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Contact Enhancer, Dielectric Grease, and Micro Files
For a while now, I have been puzzled by the use of dielectric grease on automobile electrical plugs, boards and other contacts. I recently spread some on a battery post and connector (as well as on the bottom of the clamp where it touches the case) and I thought "What the heck am I doing?"
Because my understanding is that "dielectric" grease is an insulator (just like a dielectric coupler which stops galvanized pipe from corroding copper pipe) meaning that it has the potential to prevent the passage of electricity from the male contact to the female contact in an automobile electrical connector.
I came across this thread about the use and non-use of dielectric grease in wet or corrosive environments such as in the adventure motorcycle world.
Check out post #9 on the first page. This is how it starts:
"Using Dielectric Grease on connectors.
A lot of people use dielectric grease on connectors. Some people mistakenly believe that dieletric grease is a conductor. In fact, it is just the opposite; it is an insulator. Dielectric grease is typically made of silicone grease.
As an insulator, dielectric grease is good for use on spark plug boots. This was one of the original applications on vehicles when the high-energy ignition systems came out. It can help insulate the connector and, in particular on a motorcycle where it can get wet, it waterproofs the spark plug boot. And, because it is silicone, it is fairly stable at high temperatures and won't affect the rubber and plastics.
So why would you put an insulator on a connector? The idea is that you use a thin layer. When you push the connector together the grease is pushed out of the way enough to get a connection and the surrounding grease then keeps out water and oxygen. The connector will be protected from the environment and less likely to corrode. Plus, the silicone is safe for the plastics and PVC insulation.
That sounds good, so far; so why not smear it on everything? Well there are a number of good reasons."
Finish reading the rest of that post, then take a look at the discussion of contact enhancers on page 2:
"Stabilant 22a is a contact enhancer and sealant. It actually creates a larger contact patch. Or put another way it lowers the contact resistance AND seals the 'edges' of the contacts themselves so that moisture and other contaminants stay out of the active signal transfer area.
Stabilant22a is really effective for connections that are exposed to water or other sources of corrosion at the contacts themselves.
Deoxit is a cleaner / enhancer / lubricant to minimize surface oxidation and allow less wear during sliding in and out.
Deoxit is a general purpose contact enhancement chemical that works especially well on gold and silver etc.
And yeah with Deoxit, since you use so little, your supply last a really long time. I've had my spray can and container with pads since the 80's and I have well over half of both of them, still.
I first heard about Stabilant being used in the automotive industry when Infinity had HUGE problems with water collecting in connectors at the low spots of the wiring harnesses. It was 'solved' by using Stabilant to seal up the connections among other remedial changes."
So what say you, you electrical gurus, about use of contact enhancer vs dielectric grease vs (I guess) nothing in the electrical connectors on our 7.3L PCM, sensors, harnesses, etc.?
Last edited by Stewart_H; 03-07-2015 at 09:09 PM.
Reason: Title changed per OP's request
I can't speak to the "Contact Enhancer" but I've always used Dielectric Grease on connectors around the sleeve to prevent water intrusion into the coupler. Not on the Pins themselves.
I also have put it on the Terminals of Batteries once the cables are connected to help keep air / water out to slow corrosion.
I use it on both the pins and connectors on Motorcycles when I work on them. All the service manuals specifically state to use it on connectors and connections. Of just about every motorcycle manufacturer has its own branded product.
I have used "Bulb Grease" on sockets which to me, looks similar to Dielectric Grease but states it "enhances corrosion resistance" and also states to "cover the entire electric contact area".
Maybe its all marketing Snake Oil?
I have a 32 oz. Tube of Dielectric Grease (don't know who makes it, its that old and the label has worn off) and a 16 oz. Tube of RTV Brand Bulb Grease. Short of tasting it, it looks identical to me.
I know that over the years, many hours of classroom and practical training in Automotive Electronics and Troubleshooting the message is always the same: "use Electrical Grease".
I'm not a guru, but I have found a simple way to understand the meaning of dielectric grease.
Think "DIE ELECTRIC". Key word: Die.
Looking the word dielectric up in the dictionary confirms it's meaning.
The reason why we are instructed to use DIE electric grease on spark plug boots, is because other types of grease can be conductive, and we wouldn't want the high energy spark to arc up the boot. Yet we want a water resistant sealer, that will also enable us to pull the boot off later to change the plug.
The above definition always helps me remember which type of grease to use on electrical connections.
I do what Tom does on the outside of electrical connectors, ie, the plastic housings themselves, being careful not to get any grease where the pins and sockets interface.
If there needs to be some type of corrosion inhibitor between the pins and sockets themselves... such as might be the case with dissimilar metals, then I tend to use anti oxidant type of products, of which NoAlOX is one type commonly available in home improvement stores.
However, I also can understand why some people might put a thin layer of dielectric grease on multipin connectors, because they don't want the signal from one circuit to travel along the grease and short with another circuit. Having the grease be just as insulating as the plastic housing of the connector assembly might avoid that possibility, but brings the risk of interfering with the conductivity between the intended pins and sockets.
So I generally avoid DIE electric grease on the contacts themselves, or anywhere they might be drawn in to compromise the contacts. Ford's Wedgelock connector sockets are too easily "widened", and I don't want hydraulic pressure of grease pressed in by the "plunger" of a pin widening that socket, which might reduce the circumferential contact pressure of the socket surrounding the pin on the next reconnect cycle.
I think this is a good topic... I read too many posts that do not seem to understand that dielectric grease really is exactly what the dictionary says it is... DIE electric.
No, Vaseline or WD-40 has no place in electrical connectors or components."
It goes on to say:
"Using dielectric grease on connector pins can be a source of unwanted high resistance. Ferrari used to put dielectric grease inside all of their engine connectors (that will see water) but they eventually found out that it caused problems. They issued a service bulletin that advised cleaning out all of the grease and to use instead a contact enhancing product called Stabilant 22.
When applied to an electrical connection Stabilant 22 becomes conductive. The manufacturer claims that it is as good as a soldered joint.
VW, Porsche, BMW and Ferrari all recommend the use of Stabilant 22 on electrical connectors. You can buy it at your local VW parts department. Don't be shocked at the price, a 5ml tube is around $40."
Application Note 20 makes this interesting statement:
"Often a "sensor malfunction" error message on a diagnostic computer occur because of a faulty connection to the sensor. We're sure that if you service this type of equipment then you've replaced sensors only to have the same error message re-occur. In cases where a heavy grease has been used to waterproof the connection this should be removed with kerosene, isopropyl alcohol and/or cleaner before applying the Stabilant."
Dielectric is good stuff, use it for ignition boots and keeping moisture out of electrical connectors. I smear this around connectors that have o-rings or packings. It doesn't seem to do as well when exposed directly to elements and road salt, etc.
For battery cables and all electrical connections and grounded points exposed to open air I like to grind/scrape to bare metal and/or coat with a product called "NO-OX-ID special" a type of conductive grease designed for this purpose. It pays to spend some time on grounds and connectors on any piece of equipment.
Part of the problem with commercial contact cleaners is that over the years the most effective products have been banned.
Tim, thank you for the information on the Stabilant22a. The methods you describe in your post make a lot of sense. Our engines are exposed to corrosive chemicals, moisture, heat, cold, more condensing moisture, more heat. These cycles of varying temperatures and moisture levels can cause corrosion in both electrical connections and in mechanical connections. The weird thing is that it takes so long to happen, we often overlook the process and do nothing to prevent it.
The telecom industry is very aware of this problem and uses a grease in all of their copper connectors that are outside in the weather. We should follow their example, I believe. No grease should be installed on battery post's unless designed for the purpose. I tried antioxident on battery posts one time-did not work for long! The grease can be installed on the battery terminals after installation to seal along with the felt washers.
The Stabilant sounds like a great idea for trucks, garden tractors etc. Great find! But it is important to watch out for causing a short between adjacent connections. Larry
For a while now, I have been puzzled by the use of dielectric grease on automobile electrical plugs, boards and other contacts. I recently spread some on a battery post and connector (as well as on the bottom of the clamp where it touches the case) and I thought "What the heck am I doing?"
One of the tips I learned on the forum a few years back was to use Noalox on battery terminals and clamps.
For starters, internet forums aren't the place for finding valid information..so why listen to mine?
Dielectric grease is non-conductive. The opposite is conductive.
There are "theoretical" concerns, and actual concerns. Silicone grease converting to silicon dioxide is theoretical, and more of an advertising hype than a valid concern. Notice how anyone mentioning this wants to sell you the better product?
Is a conductive grease better? Is putting some grease with conductive metals (zinc) into a fitting with multiple plugs a better idea?
So it depends on what you want to do. If you want to seal out air and water from an pressure (as opposed to physical, such as soldered) connection, and the connection is just one point-to-point, then some of the "contact enhancers" might work. But if it's for a multi-wire connector, maybe not.
Are you fording water? You might want something better than the rubber seal to protect a connection from shorting. If not, the factor connection is probably fine.
Don't try and apply one solution to all possible connections. Dielectric grease works well when applied to the proper connection. "Contact enhancers"? Well, there are an awful lot of different solutions to this "problem" which indicate that maybe it's more hype than a problem.
For starters, internet forums aren't the place for finding valid information..so why listen to mine?
..
So it depends on what you want to do.
... Don't try and apply one solution to all possible connections. Dielectric grease works well when applied to the proper connection.
Your 2 cents worth of internet advice.
Centauro: Thanks for posting. This is exactly the type of internet advice that could make this thread helpful to me and others and also help keep this forum great.
I posed the question because I was using a product on an electrical connection which I realized that I really didn't know what to use it for and how to use it. So you and the others posting can consider yourselves gurus.
What say you, you other electrical gurus, about use of contact enhancer vs dielectric grease vs (I guess) nothing in the electrical connectors on our 7.3L PCM, sensors, harnesses, etc.?
I was just looking to see the comments and recalled something from a couple training classes I took over the years:
1. We did several case studies where the cause of a voltage drop was where an aluminum terminal connector was used on copper wire. The point the instructor was making was that when dissimilar materials have current through them there is an "unavoidable process" that creates resistance over time due to a chemical reaction between the two dissimilar materials which is accelerated by both heat and humidity.
2. We also did several case studies where fuses blew in circuits, using OHM and Volt Meters we were unable to diagnose the issue until we loaded the circuits. We found the issues to be where wires were punctured with test lamps. Over time, and contingent upon weather conditions like humidity, the copper actually reacts and turns to that green stuff, "which used to be wire". He said that 14 AWG wire is now 16, 18, or 20 AWG (depending on the extent of chemical reaction) and needed to be replaced where the corrosion was found. And, always seal the wire where it has to be punctured and not to use silicone as it accelerates the process. He actually suggested using clear nail polish to seal the holes.
3. As for the Batteries and cables. Another instructor said they should be treated just as an oil change or other maintenance. In that, they should be cleaned semi-annually and Batteries checked and kept clean as well. He also suggested using a spray bottle with baking soda and water mixture be sprayed on the terminals as this time as well. Copper and Lead Lugs have the same type of dissimilar reaction.
I don't know how this helps this thread. But, I thought I would throw it in as some have directly or indirectly mentioned it. And, the fact I actually remembered something reading this thread.
So there is this Dodge van guy on another forum who started a thread on this topic on 07-01-2010, 09:31 PM
And he came back 4.5 years later to update it to share what he learned in the interim.
Bottom line is this for us 7.3L PSD guys: Our electrical contacts are oxidizing inside the plugs in our harnesses and in the connections to our PCMs, etc.
For me personally, I have been diagnosing a "no canbus" no start situation or various sensor "open relay" trouble codes in my wife's 2000 Dodge Dakota 4x4 4.7L gasoline engine over the past year. And have gone through 5 defective replacement PCMs since.
I just sprayed some CRC contact cleaner into the three female plugs and on the bright shiny copper pins on the replacement PCM which I just received earlier this week, let them dry for a half hour -- and when put back together, the engine started immediately.
It was "no canbus" no start a half hour earlier.
Now I think that all along the problem or one of the problems has been oxidation on the three female plugs on the harnesses where they connect to the PCM and that I may owe an apology to the replacement PCM provider who graciously kept sending me new refurbished replacement PCMs under warranty.
I mean put a copper wire under the hood in your engine compartment and don't do anything with it for 15 or 20 years. Wouldn't it get black, green or some other form of oxidation on it which could make electrical connections intermittently fail or fail altogether?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/DeoxIT-Shield-Brush-Applicator-Caig-/111341043754?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item19ec71802a
All of which landyacht318 recommend in the following thread:
and set about cleaning every electrical connection on the exterior on my wife's 2000 Dodge and on my 1995 Bronco and on my 2002 E350.
You may want to consider the same if you are chasing an electrical gremlin.
On the Dodge Dakota-Durango.com forum petrock said the following about vehicle electrical issues, which I now consider very wise:
"Mechanics look to the component. Electricians look to the wiring."
I can back this up. I work with very large and complex computer controlled systems. I can't count the number of times I've conducted repairs by simply removing computer cards and RAM to clean the edges, then reinserting. We had one system that kept burning out - it was always a bad connector. Upon deeper investigation, the connector specs were wrong - bad engineering.
We just had a computer rack act up, and the vendor technician determined the i3 computer they installed 5 years ago needed to be replaced. Asking the tech to have a cup of coffee while I took a look, I found a broken lock tab on an Ethernet cable - making the communications intermittent. I just saved the company $2000 by looking at the wiring instead of the component.
When I worked for Boeing as an "experimental missile electrician", you wouldn't believe the lengths they went to to make reliable electrical connections. I spent 2 days in solder classes alone - to make NASA-certified solder joints. All of that was for new stuff, what Tim is helping us all with is what happens 15 years later - when you don't use NASA and Boeing techniques for wiring connectors.
I can back this up. I work with very large and complex computer controlled systems. I can't count the number of times I've conducted repairs by simply removing computer cards and RAM to clean the edges, then reinserting. We had one system that kept burning out - it was always a bad connector. Upon deeper investigation, the connector specs were wrong - bad engineering.
We just had a computer rack act up, and the vendor technician determined the i3 computer they installed 5 years ago needed to be replaced. Asking the tech to have a cup of coffee while I took a look, I found a broken lock tab on an Ethernet cable - making the communications intermittent. I just saved the company $2000 by looking at the wiring instead of the component.
When I worked for Boeing as an "experimental missile electrician", you wouldn't believe the lengths they went to to make reliable electrical connections. I spent 2 days in solder classes alone - to make NASA-certified solder joints. All of that was for new stuff, what Tim is helping us all with is what happens 15 years later - when you don't use NASA and Boeing techniques for wiring connectors.
A simple pencil eraser on the board contacts has saved the day many times when working on multi-boarded systems. During pre-wave soldering, 30 years ago, saw us hand soldering 64 leg IC's fast enough so not to compromise the chip. Coffee seemed way better back then.
06-04-2014, 04:06 PM
