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charging problem

Old May 19, 2014 | 05:17 PM
  #1  
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charging problem

Hello,

My alternator went out last week. I installed a new alternator, battery and serpentine belt. However, the battery is still dying. So far I checked the continuity on the fusible link and it appears to be good. I also cheched fuse number 11 which provides power to the voltage regulator. The fuse is not blown. The voltage at the battery while it is running is less than 12 volts and it drops the longer it runs. Any body run into this issue. I also have codes b1318, b1932, c 1226, and c1284.

Thanks for any and all assistance,
Robert
 
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Old May 19, 2014 | 09:59 PM
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First thing is the battery is not being charged.
Have to solve this first.
Is the dash charge lamp on?
If yes the alternator is not outputting. The alternator is either faulty or the plugup has an issue, harness, ignition switch etc..
For the codes you needed to look them up to get any benefit from what they tell you.
The B1318 just confirms the low voltage detected at the 4wd module.
B1932 says driver air bag circuit is open.
C1226 ABS brake circuit short to ground.
C1284 Oil pressure switch failure.
.
I almost sounds like you have harness damage at some location like from an accident or fire etc..
The low voltage codes likely will go away when the alternator is charging again, but the rest are a question waiting to be answered by what you find.
You have some looking around to do to see what's going on.
Good luck.
 
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Old May 19, 2014 | 10:45 PM
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Bluegrass 7,

No the charging lamp is not on. It came on when the alternator failed. After replacing the alternator the light went out.
 
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Old May 19, 2014 | 11:41 PM
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What do you see with a voltmeter across the battery right after starting?
It must rise to about 15 volts +/- then taper down as the battery recovers it's charge.
If you don't see this action, go back to the alternator terminal and make a reading for level.
If not the lead from the alternator is open at some point.
Check the big 175 amp fuse link, cables etc.
Are you sure the cables are back on correctly?
There is nothing more to the circuit.
To see this, look in a HAYNES manual page 12-17.
Good luck.
 
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Old May 19, 2014 | 11:58 PM
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I get a reading of 12 or less. I checked the voltage at the battery terminals and the back of the alternator and got the same reading.
 
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Old May 20, 2014 | 06:50 AM
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If your alternator fried, chances are your battery is toast too. Its a cause effect problem, a bad alternator can damage the battery, and the damaged battery can kill your new alternator.
 
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Old May 20, 2014 | 08:31 AM
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Take the alternator back to the place of purchase and have them test it on the bench, may be a bad one.
 
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Old May 20, 2014 | 02:54 PM
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Sorry, reread your post, my comment was of no help
 
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Old May 20, 2014 | 04:56 PM
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alternator should be putting out almost 15 volts. If it does not, then check wires and have alter tested by seller.
 
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