Voltage Regulator
Thread Starter
|
New User
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 24
Likes: 0
Voltage Regulator
90 F250 5.0. Do these trucks have an external voltage regulator or is it a part of the alternator? I can come out, start up my truck and it fires right up. If I drive it for a little while, turn it off and try to turn it back on, it won't fire. It acts as if the battery is dead. I'm guessing it's my voltage regulator because while running the alternator is charging the battery at 14.5 volts consistantly. Any help is appreciated.
Edit: Replaced the alternator, and battery. Found out the voltage reg is internal, so that was replaced as well. Same problem. Battery light is on, on the dash. Also my voltage meter is reading high, about at the 3/4 mark. No clicking when the truck won't start, it just always acts as if the battery is dead. Just a real slow chug sound. Really at a loss here. Grounds are all good too. Just replaced the negative battery cable.
Edit: Replaced the alternator, and battery. Found out the voltage reg is internal, so that was replaced as well. Same problem. Battery light is on, on the dash. Also my voltage meter is reading high, about at the 3/4 mark. No clicking when the truck won't start, it just always acts as if the battery is dead. Just a real slow chug sound. Really at a loss here. Grounds are all good too. Just replaced the negative battery cable.
Thread Starter
|
New User
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 24
Likes: 0
How would those effect the start like this? I put a new battery and alternator on today(the voltage reg is internal) and now I have the same exact problem. Truck starts cold just fine. If i run into the store and come back out, it won't start. It acts like the battery is dead. If i jumpstart it, it fires right back up. I am completely at a loss here. Please help.
Thread Starter
|
New User
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 24
Likes: 0
The voltage reg is internal on this truck unless there is another hiding somewhere. I replaced it with the alternator and no luck. A mechanic friend said it sounds like the starter or starter solenoid. Any thoughts?
Elder User
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 960
Likes: 3
From: Saint Charles, Missouri
Well, a solenoid is around $10 and it wouldnt hurt to check the starter relay, those are cheap as well
Trending Topics
Fleet Owner
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 23,667
Likes: 301
From: Easton,Ks
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
3 Best / 3 Worst Parts of Modern Ford Ownership
Brett Foote
10 Amazing Upgrades That Solve Common Ford Truck Owner Headaches
Pouria Savadkouei
Every 2026 Ford Engine Explained
Brett Foote
10 Ugly Ford Trucks That We Still Kinda Love
Joe Kucinski
10 Things Every Truck Owner NEEDS (2026 Edition)
Michael S. Palmer
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Most Expensive Ford Trucks Ever Sold on Bring a Trailer
Joe Kucinski
2027 Ford Super Duty Buyer's Guide (Every Model, Engine, & Package)
Brett Foote
Top 10 Ford Truck Tragedies
Joe Kucinski
Thread Starter
|
New User
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 24
Likes: 0
Checked with a guy that rebuilds starters and alternators and he said its the starter. Definitely not the solenoid. Apparantly they build up pressure while the truck is running, and as they go bad they won't release the pressure, which then prevents the truck from starting. Getting it rebuilt tomorrow for $15. I'll post up after.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 23,667
Likes: 301
From: Easton,Ks
If it does not click when the key is turned then it is not the starter.
Besides starters do not build up pressure.
Either you have a bad connection where the battery cable blots to the starter solenoid or a bad POS battery cable as I said above.
I do not think I would take a starter to that guy.
Besides starters do not build up pressure.
Either you have a bad connection where the battery cable blots to the starter solenoid or a bad POS battery cable as I said above.
I do not think I would take a starter to that guy.
Thread Starter
|
New User
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 24
Likes: 0
He's rebuilt a bunch for my family, and does it for a living. I've had two reputable mechanics say that it has to be the starter. I think for $15 I'll take my chances, considering all anyone keeps saying on here is that I must have bad battery cables. Bad cables would cause me to have a problem at all times, not just when the truck is warm...not to mention the cables are good, one being brand new. The starter theory makes a lot of sense if you take a minute and think about how a starter works. Like is said, I'll put my money(all $15) on a guy that rebuilds starters for a living and we personally know is reputable. A starter failing to click is not the only signs of a dead starter as well.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
kyle78f150
1973 - 1979 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks
35
Mar 23, 2014 01:45 PM
NavyMIDN08
1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks
29
Jan 5, 2010 10:06 PM
