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Old Jul 3, 2014 | 10:38 AM
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e40d questions

What's a good brand torque converter for a 94 f150 4.9? Should I get a higher stall converter? And where is a good place to get a solenoid pack from?
 
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Old Jul 3, 2014 | 11:52 AM
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Stay with a stock convertor unless you have a modified engine. The higher stall generates more heat, cuts fuel economy and isn't really made to pull a heavy pick-up from a standing start.
 
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Old Jul 3, 2014 | 11:54 AM
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Ok any good brand to use that's not to expensive
 
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Old Jul 3, 2014 | 08:09 PM
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From: Mi'kma'ki
why do you suspect converter failure? especially if you also suspect the solenoid pack has failed?

if your getting the converter slip code,first suspect the solenoid pack plug,next the solenoid pack.how did you test and condemn the pack?

im suspecting your getting the converter slip code,but if it's unrelated to hard parts and you toss parts at it in an attempt to fix it,a new/reman converter and pack won't resolve the issue if they're not bad in the first place.
 
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Old Jul 3, 2014 | 08:50 PM
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Originally Posted by krooser
Stay with a stock convertor unless you have a modified engine. The higher stall generates more heat, cuts fuel economy and isn't really made to pull a heavy pick-up from a standing start.
A higher stall converter in an E4OD doesn't really affect fuel economy or cause high trans temps because it is still a lock-up converter.
 
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Old Jul 4, 2014 | 12:01 AM
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Florida Torque Converter

I have owned their SD converter in a previous truck and now own their triple disk billet converter in my current truck.
 
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Old Jul 4, 2014 | 12:24 AM
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Seems like a good place now where should I look for a good solenoid pack that the wallet won't get raped
 
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Old Jul 4, 2014 | 08:14 AM
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From: Mi'kma'ki
Originally Posted by spyder0382
Seems like a good place now where should I look for a good solenoid pack that the wallet won't get raped
http://www.ebay.com/itm/E4OD-4r100-89-94-SHIFT-SOLENOID-PACK-BLOCK-OEM-FORD-TRANSMISSION-NON-PWM-/321448751160?_trksid=p2054897.l4275
 
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Old Jul 4, 2014 | 08:26 AM
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Originally Posted by FORDF250HDXLT
why do you suspect converter failure? especially if you also suspect the solenoid pack has failed?

if your getting the converter slip code,first suspect the solenoid pack plug,next the solenoid pack.how did you test and condemn the pack?

im suspecting your getting the converter slip code,but if it's unrelated to hard parts and you toss parts at it in an attempt to fix it,a new/reman converter and pack won't resolve the issue if they're not bad in the first place.
I agree with this...

How did the OP determine the converter is bad or come to the conclusion the solenoid pack is bad?

Ford re - designed the connector in 1995 for a reason: the old design is prone to moisture and dirt infiltration.
 
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Old Jul 4, 2014 | 09:35 AM
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I dropped the pan removed the pack and ohmed out the solenoids they checked out fine. The only problem I had was the pack came apart in pieces just want make that right. And the converter I want to replace just because when I drop the transmission to replace the converter seal I might as well do the converter.
 
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Old Jul 4, 2014 | 11:03 AM
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I did clean the connector pins removed all corrosion and dirt build up. And put dielectric grease in there from motorcraft
 
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Old Jul 4, 2014 | 02:23 PM
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Okay, that makes perfect sense now!
 
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Old Jul 4, 2014 | 03:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Blurry94
A higher stall converter in an E4OD doesn't really affect fuel economy or cause high trans temps because it is still a lock-up converter.
But it won't lock up in stop and go driving… and they will heat up especially if you carry any kind of load. These are daily drivers we are talking about here...
 
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Old Jul 4, 2014 | 10:20 PM
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I've been driving around with a 3000 stall converter for nearly 6 years and I've never ran into that issue, daily driven and at the track (and I pull a trailer to the track at times). It actually acts more stock-like that you would think under normal driving conditions. The stock converter is just a single disk lock-up type which is prone to clutch slippage over time which can increase heat and eventually take out the rest of the transmission, where as a multi-disk lock up is much stronger than stock. The higher stall speed allows the motor to stall closer to its peak torque which will allow the it to perform better under heavy load. I've noticed that a stock stall converter can cause the motor to 'lug' a little more when under load as well. Mine seems to allow the motor to spool up to get to speed quicker and then the converter locks.
 
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Old Jul 5, 2014 | 12:32 PM
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Thanks for all the info. Is there anything else that should be done when I have trans out I dropped the pan and had no metal in the pan and the fluid was in pretty good shape wasn't burnt.
 
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