When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
the other guys will say don't do it, but I like to put some grease where the throw bearing sides, makes the clutch pedal a little softer, my knees haven't been the same since I rolled a four wheeler over my self
My guess is there is a change in the pressure plate design, but I'd much rather have a clutch that feels like a normal car clutch, than something that feels like an overloaded leg press in the gym
A redesign makes sense, now that I think about it. The OEM pressure plate is an inch or more narrower than the LuK pressure plate, and all things being equal the longer the lever, the less effort required to move it.
I didn't realize that my clutch kit would come with a pilot bearing and throw-out, so I figured I'd re-use the throw-out as I'd replaced it a few years ago, and bought an SKF pilot bearing from NAPA.
Turns out I got both bearings in the kit, so I replaced the throw-out as the old one was wobbly and probably dying, and used the SKF pilot bearing because it's an SKF bearing. Hopefully I won't have to worry about it!
Considering how big of a job it is to change just those bearings, I'd get the best ones I could find even if the kit comes with them.
Do you guys recomend replacing anything else while I'm in there? Should i go ahead and "upgrade" the pilot bearing with that one from kevlar?
I don't know anything about the kevlar bearing... never heard of it till now.
As for doing other things while you're there, I'd say be prepared to replace the rear main seal, though conventional wisdom around here seems to be "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" when it comes to the RMS.
If you drain the fluid, replace with Redline MTL and you'll have the happiest shifting tranny since you've owned the truck!