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I have an 89 F350CCLB that still has R-12, but not enough. I'm going to replace the expansion valve and dryer.
I have FREEZE-12 and R134A. Which one should I use and how much?
Is one better than the other?
If you haven't converted it from R12 to 134a, then you can't run 134a, from what I read. Guys on the forum say R12 is much more effective at cooling, but it's more expensive. I guess it's out there somewhere.
I cleaned out the condenser and lines using brake clean followed by compressed air. Works pretty good, the only thing I wish I changed was a updated condenser for 134
I did mine last year, or rather a friend that woks at the auto parts store did it for me. Nothing was changed or replaced. The system was already totally empty he first put in a can of the proper oil then he put in 2 cans (12 oz I think) R-134. It blew cold all summer and appears to be just as cold this spring. All I had to buy was the oil and freon plus a couple of fittings to adapt the old system to the new freon hose, I spent a total of less than $35. The hose ***,y would have been another $20, but they used their own.
Went to the parts store to get the expansion valve and drier, expansion valve looked just like the computer showed but not the drier.
I went home and pulled the drier, and back to the parts store. Young kid comes up and says "what's that". I told him a receiver drier. He asks what it fits and I told him to grab the book as it's not in the computer. He asks "what book". I told him the Everco book and he was not giving me the warm fuzzies.
Anyway, the kid says he's the computer guy and didn't even know how to use the book...
I looked it up and got one ordered.
I feel sorry for this next generation that's coming up...They can't do anything if it's not point and click.
R12 isn't that expensive and you can buy it on ebay all day long. It's way less effort then trying to convert and it works a lot better cooling the truck since that's what the system is meant for. If you convert you risk causing the "black death" if the oil starts reacting with your lines. I did one conversion on a Bronco several years ago and the R134 oil started dissolving the old hoses which clogged the orifice tube multiple times.
I agree, use the freeze 12, its a blend, but ive heard good things about it as long as you dont have leaks. 134 is "alright" but not great in these rigs. My 92 is staying R-12... then again. That could also be because we have 4 bottles of R-12 still
R12 isn't that expensive and you can buy it on ebay all day long. It's way less effort then trying to convert and it works a lot better cooling the truck since that's what the system is meant for. If you convert you risk causing the "black death" if the oil starts reacting with your lines. I did one conversion on a Bronco several years ago and the R134 oil started dissolving the old hoses which clogged the orifice tube multiple times.
That's why it is extremely important to flush the AC system completely with some kind of AC flush or brake clean followed by a really clean dry compressed air to get all the old oil out. Not to mention also replacing the receiver drier will also help considering that is your filter for the AC, and most times is overlooked simply because you cannot get all the oil out of your old dryer. A good long vacuum on the system will also remove moisture... Not to mention also updating the condenser to 134A style well help the system run more efficient ( parallel flow ).. Yes you can pick up little cans of R12 here and there but still pretty $$$ considering I just checked for a 30 pound bottle and was a little over 900!.. Anyway to each his own, I have converted over hundreds of cars and trucks to 134 without having a issue. You just have to understand how both gases and liquids operate that different pressures, humidity, air temperature
That's why it is extremely important to flush the AC system completely with some kind of AC flush or brake clean followed by a really clean dry compressed air to get all the old oil out. Not to mention also replacing the receiver drier will also help considering that is your filter for the AC, and most times is overlooked simply because you cannot get all the oil out of your old dryer. A good long vacuum on the system will also remove moisture... Not to mention also updating the condenser to 134A style well help the system run more efficient ( parallel flow ).. Yes you can pick up little cans of R12 here and there but still pretty $$$ considering I just checked for a 30 pound bottle and was a little over 900!.. Anyway to each his own, I have converted over hundreds of cars and trucks to 134 without having a issue. You just have to understand how both gases and liquids operate that different pressures, humidity, air temperature
I've don't quite a few conversions and used a flush machine on this one as well. The issue with my bronco was the R12 hoses were impregnated with the mineral oil and when the R134 oil got in there it turned the hoses to mush. For all the time, trouble and expense of converting, $200 for a few cans of R12 vs $30 for R134 seems like a no brainer to me. I don't know what you bill your free time to yourself at but I price mine at about $100 to $150 an hour since I don't have much of it. If I have to spend a weekend converting a system just to save $170 or so for refrigerant I'm not going to waste my time.
Not sure on the debate about to covert or not to convert, but this is what I did. My system was empty already. I replaced the compressor and the dryer. Flushed everything extremely well. Replaced the orifice with the more expensive variable one. Vac'd the heck out of it. Filled with 134a. Works great and blows cold even at idle. IIRC it was high 50's at idle and dropped a few degrees at cruising speed.
If you are going to convert to 134a, just make sure you do the steps in the right order......like flushing after removing the old parts, but before you put in the new ones etc.
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