problem. The rear of these engines are really easy to work on with the dog house pulled.
I'll report back on the actual fault codes of those injectors.
The FICM voltage taken was cold. I can't get it to run long enough to get the engine warm.
Not sure how to do a bubble test on this unit as the fuel filter is on the underside IIRC. The layout looks entirely different than the truck version. If anyone has any experience on how to do the test on an E-van I will give it a try.
To bad it isn't a high pressure oil pump problem. The rear of these engines are really easy to work on with the dog house pulled.
I'll report back on the actual fault codes of those injectors.
Post Fiend
Joined: Oct 2009
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From: N. Fort Worth, tx
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Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2010
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From: Woodbridge, Ontario, CA
And exactly WHAT is "easy" to do on any E-Series?
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Postmaster
Joined: Jul 2005
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From: Abilene, Texas
Yep I did one not to long ago. Looking at it I thought man this is going to be nice to pull the turbo, but nope it was a pain I. The a$$ to get out. I would much weather pull a turbo on a truck any day.
Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 5,504
Likes: 256
From: Woodbridge, Ontario, CA
Pulling a turbo on a van isn't that bad. Simply remove your intake and exhaust connections, the VGT electrical connector and oil supply tube. One those are all removed (as well as the three bolts that secure the turbo to the pedestal), you lift up the turbo just high enough to smack the turbo drain tube out of the HPOP cover. With the drain tube removed, the turbo will finesse its way out through the doghouse cover with relative ease.
My pet peeve with working on vans is access to and removal of the passenger side valve cover.
My pet peeve with working on vans is access to and removal of the passenger side valve cover.
Thread Starter
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Tuned
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 287
Likes: 11
From: Alliston, Ontario
The injector codes
===DTC P0262-60===
Code: P0262 - Cylinder #1 Injector Circuit High
===DTC P0271-60===
Code: P0271 - Cylinder #4 Injector Circuit High
===DTC P0280-60===
Code: P0280 - Cylinder #7 Injector Circuit High
I give you Ford Techs credit for working on these E-vans they look like a nightmare. Lifting the front hood is a joke. If it's as bad as I think it might be to work on I'll just haul it off to the scrap yard.
===DTC P0262-60===
Code: P0262 - Cylinder #1 Injector Circuit High
===DTC P0271-60===
Code: P0271 - Cylinder #4 Injector Circuit High
===DTC P0280-60===
Code: P0280 - Cylinder #7 Injector Circuit High
I give you Ford Techs credit for working on these E-vans they look like a nightmare. Lifting the front hood is a joke. If it's as bad as I think it might be to work on I'll just haul it off to the scrap yard.
Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 5,504
Likes: 256
From: Woodbridge, Ontario, CA
With those DTCs, I would run a KOEO injector buzz test to see how the injectors sound first. If they sound bad, I would then try swapping out the FICM from your F-Series into it, and repeating the test to see if it changes anything. If swapping FICMs doesn't change anything, you either have bad injectors, or the main engine wiring harness needs replaced.
Thread Starter
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Tuned
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 287
Likes: 11
From: Alliston, Ontario
Thanks M-Chan. I have a spare FICM that I know is ok so I can definitely give that a try. This van has the old strategy with the loud injector buss with KO. It does sound like there are a few that aren't buzzing.
Not looking forward to moving injectors around
Not looking forward to moving injectors around
