I know there are a lot of threads about gear boxes for our dents but I was wondering how hard it is to replace the stock gear box with a red head gear box. I sucked it up and spent the money on a good quality gear box because I only want to do this once, but can someone please help me out as to how to replace the box. It is a 1978 ford f150 2wd with power steering. I also need to replace the power steering pump, if someone can help direct me in a good quality pump too it would be greatly appreciated. Also if anyone has had experience with a redhead box please leave a comment on how you like it, have heard nothing but good things about them but just want to make sure I got the best quality one

 

For replacing the box, it's darn simple and a very good time to check the condition of the rest of your steering components; like the rag joint that likely has never been replaced or inspected.

The stickiest part will be getting a pitman arm off if you dont have a puller: Get a puller! Then, index the arm in the same direction on your new box. I think the arm can go on 4 ways; not only is it important to make sure it goes on the correct way, but it's pretty easy as well. Impact tools are nice to have for removing the pitman arm retaining nut, but I've done it several times with regular hand tools.

The rest of it is bolt in. The steering shaft may take a little persuasion to collapse so you can move it out of the way. Installation is the reverse of removal. There are some threads with "Tricks," about bleeding the steering system but I've never needed them. Just keep the fluid topped off and turn the wheels back and forth is all I've never needed to do, but if you DO have problems bleeding, the solutions range from jacking the front end up and turning the wheels to removing the box and tilting it to get air out.

For torques I couldn't find actual reference for my 79 so I went off the chart here.

For your steering pump, maybe you should check out some of the Saginaw pump replacement threads. I never looked back after doing mine and it was very simple. I think it's worth the effort of finding or building brackets to have something reliable.

My experience with Redhead boxes has been nothing but positive. Mine works, doesn't leak and has no slack. It was the final part of my steering system that had any slop.

 

A redheaded saginaw

 

Thank you very much for the help! Where should I look to get a Saginaw pump at? I looked up the part number and even found a thread on here but I can't find one anywhere. Here is the thread I found if someone would be kind enough to help me fine one or know where I should look to get one it would be greatly appreciated.

 

What motor are you running ?

edit : I read your profile it's a 302

You can find them in econoline vans with a 302 and some cars ..

I'm not sure if it's all there .. might be missing a spacer and some step bolts that go into the timing cover

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ford-302-351-Saginaw-Power-Steering-Pump-Pulley-And-Bracket-Hotrod-Ratrod-/281369279267?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4182ea7b23&vxp=mtr
There is this option also

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ford-289-302-351W-Saginaw-Power-Steering-Bracket-Billet-Aluminum-SBF-/121132552769?pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1c34101241&vxp=mtr
Also if we can get Numbers Dummy to list the part numbers for say a 77 econoline with a 302 you could look for availability in NOS .. I did find some of the missing parts I needed for mine that way ..

 

So I should get that pump, or one identical like it, and that bracket if I want to do it right and make it easy? Sorry for the stupid questions, just trying to make sure I am doing this right, I have learned might as well spend a little more on good quality parts or parts that fix old problems, compared to multiple sucky parts. Also should I get any other parts on install while I have the steering pulled apart like pitman arm, or rag joint? Just or a safe call so I don't have to do it later?

 

Also would a 1989 or a 1992 ford van with a 302 motor's pump work, I read that these should be a Saginaw because of what year it is, but my question is what should I look for to make sure it is a Saginaw pump? Is it just the design that makes it called a Saginaw?

 

The general answer is to look at the shape of the reservoir on the pump. Not all Saginaw pumps had the "Canned ham," style reservoirs, but I dont think any of the CII pumps that youre trying to replace had those.

These pump have a TON of options involved with them. The size of the pressure port, the flow rate, the bypass pressure, the reservoir shape and number of mounting holes, if they had a remote reservoir or not...there are a TON of options.

For your application, any of the pumps should work, just be aware that there are some options out there. The most relevant to most of the swaps is the pressure port and weather it's metric or SAE. They swap back and forth, so if you get the wrong one from a bone yard, it's not a deal breaker; just head back and get a new port with a 1" (I think) wrench.

IF you get a junk yard unit, you can re-seal the whole thing in a day with a pretty cheap parts kit. It's a little messy, but easy and will save you from a leak later on.

 

I am about to replace my gear box and was wondering if someone could tell me what size socket I need for the nut that holds the pitman arm to the box?

 

1975 and later Econolines use the Saginaw P/S pump. It's the same for 300 I-6/302/351W/460.

302 re-introduced along with E100 in 1979. E100's and 302's were not offered between 1975/78 in Econolines.

1969/74 E100/300 240/300/302 have Power Assist P/S, use a different P/S pump.
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Beginning in 1978: FoMoCo changed the P/S pump on everything (except Econolines and 1978/79 cars with Hydro-Boost that also use the Saginaw pump).

New pump has a plastic reservoir, is a different shape than the 1965/77 pumps that have a steel reservoir.

Plastic P/S reservoir pump: P/S pressure hose connects to the pump w/a qwik connect fitting. 1965/77 steel reservoir pump: P/S pressure hose threads onto pump.