I had decided it was time to change out my injectors in my 1993 F350. They were still grey and I have 190,000 miles on the clock plus a very noticeable miss.

Last night I decided to tear into the project. It did not look like a bad job so I went for it. I was able to change out all 4 injectors on the left hand side before I threw in the towel. I fired up the engine only to find all 4 were dumping fuel out the new return fuel line kit. I had my doubts during installation as the caps fit loosely over the injectors. I used the o-rings my injectors came with. I removed all the stuff and used the o-rings that came with the kit. Still dumping fuel. I then tried to re-use the old factory caps with slightly better luck.

Then this morning I get up a 430 to finish the right side and mess up the threads on the brass adaptor on #1 injector and cracked the nut for the line fitting. I was able to clean up the threads with a tap/die combo and I welded the crack on the nut to it would not split any more.

I went to my local Navistar dealer to get factory caps and they quit selling them long time ago so off to Napa to buy a kit as I needed to get my pickup running again. This kit was better but still not what I had hoped for. So off to my tool box to dig out my o-rings from my days as a tech at the Caterpillar dealers. I found 16 o-rings that were for Cat engines and made a nice snug fit in the cap. Off came all the return caps, new o-rings installed and perfect no more leaks!

Engine runs way better now, miss is gone I am happy to be back on the road again!

What a pain in the *** project that took way to much time.

Jeff

 

that's how it goes sometimes Jeff.we've all been there.wont be your last nightmare with old Betsy either i doubt lol.

here is what i use for injector install kits:
(older engines use 7135-274)

+


dash size 111

+

petroleum jelly


when fitting the lines back on,never use a wrench to start the nuts.always fingers first.just grab the line with pliers and wiggle it around as you start the nut with your fingers.
that little adapter though.yeah it is down in a tight spot there behind the filter mount cross brace.i see how that got ya.
well the end results are good.that's what matters in the end.

 

I've had the same problem every time I change them. Twist the caps back and forth after you get it all the way down. I think this allows the oring to move and get seated good and not have pressures still on it from you pushing it down.

I was changing the injectors on a 2mo set of return line caps when I broke one of the caps taking it off the injector. Only place with them in stock was ford who sold them individually so I went a pick it up and got an extra one just in case.

The Ford caps fit a lot tighter than any of the other aftermarket ones I had ever bought. They didn't leak at all. I might have to go back to the stealer ship for my next set. I think they were $7 or $8 each so its not cheap.

 

I've found that High-temp wheel bearing grease seems to do the trick for me -- I just slather it on /everything/, then put the cap on, wiggle it a bit, and hook it up.
It's worked amazingly well, for some reason.
I used to use Vasoline before for the same purpose, and always had leaking problems for the first while after installing them; after using this grease, I've had no more issues. It just doesn't leak right from the get-go.
Oh, and even after a couple of months in the truck, I pull the cap and there's still grease there, outside where the O-rings would be. Which makes me think that it helps the seal due to not melting/evaporating at the higher engine temps.

 

I got the return line kit today. I am assuming you throw away the orings in the kit and use the viton 111.

 

yeah.

 

whats wrong with the O-rings that come with the kits? Will they not work correctly?


In the picture below where is this fuel line going? What is the canister looking thing in front of glow plug relay and can I remove it to give more access to things?



In this picture this was on top of my injector (on passenger side close to fuel filter) Do I need to put it back? It looks like an extender not sure why it's there?




Thank you
Michael

 

That canister is the CDR valve that regulates the blow by back into the intake so the gasses can be burned. It is held on there by two bolts and will come right off.

That brass extended piece is for the timing tool that clamps on to that injector line. Some use a regular old gas engine timing light with a pulse adapter to set timing on the injection pump and ford made a special tool for timing these engines. It will need to go back on as the injector line will not get back on with out really bending it and tweeking it.

As for the o-rings, I beleive the Viton ones last longer than the ones in the kit, better materials. As for me I found the caps and o-rings supplied in the kit fit my injectors like Sh## and caused more leaks than what I had prior. The OEM Ford/Navistar caps are the only way to go. I am about ready to order one for the front right corner as I can not get it to stop leaking. It is such a SH### design in my opinion.

Jeff