Beside my intro Thread... this is my first question... I have a 1992 ford f250 4wd 5.8 e4od trans... i had a TPS installed and my trans didn't shift right so with that said i had it adjusted... NOW the ABS light comes on when it shifts from 2nd to 3rd and NO overdrive... Overdrive stopped working when the ABS light started coming on... so again i was told to change the abs/vss sensor in the rear axle... changed it NO Change... so i changed the abs module behind the glovebox... still no change... HELP.!?!?!?

 

The ABS module has no relation with the VSS sensor in the rear, have you tried pulling codes? see what does the computer have stored. It seems that your problem could be with the MLPS, which is attached to the transmission itself.

 

OK, so i have pulled the Codes DTC-565 and 512... now this morning i had went up the road to the flea market and it shifted fine but still no over drive. and i got ready to leave at the flea market and was pulling out and shifted good from 1st to 2nd and shifted from 2nd to 3rd but they was no 3rd... just like the truck went in neutral. so i had to drive it back home in 2nd gear... i have been hearing a metal jingle in the rear of the truck at really slow speeds and i have been under it and nothing is loose everything is tight and solid. i was told this all could result in the tone ring in the rear end. is this possible.???

 

That should be easy to check, open the rear differential, the tone ring is attached to the rear of the main ring, if the tone ring is missing tooth or damaged in any way that might cause problems with the transmission.

 

Is the speedometer/odo working? Check fuses #8 and #18 if it is not working. The speedo(PSOM) sends speed info to the ECU for the shift points of the E4OD tranny. No speed info will cause hard shifts and no OD.

If the speedo/odo is functional and you still get the VSS codes, then the PSOM(pc board on back of speedometer) could be bad. It is a common failure of older trucks, a capacitor leaks and eats up the PSOM's pc board.

 

Hello Eddie, Yes the speedo is working everything works fine on the instrument panel... but i did unplug the TPS yesterday and the trans is shifting in ever gear except O/D... i'm gonna pull the inspection plate off the rear axle thursday and check the abs ring... QUESTION... which trans is better a C6 or E4OD.??? and how much trouble is it to change over to a C6 from a E4OD.???

 

When you replaced the VSS did you get a good look at the wire/harness? I had an issue with my VSS (Speedo flicker, ABS light sometimes came on, hard shifts) and it ended up being a short in the wire going to the sensor. Apparently this is a common issue.

However, if your speedometer is working fine that is probably a good indicator that the signal is ok.

 

Thanks Beard for your reply,

i plan to remove the rear axle cover thursday and i will check the harness while i do that... and will reply with results. Thank you

 

the E40D is a much more advanced trans than that of it's predecessor.you wouldn't want a non lockup converter and just a 1:1 ratio with these fuel prices.unless it's just a yard truck or an old beater just used for like 2-3k miles per year i suppose.

512 (M) Memory power (PCM pin 1) was interrupted - Was battery disconnected ?

565 (O) Canister Purge 1 solenoid/circuit failure

 

no problem. the short on mine was a foot or 2 back from the wire harness, where the wire passes over the differential.

 

If the speedometer is working right and steady the tone ring and the VSS & wiring would be OK.
Also you do not have a VSS code so the VSS and PSOM should not be causing your transmission problems.
Sometimes you haft to go to a Ford dealer to get the VSS as there seems to be more than one for the rear end and the auto part stores only sells one to fit all.

As Encho said above the problem could be with the MLPS because you have no transmission errors.

The 512 most of the time means the battery was disconnected and then codes were not cleared after putting the battery cables back on.

What problems did you have before yo replaced the TP sensor?

 

OK SUBFORD, from day one i bought the truck and had to tow it home... it had been sitting for 4 years in a barn with hay piled all over it. The previous owner said it would not run....... SO I got it home and the first thing i noticed that every time i would start it i would have to prime the system through the throttle body... and it ran like a heap of junk ready for the junk yard. blue smoke,back firing,shaking all over, you could go anywhere backward but not forward... it was like stomping the emergency brake when in drive... SO i started with the fuel pumps.. This is all NEW... Fuel pumps,fuel lines,fuel filter,fuel injectors,fuel pressure regulator,new ignition wires and plug,TPS,idle air control valve,egr,map,all new vacuum lines... everything i had put on here new didnt not help a thing... SO i pulled the ECM and went got a NEW (rebuilt) from Oreilly's... got the new one in 3 days later it started up and ran like a new one.!!! SO that got the motor running as it should... so i took it out for a test drive and the transmission was jumping from in and out of over drive so i bought a new solenoid pack for the trans and and changed the filter with new fluid and nothing changed... then i changed the NSS still nothing... then i was told to check the VSS in the rear axle changed it and still nothing... thats when i was told that the TPS had to be adjusted... so i had it adjusted it did help but right after that the abs light came on and i lost over drive for good...

 

TPS should not have to be adjusted. The screw holes are not long gated. The TPS should put out between 0.6 Volts & 1.0 volts.

But I have heard that by adjusting it a little you can keep it from down shifting some when using speed control. I do not know how true that is as I have never tried it.

When you start the engine the computer reads the TPS and takes that voltage reading as CT (closed throttle). The computer only has three voltage levels, CT, PT & FT.
•Closed Throttle can be anywhere between 0.6-1.0 volts
•Part Throttle is triggered @ 0.04 volts above Closed Throttle
•Full Throttle is triggered @ 2.71 volts above Closed Throttle

You may need to change the TPS again if it is not putting out the above voltages.

I do not know what is up with the ABS but I think it is unrelated to the transmission issue. You might have to have it dump out its code by flashing its yellow light in codes. That should tell you what its problem is.



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