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How do you get the Fuel return line lose so I can change the Thermostat. I try to get it lose. But will not come off.
I changing the coolant, and went I drain, using the 2 block plug and the radiator I'm only about 4 gallon where is the other 3 gallon.
You will always have a fair amount of hold-up. You can get more out if you drain / blow-out the heater system (heater core and heater hoses). Also, you can got some more out by disconnecting the lower radiator hose (vs just opening the radiator drain).
Are you talking about the roughly half-moon shaped bracket sitting on the studs for the t-stat housing? That's the early EBP sensor mount, just pull up and it'll come off the studs and sit out of the way until you button it back up. Put the studs all the way back in, and only remove the nuts that hold the bracket on. The closest fuel line is the return from the regulator cover, and you should clear that after removing the studs by taking the hose off at the radiator and lifting the entire hose/t-stat housing out in one piece.
So no dice on removing the Thermostat could get the back nut off holding the EBP bracket. the thermostat is working, So I did a 3 day water flush 21 gallon distill water
last night at work I drained and fill with red coolant. So this morning My ECT is 166-170, and ECT 201.
So no dice on removing the Thermostat could get the back nut off holding the EBP bracket. the thermostat is working, So I did a 3 day water flush 21 gallon distill water
last night at work I drained and fill with red coolant. So this morning My ECT is 166-170, and ECT 201.
Well Maybe but I could see my temp change as it open and closed while I was on just water. Maybe it dozen like red coolant. have to work on the Thermostat removal. have a new on hand.
How do you get the Fuel return line lose so I can change the Thermostat. I try to get it lose. But will not come off.
I changing the coolant, and went I drain, using the 2 block plug and the radiator I'm only about 4 gallon where is the other 3 gallon.
I had the same problem I couldn't get a socket over the top of the stud because there was no gap between the top of the stud and the fuel line..
Here is what I did..
Follow the fuel line down and there is a clamp mounted to the front of the engine that holds the line on. Loosen that bolt, I also removed that same fuel line from the fuel filter housing and that allowed me to rotate/shift that fuel line to get enough room on top of the stat stud..
I used a "wobble" extension on my rachet to get it on the deep socket..
Once you start moving things it's easy..
I'm doing ok, the is truck is good at 185K, just rushy on parts like the drain plug had to use and easy out to change to valves. and it just hard to work on the truck sitting on the ground.
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