It's been two long years but I finally have my truck in my driveway. Some of you regular posters may recall me buzzing around the forum every once in a while asking questions and saying I can't even work on my truck. Well, as a graduation present, my family towed it to my place in Oregon all the way from Sequim, WA.

I just took up a job at a local auto shop so once I get registered and insured I'll be able to take it to work and work on it. First thing I need to swap out the split rims and mount my new rear-view mirror. I got so excited tonight I went ahead and fixed the horn. I tried cleaning all contact points for a sure-ground with no luck, so I went ahead and replaced the horn relay. BEEEEEEP!

My original mirror is 10" but my grandparents ordered me a $10 8" replacement from LMC. I think I'll roll with that for now, as it seems too much trouble to return it and get the right one, just need the glue. A mirror's a mirror to me at this point; I just wanna get on the road!

I also need to figure out my leak issue. I was certain that I had a tranny pan leak (C6 Auto.), but after sitting another two years (being started periodically) my dipstick reads full, cold (when it's hot it expands, correct? So do I have too much ATF in?). Anyways, I was told it leaked ATF where I had it parked but I'm starting to question it. We'll see.



New Relay installed


Soon I'll be rebuilding the carb and most likely replacing the trans pan gasket and filter

 

good job.

 

Got you out of the house and that ugly truck out of my sight all in one sweep.

ATF is red, used oil is black. If you have the FE engine 360/390 it is likely leaking from the rear of the intake and or valve covers. Check your stain color. Keep a pan under it.


John

 

Yeah it's got a pan for the time being in the driveway. I have to get some more type F still but I'm going to replace the trans. pan gasket soon. Going to drain the Torque Converter and fill 'er up with 12 quarts.

I'm also going to make a trip to see a Craigslist guy about a used radiator since mine is leaking. I have another thread about that whole fiasco.

 

Congrats. Glad to hear you got it where you can touch it and get your fix of Bump. Carefull with the 12 quarts though. You're doing a drain and fill. Not a complete tear down and wipe clean.

 

How do you go about draining the torque converter? Different than just pulling the pan?

 

Rews2, turn the TC until you see what is basically a drain bolt. I believe it is called a drain bung or something like that. Should be on the side facing the engine, but could be on the outer diameter

 

Yep. Exactly. T/Q is bolted to the flex plate (flywheel). Flex plate is bolted to the crankshaft. So to turn the T/Q you can move either the flex plate or the crankshaft from the front.

 

Thanks to both guys. I have a drip leak and want to switch out the pan gasket and do the filter too. Had a buddy tell me he torqued down his pan bolts too much and bent the pan so want to check my pan too.
Figure it can't hurt to replace all the fluid so why not drain the torque convertor at the same time.

 

Exactly what I was thinking

 

All steel pans & valve covers will bend the bolt hole area by over tightening the bolts.

If it has the aluminum pan or v-covers you'll crack the bolt whole area..

This is why everything has a torque rating: Right!

Orich

 

Yeah...yeah. Man I hate when I give too many details and it comes back on me. My major flaw is I "believe" that I know better than a torque wrench how tight it should be.
What's the old saying..."true insanity is doing the same thing and expecting different results"

 

Sounds like Washington D.C.
I've always used some brains,a palm ratchet,and my wrist as a torque wrench on pans and valve covers. Just snugging up the bolts. Then go back over the bolts a 1/2 hour later. Works every time.

 

For a mirror, I highly recommend a 12" parabolic clip on. I had/have an 8" mirror, and I clipped the 12" on over it. I can see EVERYTHING out the back.

They are cheap at the parts stores, and better than anything else IMO.