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5.4 spark plug change

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Old May 23, 2014 | 09:24 AM
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5.4 spark plug change

I am changing the plugs in my 98 e150 today and I was thinking it was a .54 gap and 13 ft/lbs to tighten them. That sound about right?
 
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Old May 23, 2014 | 09:26 AM
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That does sound right Josh. Of course you may want to post this in the Van forum instead of the Super Duty forum. IIRC the spec is 11-14 lb-ft. Dry threads only, do NOT use antiseize or anything that may lubricate the threads.
 
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Old May 23, 2014 | 09:44 AM
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Originally Posted by Tom
That does sound right Josh. Of course you may want to post this in the Van forum instead of the Super Duty forum. IIRC the spec is 11-14 lb-ft. Dry threads only, do NOT use antiseize or anything that may lubricate the threads.
I usually get faster replies in here than the van forum, but I will post it in there too. Why do you say no to anti sieze on them? I have always read to use anti sieze to keep from having problems with the threads or plugs blowing out.
 
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Old May 23, 2014 | 09:54 AM
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Originally Posted by phillips91
I usually get faster replies in here than the van forum, but I will post it in there too. Why do you say no to anti sieze on them? I have always read to use anti sieze to keep from having problems with the threads or plugs blowing out.
How many stories do you hear of factory plugs being blown out? I can't say that I ever have in the nearly 11 years I've been on FTE. Either you trust the factory specs or you don't, and those with issues are typically those with "better" ideas. The factory manual has always called for clean, dry threads.

Anti-seize is a lubricant, which means the clamping load will be magnified even if you torque to the factory specifications. That can lead to weakened or broken threads. Lots of folks insist that it's necessary to avoid plug seized in the heads, but just like above I've never heard of anyone having that problem on 2V heads. That's because the plugs are plated to avoid galvanic corrosion.
 
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Old May 23, 2014 | 11:51 AM
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now that's funny because ever thread i read on here people say to use anti-seize? My truck is the 2004 in my sig ive replaced the plugs five times in the 123k i have on her and every time i use Motorcraft plugs and silver high temp anti-seize and torque the plugs to 15ftlbs........ not one single issue installing or removing them
 
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Old May 23, 2014 | 11:52 AM
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Originally Posted by Tom
How many stories do you hear of factory plugs being blown out?

all the time..... on here and at local garages in my area
 
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Old May 23, 2014 | 11:53 AM
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Originally Posted by SuperDutyScaler
all the time..... on here and at local garages in my area
How can you hear them all the time? Were they on vans? Those are the only 2V engines that were manufactured recently. I'm talking about plugs installed AT the factory. Clean, dry threads without anti-seize.
 
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Old May 23, 2014 | 01:03 PM
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Tom, I took the number 5 and 6 plug out first and they were still the factory plugs at 145,000 miles. No problems getting them out and there was no anti seize on them. Both of those coils had hairline cracks in the case, so not sure whether to replace them or not. They haven't thrown codes and tested fine on the sun machine about 5,000 miles ago. Here is a pic of one. Thoughts? The crack is right at the base of the fat part of the canister where it connects to the part with the arrow(not the actual hair that is on the coil)

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Old May 23, 2014 | 03:45 PM
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Originally Posted by phillips91
Tom, I took the number 5 and 6 plug out first and they were still the factory plugs at 145,000 miles. No problems getting them out and there was no anti seize on them. Both of those coils had hairline cracks in the case, so not sure whether to replace them or not. They haven't thrown codes and tested fine on the sun machine about 5,000 miles ago. Here is a pic of one. Thoughts? The crack is right at the base of the fat part of the canister where it connects to the part with the arrow(not the actual hair that is on the coil)
If it were me it would depend on how easy they are to get to. I've never worked on a van, but if it's as easy as on a Super Duty I wouldn't replace the coil until it failed. Of course that's because it's only a five minute fix to replace it when it fails; if it's much more work to get to I would suggest preemptively replacing it. I think moisture is bound to get in there and cause some damage, but it may last another few years as well.
 
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Old May 23, 2014 | 07:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Tom
If it were me it would depend on how easy they are to get to. I've never worked on a van, but if it's as easy as on a Super Duty I wouldn't replace the coil until it failed. .
You don't know what you are missing then. I would just about rather get violated with a cactus than have to change the passengers side set of plugs or coils on a van lol. I can change the ones on my truck in no time, but these are a totally different story. Remove both front seats, half of the top half of then engine, hoses, wires,etc, and still only have room to turn your ratchet one click at a time and working by feel alone.
 
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