Temp gauge
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 161
Likes: 0
Temp gauge
I don't think my temp gauge is working. I found there was a wire cut in two that looked like it was coming from a sending unit to the temp gauge so I thought, well this will be an easy fix. I put the wire back together and got nothing. I put a test light on the end of the cut wire and found that it had power. My test light would flash with the key on. Have no idea where this wire goes! Thought for sure it went to that temp gauge sending unit!
MSEE
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 10,386
Likes: 35
From: Austin, TX
RED with WHITE stripe is for the temperature gauge. A blinking light is indicative of the ICVR upstream.
As a general rule, never connect wires together because they "seem" like they should go together. Always fully understand what you're doing. I've seen some bad dash fires from that very thing.
As a general rule, never connect wires together because they "seem" like they should go together. Always fully understand what you're doing. I've seen some bad dash fires from that very thing.
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 161
Likes: 0
One more idea/suggestion that I don't think I was clear on my first post. The wires I am talking about are not under the dash but out under the hood by the fan. There is a sending unit just to the left of the thermostat and kind of behind the alternator. This unit had a little wire boot with about an inch of severed wire on it. Then, on the wires that are running against the front of the thermostat there is a brown wire that is also been severed. This brown wire is the one blinking with a test light. Where does this wire go? I think I understand the ICVR upstream but don't understand what this brown wire is supposed to power. All I know is my temp gauge isn't working and I would like it to be working since we are in the 90's now! Thanks for the advise everyone!
MSEE
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 10,386
Likes: 35
From: Austin, TX
The only BROWN wire in the vehicle is the hot-in-start ignition bypass. It should have full battery voltage when cranking, and back-fed coil power in RUN. It should never blink and has nothing to do with the temperature gauge. You may be looking at a previous owner hackjob.
The factory temperature gauge is useless anyway. You're better off with an aftermarket mechanical gauge. If you're interested in restoring the factory gauge just for kicks, my original explanation still stands.
The factory temperature gauge is useless anyway. You're better off with an aftermarket mechanical gauge. If you're interested in restoring the factory gauge just for kicks, my original explanation still stands.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
alvald83
1967 - 1972 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks
1
Jul 23, 2012 08:32 AM
