Factory Brake Controller not working
Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 10,060
Likes: 491
From: Bristol, TN.
No it is not the seals, just put new ones in with the new brakes. However, you are correct the old brakes/seals appeared to be leaking.
Just today I installed a new battery for the emergency brake system ( the old one was dead) and pulled the pin. Well the brakes locked up, so I guess the brakes work.
My friend had a trailer plug testing tool, that plugs into the trailer harness. The tool has switches for brake lights, lights, brakes… and it shows the amps for each. It goes from 0 to 20. When he did the brake switch the amps went about 1/2 way (its just little lights) so i am guessing 10 to 12 amps. Is this enough? SHould it not have went all the way?
Thanks in advance.
Just today I installed a new battery for the emergency brake system ( the old one was dead) and pulled the pin. Well the brakes locked up, so I guess the brakes work.
My friend had a trailer plug testing tool, that plugs into the trailer harness. The tool has switches for brake lights, lights, brakes… and it shows the amps for each. It goes from 0 to 20. When he did the brake switch the amps went about 1/2 way (its just little lights) so i am guessing 10 to 12 amps. Is this enough? SHould it not have went all the way?
Thanks in advance.
Steve
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Cross-Country
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 53
Likes: 0
From: Half Moon Bay
Ok then, it looks like my trailer is working properly.
So, what I did this morning was hook up the trailer but did not plug it in. I then drove down the road up to about 35mph and hit the brakes hard. I repeated this 2 more times. Then I plugged the trailer in and did the samething. I found no noticable stopping differance. Back to my original thought that the brake controller does not work using the foot peddle.
So, what I did this morning was hook up the trailer but did not plug it in. I then drove down the road up to about 35mph and hit the brakes hard. I repeated this 2 more times. Then I plugged the trailer in and did the samething. I found no noticable stopping differance. Back to my original thought that the brake controller does not work using the foot peddle.
Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 10,060
Likes: 491
From: Bristol, TN.
You really need to have someone who has the correct test box with the 20-foot cord on it plug it in, sit in the cab with you and read the amp output when you hit the brakes. If you have a working controller and good trailer brakes, but lack a good connection between the truck and trailer, you still will not have good trailer brakes. If you were we could resolve this the controller issue quite rapidly. Are you anywhere near Northeast Tennessee?
When I have gone through this in the past with others, it almost always turned out it was something other than the controller causing the problem, which is why I take such a conservative position regarding the controller. Maybe your controller has some weird issue, but so far we really don't have the information we need because no one really has the equipment to do the correct diagnostic. That is not your fault. Ford checks the truck, RV techs check the tow, but no one really tries to put it all together. Leaves owners in limbo, which I think is pretty lame!
If you have a meter that reads volts, put one probe on the pin for the brakes and the other on the ground pin and have someone press on the brake pedal on the rear of your truck and tell me what you get.
Steve
When I have gone through this in the past with others, it almost always turned out it was something other than the controller causing the problem, which is why I take such a conservative position regarding the controller. Maybe your controller has some weird issue, but so far we really don't have the information we need because no one really has the equipment to do the correct diagnostic. That is not your fault. Ford checks the truck, RV techs check the tow, but no one really tries to put it all together. Leaves owners in limbo, which I think is pretty lame!
If you have a meter that reads volts, put one probe on the pin for the brakes and the other on the ground pin and have someone press on the brake pedal on the rear of your truck and tell me what you get.
Steve
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Cross-Country
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 53
Likes: 0
From: Half Moon Bay
I dont think I could be much further away from you, I am on the CA coast near SF. Thank you though.
I will check the out put with a meter and let you know. I agree with you though, I dont necessarily thinks its the controller because it works manually. Somewhere between the brake peddle and the plug.
I will check the out put with a meter and let you know. I agree with you though, I dont necessarily thinks its the controller because it works manually. Somewhere between the brake peddle and the plug.
Thread Starter
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Cross-Country
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 53
Likes: 0
From: Half Moon Bay
Well, I tested my truck using the Tow Doctor tool. I plugged it into the recieved and with the long cord I had the test lights in the cab. It shows, running lights, turn signal, brake lights, Electric trailer brakes... Parked the light for the trailer brake did not come on. I then drove down the road and hit the brakes and the light came on. I then adjusted the brake controller to 0, drove down the road and hit brakes, no light. I contiuned driving while hitting the brakes and adjusting the controller up and the light can on. The harder I hit the peddle the brighter the light.
In the end, the controller appears to be working. I did not put a volt meter on it though to see out put.
I dont no where to go at this point.
Mario
In the end, the controller appears to be working. I did not put a volt meter on it though to see out put.
I dont no where to go at this point.
Mario
Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 10,060
Likes: 491
From: Bristol, TN.
As Scott suggests, the most finely tuned test verifies amp draw, but your procedure was valid and increasing light intensity would indicate increased amperage to the seven pin at the rear so I am inclined to be of the opinion your controller is working.
I am not saying all is well with your complete system given you sense there is a problem, I am just saying my hunch is still it is not the controller. All it takes is a poor connection between a good controller and a good braking system to cause problems.
Sorry you are having so much trouble with this.
Steve
I am not saying all is well with your complete system given you sense there is a problem, I am just saying my hunch is still it is not the controller. All it takes is a poor connection between a good controller and a good braking system to cause problems.
Sorry you are having so much trouble with this.
Steve
Cargo Master
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 2,116
Likes: 6
From: Florida
Share this site with others it kinda explains the ford integrated brake controller better than I have found to date http://www.cvsa.org/programs/documen...2001-04-05.pdf
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Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 10,060
Likes: 491
From: Bristol, TN.
Share this site with others it kinda explains the ford integrated brake controller better than I have found to date http://www.cvsa.org/programs/documen...2001-04-05.pdf
Steve
Cargo Master
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 2,116
Likes: 6
From: Florida
Yes, what you posted is accurate for the 05 controller. On the controllers since then you will see over 10 amps when you activate the controller on manual, if you have it dialed all the way up, and you will feel a good deal more than a gentle jerk. I posted the actual read-out comparing pedal and manual activation using my 2010 TBC some months ago in this forum.
Steve
Steve
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