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OKay thanks for the input guys. I went ahead and just bought a reman Uremco 7-7583. But now im confounded. Its a direct fit but im missing some things on my new carb that were on the old, and have some new things that were not on my old motorcraft. I have a place for a wire to attach to the top of my old one, not on my new, I have a place to attach a wire on my new thermostat, not my old. I have a empty line coming from unter my choke pull off, no idea where it goes and I have added parts to my throttle pump that I don't know their purpose! ill try to post pics but not sure if I can. Need some help
was something attached here on my old carb? why is it not on my new one?
electric choke on the one on left .. Run wire with Spade female connector to stator on alternator
I am having hard time IDing other pics if you can make them bigger that would help .. I am thinking one is an emissions carb and the other is not (old one) ..The emissions carb has provision for connection from top of carb bowl to charcoal canister .. No worries if you don't have it on your truck but if you do it would be passenger side of radiator.. just put a vacuum cap over the spout coming out the top of the bowl if you don't have it ..
awesome thank you! your right...emissions. have it capped, going now to get the alt wire. any ideas where I can het the heater choke line. Parts store is confused and said they don't know what im talking about. thanks
That new carburetor is incorrect for the application, but can be made to work.
The item in the first picture is an idle compensator trigger. When the under-hood temperature increases, a bimetallic strip opens to lean out the mix and increase the idle speed, which ever-so-slightly increases water pump throughput, and helps cool the engine. If it's gone on the new carburetor, that's no problem.
As RR said, the second picture is the electric-assist. You can swap the old choke cap if you want.
The third picture is the bowl vent to the purge valve. Just leave it open on the new carburetor so that it can vent. DO NOT CAP IT. It's not a vacuum connection.
For the choke line a 2 foot piece of 14 gauge stranded automotive wire and a female spade connector for 14 gauge wire
Plus a ring connector for 14 gauge wire and an eye big enough to slip on the threaded stator post on the alternator .. You'll remove the nut on stator post first of course
Use the crimper at the auto parts store if you don't have one
@FMC400 The carb bowl still has a vent with the emissions bowl vent capped does it not ? otherwise that which is supposed to vent to the purge valve is venting to the engine compartment since it's not inside the air cleaner ring ..
The third picture is the bowl vent to the purge valve. Just leave it open on the new carburetor so that it can vent. DO NOT CAP IT. It's not a vacuum connection.
@FMC400 The carb bowl still has a vent with the emissions bowl vent capped does it not ? otherwise that which is supposed to vent to the purge valve is venting to the engine compartment since it's not inside the air cleaner ring ..
That's a good question. All carbs with and without the front-facing vent have the two vent towers alongside the carburetor throat regardless; but I'm not sure that the vents are actually punched open for those that do have the front-facing bowl vent (otherwise what would be the point). But if the vent towers are in fact punched open, then I agree the best thing to do would be to cap the forward vent.
That's a good question. All carbs with and without the front-facing vent have the two vent towers alongside the carburetor throat regardless; but I'm not sure that the vents are actually punched open for those that do have the front-facing bowl vent (otherwise what would be the point). But if the vent towers are in fact punched open, then I agree the best thing to do would be to cap the forward vent.
I just happen to have a carb with the front vent torn apart in the kitchen (yes I have a great wife). The two tower vents are open, and I believe are open on all carbs, as this is how I put gas in bowl when trying to prime.
I just happen to have a carb with the front vent torn apart in the kitchen (yes I have a great wife). The two tower vents are open, and I believe are open on all carbs, as this is how I put gas in bowl when trying to prime.
Good deal. In that case I retract my previous statement and would recommend capping the secondary vent as RR describes. That lets the bowl vent into the air cleaner but not the engine compartment.
great ! 
