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Keepers stuck on retainer

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Old May 19, 2014 | 07:38 PM
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Keepers stuck on retainer

Got a possible problem. Using the Harbor Freight spring compressor per instructions and the keepers are not coming loose. I removed the tool and lightly tapped around the retainer with a rubber mallet, then tried compressing again. Same thing - keepers seem stuck to the retainer.

Help, anyone?

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Old May 19, 2014 | 09:54 PM
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move the piston to top dead center or close. the he valve will stop moving to pop the retainer loose
 
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Old May 20, 2014 | 06:12 PM
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That is potentially bad advice to hand out. Hammering a valve loose with the piston at TDC will cause major problems since there isn't but a 1/4 inch or so of clearance between piston & valve. If you have it at BDC, the valve keepers could bounce out and the valve drop into the hole.

I got the keepers unstuck by soaking in kroil overnight & lightly tapping with a metal hammer & socket. They clicked right out with a magnet.


Question I have is what is this exhaust seal? The larger black one by Ex. is the one I pulled.. The long or short cream colored seal is the supposed replacements. Neither looks the same. Could the PO have used intake seals on the exhaust side?

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Old May 20, 2014 | 09:24 PM
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Pop may have been the wrong term to use, very gently tap with soft hammer or your fist. I don't like the piston on the bottom just in case you drop the valve and it falls in then you have to pull heads.

I've always used rubber on intake and plastic on exhaust.
 
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Old May 20, 2014 | 10:34 PM
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Thanks for clarifying. I think I have a plastic mallet I can use going forward.

Any idea on what to do with the exhaust seals? I've read that some folks just put the rubber intake seals on both sides.
 
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Old May 21, 2014 | 01:34 PM
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just use the plastic ones, I've never seen two piece ones like yours. the reason the intake side is rubber to keep it vacuum sucking oil into the cylinder. on the exhaust side is pressurized so I can't suck in oil
 
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Old May 22, 2014 | 05:42 AM
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I've replaced 4 of the 16 so far. All four that I've pulled were soft and pliable, not hard like they'd been on there for a long time. Would you still replace the rest of them even if the others looked fairly recently replaced, or move on to the next task?
 
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Old May 22, 2014 | 11:21 AM
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what made you want to replace them for any way? they could still be worn to where they can leak.
 
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Old May 24, 2014 | 02:11 AM
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Originally Posted by queen of spades
That is potentially bad advice to hand out. Hammering a valve loose with the piston at TDC will cause major problems since there isn't but a 1/4 inch or so of clearance between piston & valve. If you have it at BDC, the valve keepers could bounce out and the valve drop into the hole.
Can you feed some rope/string through the injector hole like feeding rope through a spark plug hole?
 
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Old May 24, 2014 | 05:25 AM
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Originally Posted by rockittsled
Can you feed some rope/string through the injector hole like feeding rope through a spark plug hole?
Not possible with the pre-chambers.

One question I have is how do you get the springs off cylinders 4, 6, and 8 without taking off the big plastic box attached to the firewall?
 
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Old May 24, 2014 | 11:38 AM
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if you have ac there should be a cover you can take off, and you can take evaporator out. there should be enough flex in you lines to get it out of the way with out discharging it
 
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Old May 24, 2014 | 11:40 AM
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AC wasn't working when I got it.. I've removed just about everything dealing with ac. I'll take a picture of what's in the way and post in a few.
 
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Old May 24, 2014 | 12:05 PM
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Old May 24, 2014 | 12:07 PM
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With that pic your can almost see all the screws that hold the cover on, there is also a nut on a stud to the fire wall on the bottom.
 
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Old May 24, 2014 | 12:13 PM
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I'll try removing that this afternoon - thanks.
 
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