I have a 2011 F 450 cab/chassis with factory brake controller and a 48 ft featherlite toy trailer. Noticed on our recent trip to Colorado that we didn't have any trailer brakes. Took it to my dealer and he said controller checked out. Took it to another mechanic the have trailer brakes checked out and they were fine. Second mechanic did some voltage checks and found that automatic pedal voltage was only 3 volts and manually the best he could get was 8 volts (controller set to maximum). This was checked parked and at 20 mph with results the same for both. Called installer at featherlite and he said he runs into this all the time with Ford trucks and the only solution he has found is to install aftermarket controller. My question is "Why did I pay extra for the Ford controller ?"

 

I agree a bit annoying. I have the factory controller and it won't work with the new boat trailer brakes (elec/hyd).

 

snakechaser,

I have an '11 F250 and my controller has performed flawlessly for the first two years. Lately, (last month or so), it appears to acting just like yours. It doesn't seem to be outputting enough voltage to stop my skid steer trailer even with the output set to max. Using the brake pedal to stop is pretty much useless, so I have to manually work the brakes, but the trailer brakes don't feel like they are doing much. I'm still under warranty, so it will go in for service. I'll keep you posted on the outcome.

 

First of all, it is way too soon to throw in the towel with your TBC and I completely disagree with the tech at Featherlite, although I often hear that comment from folks who do not understand the system.

I am not arguing your controller is working, but there are hundreds of folks using the TBC who seem to love it. (I think it is over-engineered and lacks worthwhile diagnostics, but that is me).

You do not check brake controllers using voltage readings as you have an accelerometer in there that is going to vary output depending on pedal pressure and how abruptly you are stopping. In a static condition, of course, testing is done with the manual slide. The issue is simply what is the maximum braking amperage to the trailer wheels with the maximum activated on manual and can you achieve the same thing with a hard stop using the pedal? You should see 3 amps per wheel or 12 amps through the blue lead on a dual axle trailer (I am assuming electric brakes and not electric over hydraulic) in a hard stop. At anything less than a truly hard stop, you will not see close to that.

There are multiple factors that affect trailer brakes and the TBC is a proven component loved by many. I have a TBC in one of my trucks and a high-end after-market I am in love with in the other. Under test conditions, if it could be done blind-folded, I would be willing to bet a month's salary no one could tell the difference in braking action.

My two cents worth.

Steve