Yuuup... "Last in, First out". The dolly is placed behind the lowest part of the dent and the dent is hammered along the perimeter while applying pressure on the dolly to coaks the dent out. This is the "hammer-off" technique.

Light hammering is all it takes so don't get in a hurry... the metal needs to be slowly persuaded back to its originally stamped position. Avoid yelling at it!

 

HIO Silver,
I was reading a different build thread where you said to use Bon Ami to clean the orange rust off. All I had was Bar Keepers Friend, same thing. Wow. That worked great. The only real tough stuff was the lower portion of the panel. I used the scotch brite with the powder and it came off easily. Now seeing the box seam all cleaned up, I want to wire wheel it and re-seal it.

 

Frame is all rust proofed. I am glad that part is over with.


Now to replace the throw out bearing so that the clutch fork will stay in.
I think removing the motor will be easier than removing the tranny and front diff.

Anything else in the bell housing that should be replaced while I have it opened up?

 

Yuuup. I learned that from David Freiburger of Hot Rod Magazine. 'Glad you found it useful.

 

The T/O bearing is not what retains the fork. There is an angle bracket in there that the fork pivots on. And a specially shaped .067" spring wire that retains the fork to that angle bracket.
The part number for the spring was C6AZ7562A.
The part number for the bracket was B9AZ7522A. Which was replaced by B9AZ7522B. These brackets came with new rivets but mechanics always used aftermarket taper headed screws and nuts.
Here are some companies which show as having both the bracket and spring. Call them and get your best price. Parts AND shipping.
Mustangs Etc. in CA.........818-787-7634.
Antique Auto Supply in TX....817-275-2381.
Green Sales in OH............800-543-4959.
Dennis Carpenter Ford in NC...704-786-8139.
Parts International in TX........972-241-8730.
Macdonald Obsolete in IN.......812-359-4965.

 

I thought that the tips of the clutch fork went under the S shaped clips on the back of the TO bearing? The clutch fork has two 1/4" holes (1 on top and one on the bottom) that the pivot nubs go through? And then the clutch pedal return spring pulls the outer end of the fork forward into the adjustment rod?

 

Those do hold the bearing and fork together. But they don't hold the forK in the bell housing per se. I found these pics. You can thank that gentleman for posting them in the past.
*
*
<TABLE id=post7123933 class=tborder border=0 cellSpacing=1 cellPadding=6 width="100%" align=center><TBODY><TR><TD style="PADDING-BOTTOM: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 0px; PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-TOP: 0px" class=alt2><TABLE border=0 cellSpacing=6 cellPadding=0 width="100%"><TBODY><TR><TD noWrap>wickedinhere ******** type=text/javascript> vbmenu_register("postmenu_7123933", true); *********>
Senior User

</TD><TD width="100%"></TD><TD vAlign=top noWrap>Join Date: Aug 2008
Posts: 297




</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE><!-- / user info --></TD></TR><TR><TD id=td_post_7123933 class=alt1><!-- message, attachments, sig --><!-- message -->Here are some pics of the spring on the fork i guess this is how it goes still not sure its not quite on there but when i give it a little push it goes in place. It holds and with the boot and throw out bearing installed it cant go any where i hope.



</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>

 

Thanks for the help guys. So here is what has happened this week.

Went to separate the tranny and transfer case to make it easier to lift. I separated it at the wrong spot and loosened up the output shaft which caused the main shaft to slip backwards and the pilot bearings to fall out from the inner end of the input shaft. Now I was in deep doo doo. Finished separating the transfer case and removed the transmission. When I removed the throwout bearing, the end of the input shaft bearing retainer cover came off as well. The broken surfaces were very dirty so I am thinking that this has been broken for a long time.

Took the tranny to a friends shop and within an hour and a half, we had everything back in place, the top cover on and shifting it through all of the gears. I ordered a new input bearing retainer cover and input shaft seal.

On one hand, I feel like a dip wad for messing with something I shouldn't have, but on the other hand, glad I found a broken piece because of it.

 

. I haven't heard dip wad in decades! Ha Ha! Thanks for the laugh. I am glad also you tried. AND found that. Most times it is good to travel the unknown,accomplish your goal,learn from it, and kick back with a celebration . Not quite as eloquent as Hio did on another thread but you get my point. Good Job D & D.

 

Transmission is all back together, new input bearing cover, seal, throw out bearing, anti rattle spring, and gaskets.

With 3 guys, it slipped right into place. My son and I lifted it and positioned it on the guide pins and the neighbor started a couple of bolts for us.

It took me the rest of the day to put in the rear support, transfer case, hook up the drive shafts, 4x4 linkages, add fluid, clean up spilled fluid, install starter, and clean it up a little.

Tomorrow -
Make new reverse light cable because it's fraying in two places
Install exhaust
Cut hole in my new floor pan for the E-brake cable
Hopefully bolting the cab and box to the frame
Then I can clean up the garage and bench to lay out and organize the boxes of parts to install.

 

Decided to sand and paint my shifter and **** before mounting the cab.

So I go to mount the cab and I have the mount kit from DC. I have the correct number of parts, but the bolts for the back mounts are too short. They are flush with the bottom of the sleeve and don't protrude lower than the bushing. I even had my son stand in the cab to try and compress the bushings but I can't even get the nut started.

The bolts for the front are the same length as the rear but the shoulder of the bolt is too long and doesn't allow the nut to tighten up the bushings.


When I get the correct bolts and go to tighten up the mounts, how much do you compress the bushings?

 

I bought 7/16 -14 x 3" bolts for the front and 7/16 -14 x 5" bolts for the rear and got that thing mounted. I did have to cut the front sleeves almost 1/2". According to my measurements, I am dead nuts on left to right. I feel that this alone is my shining moment on this truck mainly because of never having done any metal work before.

Other things done
-painted instrument panel (sanded with 320 and scotch brite pad. 3 coats of primer, 2 coats of black and clear coat) Mixed and matched the better bezel, plastic and gauges. I prefer the Oil and Alt gauges vs the idiot lights.
-buffed panel plastic (wet sanded with 1200 grit and used 6" buffing wheel on my drill to buff. I went too hard too fast in some spots which bubbled the plastic so I had to re-sand)
-painted stick shift (sanded with 320, 3 coats of primer 2 coats of black and clear coat)
-cleaned up cab and front of box with the abrasive powder
-mounted box (that is one heavy sumnabeotch) I told my son the last heavy lifting is when we mount the hood.
-went through the wiring harness (really good shape actually)
-rear wiring - there were so many cut and twisted spots that I decided to cut them all out and splice in one piece. All I have left to do on this is tap into the brown wire for the license plate lights.
-piled up pieces to be cleaned and painted (tunnel cover, cab mount covers, and 4x4 shifter)

 

lUUKING GOOOD. But the truck's wiring is different between gauges and idiot lights.

 

Amazing what a can of paint and a couple of hours can do.

 

I did not know that. I had to look through my pictures and did find that the harness I am using is the one that went with the instrument cluster with gauges. The only wires that I can't find are the ones for the Temp, Alt, and Oil.