You really don't need to do that and it will not help much diagnostically. If you pull the break-away pin and the brakes on the trailer take hold so you can not pull it with your truck, the trailer brakes are working. There is no need to go further with that and it means the problem is with your truck.

Ninety percent of truck problems are with the seven pin connector on the back of the truck, although it seems the most common component held accountable is the TBC. The TBCs are very reliable. I don't think as reliable as the aftermarket controllers given their added complexity, but you also gain a few feature with them, so it kind of balances out.

Steve

 

Well the other truck worked a little better but not much. It appears it may be the trailer now. Pulled the drums again and had them resurfaced, replaced the ground on the trailer, NO better.

I then took the trailer for a drive to get it up to speed to see if the TBC would work better, It didnt.

Not sure what my next step is other than I am leaving tomorrow as is.

 

My guess, given the same performance with both trucks is the seven pin cord on your trailer, but an amp draw while braking would tell you that instantly.

Steve

 

Did you ever pull the emergency break-away pin to see if it locks the brakes?

 

That should certainly be the first step any time deciding whether the problem is truck or trailer.

Steve

 

Yes, tried that. The battery was dead. Just got back from my trip, I had to go. Now I am back and will start working on it again. However, The brakes are working better when I use the controller manually. I can now skid the tires if I wanted to. I do not feel the trailer brakes grab when I use the foot peddle though.

ALso, want to thank everyone for the advice.

 

You are not supposed to feel the brakes working. I can't feel mine either. The TBC is designed to match the deacceleration rate of the truck. Not only can I not feel my TBC working, I also can not feel the high-end aftermarket controller in my other truck working either. When you activate manually you are not matching the rate at which the truck is slowing so it is not diagnostically helpful to make that comparison. Make sense?

Steve

 

As has been said, people just do not understand how the TCB is supposed to work..... that is including "MOST" Ford technicians! Not to mention the sales people how usually end up showing their clients how to use there Ford truck!

 

Yes, it makes sense and possibly there is nothing wrong with my brake controller. However, it just feels as if the trailer is pushing was I come to a stop using the peddle. So, if it is working, it doesn't seem to be matching the brake pressure. Other than turning the gain to 10, which it is, is there any other way to increase the stoping power?
The good news it the tow/haul works great and I really didn't have to use the brakes a lot anyhow.

 

I do believe this to be true also. I have been to the dealer and none of the techs have given me this info.

 

I am glad you are trying to think this through. Ford techs are not RVers, so I would be surprised if the majority understand the controller.

Now here is where I am with your controller. You took your truck to the dealer and they tested your controller. That was a good move on your part as there are only a couple of ways to really test it and few folks have the equipment to do it properly. They said it is working. I bet they are right.

That leaves you with a trailer that is pushing even though you have your controller dialed up. Having been down this road many a time, along with others on this forum, my thought here is there are two possibilities. Remember the Ford dealer said the controller is working. That says nothing about the connection or the trailer brakes.

As suggested previous, with the truck unplugged from the trailer, pull the break-away pin. The trailer wheels should now be locked and trying to move it will either drag the wheels and dig into the dirt or leave marks on the pavement. If that doesn't happen the trailer brakes are not adjusted correctly and need attention. You have to do this with the truck pulling. You can not feel this properly by simply jacking up a wheel and trying to turn it. If you have a clamp meter that reads DC amps, you should see about 12 amps on the blue brake lead, if all the magnets are on board and amped up.

If the wheels are locked tight, that leaves only the connection between truck and trailer and your attention then would be devoted to the seven pin cord and how it mates to the truck. A poor connection will result in weak trailer brakes.

I know all of this is crazy, but the manufacturers spent a fortune developing a brake controller that is so seamless with the truck braking action it can not be felt when it is operating and the most common complaint from owners is the controller is not working because it can not be felt. It comes up all the time in this forum so you are not alone.

Steve

 

I will work on this this week now that I am home and report back.
Thanks

 

An issue surfacing on others like my new 5er is that the chinese grease seals are failing and letting the axle grease contaminant the brake pads...

could that be it ?

 

It sure could be the problem.....and the only answer may be replacement of the pads and the drums/disks!

 

No it is not the seals, just put new ones in with the new brakes. However, you are correct the old brakes/seals appeared to be leaking.

Just today I installed a new battery for the emergency brake system ( the old one was dead) and pulled the pin. Well the brakes locked up, so I guess the brakes work.

My friend had a trailer plug testing tool, that plugs into the trailer harness. The tool has switches for brake lights, lights, brakes… and it shows the amps for each. It goes from 0 to 20. When he did the brake switch the amps went about 1/2 way (its just little lights) so i am guessing 10 to 12 amps. Is this enough? SHould it not have went all the way?

Thanks in advance.