1987 6.9 is emitting exhaust so strong that you can taste it even if you are 10 feet away. There is smoke coming out of the tailpipe that I would describe as opaque/white/grey, the smoke is not obvious at first glance but after you stare at it you can see the cloud. (I tried to record a video but because of the sunlight it would not show up).


Background:
2007
Truck was purchased to plow my property.
Blue smoke on start up (valve seals)
When it was on the road I remember white smoke under load
2008 – 2010
Truck not registered and since then only used on property to plow.
2011
Truck would stall when idling down. Bandaged it by adding a spacer
between throttle and fast idle solenoid


Trouble shooting :
Did a compression test with the outside temp at about 60.
2 cylinders @400, 1 cylinder @340 and rest in between

Verified that all cylinders are firing via power balance test.

(gp ohms and loosening injectors to listen for change)

Coolant pressure test ok.

Bypassed the tank to have the truck run off a can of fresh diesel
saturated with Howe’s diesel clean.

Removed the spacer for the stall hack and verified that it still stalls.

Next steps:
This is where I need advice.

It seems that the IP is at least part of the problem. Aside from the stalling, can an IP create the exhaust I describe? What are the chances that this is due to valve seals or internal damage? Should I get my injectors tested?

Thanks.

 

Tune up time.

 

Yup, sounds like injectors & IP...

 

Agreed with ip and injectors, my tow truck is like your most the time is just idles around the yard moving stuff. It will some like that after a while it helps wen it is out on the road to dive the hell out of it. I mean full throttle or no throttle, that will clear it up for a while

 

Doesn't smell sweet at all, and the cloud doesn't disperse quickly? Sounds like fuel.

 

>>Doesn't smell sweet at all
Not even a little

>>and the cloud doesn't disperse quickly
its constant

 

i bought new injectors and a rebuilt ip from a local stanadyne shop

questions/comments
1)
i removed the IP the correct way by not touching the timing gear cover. I am assuming that I dont have to worry about cylinder 1 being at TDC.
2)
I needed B code injectors but I got BB sent instead. For the sake of being stock should I go back for the B's?
3)
Anybody know the torque for the fuel input nozzle. Its the copper piece with a rubber washer that the 5/16 fuel line bolts into.
4)
My IP installation kit comes with 1 rubber washer, I am assuming that this is for the nozzle mentioned in 3) and that the copper elbow for the fuel outlet does not need one.

Thanks!