All,
I have a 1990 E-250 Van (Project Van sat for a long while (7yrs) but runs good now) that I have replaced the Battery, Alternator, and External Voltage Regulator (new Autozone/Oreilleys) in the last 2 years. Battery was first and Voltage regulator and Alternator was replaced as a pair. The regulator was purchased at Autozone and Alternator at Oreilleys. Oreilleys did not have a regulator in stock.

I have not really had this vehicle on the road much (1100 miles in 2 years) as I was working out the performance issues.

Now that it runs good, I am trying to work out the un-successful attempt at getting the charging system to work properly. As it never has worked properly for me. (Van battery runs down just driving no lights-heat/cool fan-excessive drain after a while).

Anyways is there a specific way to identify what is not working? (Need the troubleshooting steps).

I can tell you the cables look good and they tighten down on the battery fine but I kind of questioning why its not charging and I am considering replacing them as it is the only thing left. (Never has a problem starting assuming battery is charged)

I have a few multi-meters and am versed in Ohms law...Can I test for 13.8-14.2 Volts at the battery when the van is running?

Thanks,
Chris

 

Yes.... but do this: Check battery voltage BEFORE starting, have someone else start the vehicle and check it during the start. Again after the starter has shut down and again after the engine has come up to operating temps. If it is still measuring 13.8-14v after this, wait another 15 minutes (keep it running) check it again. Report back with your measurements.

 

BPofMD,
Before Start 12.97 Volts
During Start 11.97-12.2 Volts (Bounced Around Lowest was 11.97 - Starts fast)
After Initial Start RPM Drop - 12.37 Volts
After 5 minutes in - 12.32 Volts
After 15 minutes - 12.28 Volts
After Everything off - Key Out - 12.57

Thanks,
Chris

 

Definitely not charging. Do you have the type alternator with the large stud on the back with a fat wire hooked to this stud? Or do you have the type that has two plug-ins, and one of them has two fat wires going to the plug? Tell us which one you have, and also with the engine off, key off, take your meter and try to take a voltage reading at the large terminal or the plug with the two fat wires. You should get battery voltage. If you don't, the fusible link in this wire(s) is blown out.

 

So you have a G1 ALT with an external voltage regulator (VR)? on a 1990?

I would have thought it would have been a G2 ALT with an internal VR.
Does it have a plug in connector on the ALT?
BTW it is not charging, you can also turn on the headlights at idle, it will most likely drop a little more under load.
Jim

 

All,
The van is actually a 1991.....

The way the alternator is in the Van I cannot see the backside of it. (No Way to get a voltage meter on it)

I can tell you the Voltage regulator is up front of the battery. (metal box)

I have a brand new extra regulator. Thinking of swapping it out to see if any difference.

If not I will pull the alternator again and run it in and have it tested on the bench....Think that will help?

Not sure if relevant,,,If needed please walk me through the steps to confirm wiring etc.....Might be able to do that easier if I pull the alternator?

Thanks,
Chris

 

Confirmation on the lights it dropped a very small amount of voltage.

Honestly could not tell you the connectors anymore. I know the regulator is up front of the battery. I had the guy at Oreilley's match it up and I R&R (Remove & Replaced) it. Do not remember extra wires etc.

Looking at Oreiley's web site, not sure of the unit...but then again I bought this alternator in 2012. The alternator is a serpentine belt, lifetime warrantied....Looking at the listing there are none with a external regulator...I think I am going to give them a call this morning.

I replaced the alternator/regulator when I replaced the cooling system. The alternator from memory is not hard to remove but getting behind it is about impossible.

Thanks,
Chris

 

This is something you really need to check, if you did not pull the battery cable when you swapped the ALT and the power post on the ALT touched GRD it would melt the fuseable link.
Jim

 

JimsRebel,
I could really use a wiring diagram...Does anyone happen to have one?...

I know I did remove the battery cable as I about took everything off the front of the engine area to get to water pump, water pump clutch, fan, radiator etc. This is not saying though it was not bad before I started as it did not work then.

I am guessing here, no schematic, but is it the wire going from back of alternator to the Starter? If so, Couldn't I just test continuity of the wire from the ends?

If I remember from my Auto Tech Electronics class that you must have voltage going to the alternator and a wire to pass electric back to the battery. Most cars I have done do this through the starter bolt.

Thanks for the help,
Chris

 

All,
Installed the new regulator and there was no change in charging.

Pulled the Alternator and ran the alternator in for testing. The Alternator came back fine...tested 3 times to confirm. (3 separate machine tests in each testing)

So I am at wiring at this point.

Looking things over (getting dark/late) my guess, also as someone has mentioned, that there is a bad fuse-able link...Maybe because the large bolt cover is missing on the back of the alternator.....?....May have to figure someway to cover.

For what its worth the alternator I have is;
Ultima® 01-0159 - Alternator | O'Reilly Auto Parts

I found my Factory Service Manual - Electrical...Looking in the manual page 12-2 I will start testing in the morning.

Thanks everyone,
Chris

 

There is a fusible link usually in the charge wire. What you can do is take your meter and put it on ohms (Rx1 scale) and touch the meter leads to together to make sure it's working. Then with the alternator out, the battery + cable off, take one meter lead and touch it to the battery cable + clamp that's hanging in the air, and take the other meter lead and touch it to the alternator charge wire, the fat one. You should have continuity, this is how the alternator is connected to the battery for charging.

P.S. I just looked at the O Reilly's link, the output wire will be hooked to the terminal with the orange plastic around it.

 

All,
Checked Continuity of all wires and the one wire (put the battery in) I checked voltage from the key turning on and then of course no voltage when off. Everything passed, at least initially...I did the voltage test as the field wire tested initially (continuity wise) was one time low resistance and the second time high. It passed voltage so I started looking at the connections closer (explain the resistance change) and I noticed the field wire (the one with the condenser) looked very orangey / rusty.

So I thought I would remove the wire from connector (easy enough) and one side literally fell apart (corrosion - rust etc) . So bought and new wire connector and clamped the two wires in it (condenser wire included) and put everything back together (new connector back in to harness connector and tested with voltmeter. Put out 14+ volts let it run a while checked it again 14 volts (Battery was a putting out 12.12 volts initially).

So I will drive it around some more but I am fairly confident this issue is corrected.

Thanks,
Chris