i replaced my degas cap a few weeks ago and 2 days ago it was 95 degrees driving around in town it started puking again every time i let off the go pedal, it didn't loose alot of coolant just a little, today i got home and was looking at the cap and so on it looks like oil on the cap see pictures




also have a question about the fan, in the 95 degree heat stop and go under 30 mph with the a/c blasting i didn't hear the fan come on once, i have read that i should be able to hear the fan roar? i am thinking about getting the bpd adapter and using a 7.3 fan clutch. but more curious about the oil? and if a ruptured oil cooler can cause the puking or maybe it was running too hot, i thought my coolant temp sensor was off always reading 186 with a 192 t stat in... just confused thanks all

 

How full are you running your degas bottle? Should be maintained slightly below the low level mark molded in the degas bottle as the old low is now the new high.

 

Right at the low mark

 

That don't look so good. Do you monitor your coolant and oil temps? Have you ever put any additives in the cooling system? What kind of coolant are you running? Any recent work done on the truck?

I'd take a close look in the bottle and try to decide if it's fuel, oil, maybe exhaust residue, trans fluid or something else. Figuring that out could tell you which way to go next.

Fuel will rise to the top when sitting overnight. It's pretty easy to pick up on the smell.

Oil kinda goes through stages. It can be small globs, or just a ring around the inside of the bottle with a oil "sheen" on top of the coolant and can progress to a grey milkshake.

Trans fluid has a red color in the bottle IF the fluid in the trans is still red anyway.

Exhaust is black and dry soot going into the system, and kinda tries to stay that way. It has a definite exhaust smell and the parts store has an inexpensive test kit if you want to verify.

If you or a previous owner put any kind of cleaners or additives in there it may be hard to pin down.

A straight water flush and fresh coolant may be a good starting place if it hasn't been serviced for awhile.

 

This description of how the fan works is from the Tech folder:
Some say fan kicks on at 210, some say 215, others say 220. Full explanation: Engine temperature is not the only parameter that the PCM monitors to determine cooling fan operation. This is the reason that you will see some variation in engine temperature as it correlates to fan operation. The operation/description of the FSS (Fan Speed Sensor) from the PC/ED manual has a fairly good explanation as to how the system "thinks". This is not your traditional engine hits temp X and the fan clutch locks up. The fan speed sensor is a Hall-Effect sensor integral to the vistronic drive fan (VDF). The powertrain control module (PCM) will monitor sensor inputs and control the VDF speed based upon engine coolant temperature (ECT), transmission fluid temperature (TFT) and intake air temperature (IAT) requirements. When an increase in fan speed for vehicle cooling is requested, the PCM will monitor the FSS signal and output the required pulse width modulated (PWM) signal to a fluid port valve within the VDF. Engine begins to defuel at 221 deg. The thermostat begins to open at about 190*F to 195*F and is not fully open until about 215*F to 219*F..

 

Looks like Rusty has you covered. The scenario you described may
be that the engine was not putting enough heat into the system to
need the fan. Had you been doing that and had a heavy load you then
most likely would of gotten some fan response.
Do you have some thing so you can look at the temps?
Also you may want to look at the FSS and see where that is at.
If you have a Scanguage II then you can program in the Xguages to
read and display this info.


Sean

 

What is on your cap looks more like soot (carbon particles from exhaust gas) to me.

 

Yup. My guess.

 

I have had it for about 6 weeks, and it was bone stock down to the orange cooler hose, and had a huge coolant leak which was the cooler hose so I did an egr delete, it has green coolant in it now with no additives, I went out this morning with it cool and looked in the bottle and there is blackish small globs floating in the coolant and black speckles on the inside of the bottle,

so I am thinking oil? will a ruptured oil cooler make it puke?

I use the torque app to monitor things, yesterday 90 degrees out, coolant was 183-187 around town with a/c running, never did hear the fan kick on, eot was 208-212

 

thankyou, I think on my torque app I can read fss

 

forgot to add a few pictures

 

The coolant looks like a gold color in the pics, hopefully that's what's in there. The green coolant that we've used in our vehicles forever is a no-go on a 6.0. Reason being the formulation of the green coolant is based on a silicate. Silicate has been blamed on clogging up the oil cooler on these trucks. What makes a 6.0 different is the very high temps in the EGR cooler. I see you have done a delete so that may help but if you do have the parts store green coolant in there I'd flush it and refill with Motorcraft Gold or better yet a silicate free Extended Life Coolant (ELC) which are red in color (not orange DexCool).

Your temp spread looks kinda high for around town. The "approved" way of testing it is out on the road at 65mph for 10-15min fully warmed up. Anything over 15° difference between the oil and coolant temp would indicate a failing oil cooler- needing replacement. Also, that does look like maybe oil in the coolant (along with the soot on the cap) it may be the oil cooler is just beginning to leak oil into the coolant. If so, it's a bad idea to drive it. The oil will accumulate and turn the coolant into a milkshake and it's a booger to wash all that out. Many flushes with detergent. It would be much easier now. I'll let some of the other guys comment, they may be thinking differently than me.