A9L firing order
I want the fuel injector firing order to match the cam. Do I need the A9L computer or some other type?
Also, has anyone tried these computer programs, like the EEC-Tuner, that allow you to custom tune the computer?
Any help is appreciated.
Thanks
Bud
I'm gathering the parts to do a maf conversion on my EFI 460 and just received a TwEECer to do the reprogramming and tuning. I looked at the EEC-Tuner but went with the TwEECer because the datalogging capabilities seemed more flexible. I've been doing a lot of reading about tuning with the TwEECer while I'm waiting on parts.
Save & spend, Save & spend.
Cody
I don't have any reference material with me now but the A9L sounds like the standard 5.0 HO computer for a mass air, 5-speed car.
REGARDLESS, you already stated correctly that the 5.0 HO and the 351W have the same firing order... 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8.
ALL (86 - 95) of the EFI 5.0 HO's used the 351W firing order.
Your question suggests that you have not purchased a wiring harness and computer. If that is the case, you will definately be better off with a mass air set up. That would be from a 89 and up Mustang harness and computer (also the 88 California cars). Having done a 5.0 EFI swap, I suggest you get an entire donor car as there are many sensors and parts you will need form the car. One last suggestion would be to get the Ford EVTM for the year of your donor car. The Electrical, Vacucm Troubleshooting Manual will cover all your wiring and EFI parts questions.
Regarding computer tuners, the 5.0, mass air, EFI system is extremely adaptive. Unless you get very radical (and I guess that is subject to interpretation) the factory computer can be made to run very well with a lot of aftermarket parts, so long as you use compatible and properly calibrated parts. I am running the factory computer (without chip or tuning device) in my 91 (see signature) and it has aftermarket heads, intake and Vortech blower.
Good luck,
TC
You are spot-on when you ask about detonation… it’s the #1 cause of blown head gaskets on 5.0 forced induction applications! (I have only changed them once… and since I had the heads off, I figured it was the time to add new heads :)… no sense pulling them twice!)
And yes to both questions; I have bigger injectors (24lbs/hr v. 19lbs/hr stock) and part of the Vortech kit (and most others) is a fuel enrichment system. They call it an FMU for Fuel Management Unit, and it increases fuel pressure based on boost pressure. As boost rises, it progressively restricts the fuel return line to the tank, effectively increasing fuel pressure in the rail. With higher than stock fuel pressure the injectors “act” like they are bigger than they are. Its kind of crude but it works pretty well. The goal is to fatten up the fuel curve under boost and it does. Excess raw fuel (up to a point) has a cooling effect in the cylinders (again, crude but it works), thus fuel supply, both pressure and volume is critical. Regarding injectors, I must add that when you install larger injectors, you must either replace or recalibrate the mass air meter for the size injectors you install. It then gives the ECU a signal appropriate for the flow rate of the injectors. Comes back to the compatible parts thing!
As far as the air/fuel ratio, I am more of a conservative hobbyist than a dyno/data logger guy, so with an air/fuel gauge from Autometer, I just make sure it reads in the rich or high end of the stoichiometric range when under boost. And of course, you are always listening for any signs of knocking. I guess the theoretic/technical answer to your question is that people try to run a little fat, in the range of 12:1, when under boost, but I am only telling you that from what I read, not experience.
The guys running in the 8, 9, and 10-second ¼ mile times are likely using modified engine control stuff. But there is a long way you can go working WITH the ECCIV from Ford!!! I could go on and on… (I tried to keep it short!)
Are you are familiar with the extent of aftermarket support there is for the 5.0L EFI cars, its huge. I didn’t expect to see the support the aftermarket has given the PowerStrokes, it’s great!!! It is a steep learning curve going from EFI to DI Turbo Diesels (air/fuel ratio??? 14.7:1???) but I have learned a lot from this website and others. Thanks for keeping the information available!
TC
*** I am certainly willing to talk in more detail on EFI tuning but I didn’t want to bore anyone to tears.
You always hear people talk about the Chevy 350 market, but most people, like you said, don't realize how good the 302 market is. There's even a book out that explains all the stuff available for small block Fords (EFI or carb'd).
Yes, the diesel market is big and getting bigger every day. Its not just the size of the market that drives it, its the fact that diesel owners are willing to spend money to get what they want and/or need. You don't see diesel guys hacking together an engine on the weekend because they have to get to work on Monday. They need things that work and work reliably for a long time (afterall, many of them use the truck for work). Diesel owners also tend to research more and buy things that work. You don't see Powerstrokes with Tornado's in the intake! Not saying there aren't a lot of gas guys that go for performance (I love old big blocks!) instead of gimmicks, its just that any one can buy a gasser and claim Slick 50 increased their engine life and lowered their 1/4 mile times!
From what I have seen, you are right that the diesel crowd seems pretty determined to find things that work. They used to say the same thing about the 5.0L cars; "Ford gave us the best 3/4 complete car to start with and it begs for mods..." So much easy power to be had from a Powerstroke too!!!
Bud,
If you get stuck further on in your 5.0L swap, drop me a note, I may be able to help! I still fiddle with the '91 and have swapped a 5.0 into a '85 T'bird Turbo Coupe before... that was a nice combo!
Oh, one other thought, you didn'tmention whether you will use a manual or auto... the A9P in the auto tranny version of the A9L... the A9P will allow for the idle to come up a little when you put the auto in gear...
TC






