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Stay with a stock convertor unless you have a modified engine. The higher stall generates more heat, cuts fuel economy and isn't really made to pull a heavy pick-up from a standing start.
why do you suspect converter failure? especially if you also suspect the solenoid pack has failed?
if your getting the converter slip code,first suspect the solenoid pack plug,next the solenoid pack.how did you test and condemn the pack?
im suspecting your getting the converter slip code,but if it's unrelated to hard parts and you toss parts at it in an attempt to fix it,a new/reman converter and pack won't resolve the issue if they're not bad in the first place.
Stay with a stock convertor unless you have a modified engine. The higher stall generates more heat, cuts fuel economy and isn't really made to pull a heavy pick-up from a standing start.
A higher stall converter in an E4OD doesn't really affect fuel economy or cause high trans temps because it is still a lock-up converter.
why do you suspect converter failure? especially if you also suspect the solenoid pack has failed?
if your getting the converter slip code,first suspect the solenoid pack plug,next the solenoid pack.how did you test and condemn the pack?
im suspecting your getting the converter slip code,but if it's unrelated to hard parts and you toss parts at it in an attempt to fix it,a new/reman converter and pack won't resolve the issue if they're not bad in the first place.
I agree with this...
How did the OP determine the converter is bad or come to the conclusion the solenoid pack is bad?
Ford re - designed the connector in 1995 for a reason: the old design is prone to moisture and dirt infiltration.
I dropped the pan removed the pack and ohmed out the solenoids they checked out fine. The only problem I had was the pack came apart in pieces just want make that right. And the converter I want to replace just because when I drop the transmission to replace the converter seal I might as well do the converter.
A higher stall converter in an E4OD doesn't really affect fuel economy or cause high trans temps because it is still a lock-up converter.
But it won't lock up in stop and go driving… and they will heat up especially if you carry any kind of load. These are daily drivers we are talking about here...
I've been driving around with a 3000 stall converter for nearly 6 years and I've never ran into that issue, daily driven and at the track (and I pull a trailer to the track at times). It actually acts more stock-like that you would think under normal driving conditions. The stock converter is just a single disk lock-up type which is prone to clutch slippage over time which can increase heat and eventually take out the rest of the transmission, where as a multi-disk lock up is much stronger than stock. The higher stall speed allows the motor to stall closer to its peak torque which will allow the it to perform better under heavy load. I've noticed that a stock stall converter can cause the motor to 'lug' a little more when under load as well. Mine seems to allow the motor to spool up to get to speed quicker and then the converter locks.
Thanks for all the info. Is there anything else that should be done when I have trans out I dropped the pan and had no metal in the pan and the fluid was in pretty good shape wasn't burnt.