Leakdown tees
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Freshman User
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 32
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Leakdown tees
Are the leakdown tees on the top of the injectors necessary? My 91 F-250 7.3 has two that leak. I have replaced the o-rings but they still leak someone said the entire system had to be replaced I found a kit with new fuel line, o-rings, clamps and new tees for $35. I was wondering if the line were capped off to the fuel filter tower would this make a difference or do I need to buy the kit.
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 5,638
Likes: 1
From: Manitoba
Get the kit, the plastic caps will distort over time and any disturbance of the cap will cause a leak.
Here is my how to....
First disconnect injector cap nuts, "do not bend lines" but move them away enough to get the return line caps off as a complete set per side.
After removal of the complete return cap and lines sets, build new sets identical. To remove old orings use a dental or oring pick with a razor knife, do not mark the injector body. When installing orings use lots of grease and roll first one into top groove, then roll second over that to bottom groove. When installing the new lines and caps use grease inside the cap and on orings, place them on respective injectors and gently push straight down until it pops into place on the orings. Install the line capnuts 22ftlbs torque. There should be a small space between the return cap and line capnut when finished, any major leaks mean caps are not seated or orings are cut or line cap nut is not tight. I have done two sets lately and found bleeding 1-2 injectors at a time on opposite side the best, place fuel pedal to floor and fast idle and timing advance on, crank for 15 seconds, mine started after 4th injector was on line.
Note when cranking engine and bleeding there will only be a slight amount of fuel/bubbles seen, no major squirting gysers, that only happens with engine running at idle RPM.
Here is my how to....
First disconnect injector cap nuts, "do not bend lines" but move them away enough to get the return line caps off as a complete set per side.
After removal of the complete return cap and lines sets, build new sets identical. To remove old orings use a dental or oring pick with a razor knife, do not mark the injector body. When installing orings use lots of grease and roll first one into top groove, then roll second over that to bottom groove. When installing the new lines and caps use grease inside the cap and on orings, place them on respective injectors and gently push straight down until it pops into place on the orings. Install the line capnuts 22ftlbs torque. There should be a small space between the return cap and line capnut when finished, any major leaks mean caps are not seated or orings are cut or line cap nut is not tight. I have done two sets lately and found bleeding 1-2 injectors at a time on opposite side the best, place fuel pedal to floor and fast idle and timing advance on, crank for 15 seconds, mine started after 4th injector was on line.
Note when cranking engine and bleeding there will only be a slight amount of fuel/bubbles seen, no major squirting gysers, that only happens with engine running at idle RPM.
More Turbo
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 743
Likes: 2
From: MI -- farmboy
you got to have the return caps. This is how the extra fuel is used to lubricate the injector and is then returned to the filter hsg. The kit is easy to get and easy to change. Maybe an hour at the most to do this, nothing fancy involved, but make sure you lube the orings and do not use wormgear style clamps.
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