Hey guys,

I'll give a short history here. Been "on/off" active on this forum through a few Bronco's, Rangers and even Aerostars. Used to have a 75 F250 high-boy that I converted from a full-time to part-time (actually changed Xfer case to a NP 205). For the longest time, I was hoping (and at one point probably could have) to inherit my wife's grandfather's 78 F250 Lariat 4x4 that was absoultely pristine (about 75K miles, well taken care of). After I let that one go I thought "well, it's all past now". Until yesterday that is. Found a 78 F250 Custom Camper Special 4X4 with 4-speed and even has the factory tool box (maybe that's part of the Camper package?)! Mostly straight, no rust, don't even know if it has a 400 or 351 (don't really care). Someone recently replaced both cats, and it has dual tanks although those are likely standard I'm thinking. Has "cam lock" chains for both axles, decent tires. Cab, hood, front, back are all straight. Doors maybe a bit dinged and the bed between the tool box and tail gate is pretty bad. Cracked windshield. It was at an estate sale and they wanted $1500; I bid $1000 and got the call this morning. Funny thing is that there was an absolute toast corn-binder right next to it (totally rusted above the windshield) that they also wanted $1500 for.

The worst (right now anyway) is that it won't start. Cranks over great, runs on ether but won't stay running. It was going off a tank that looked empty; switched to the other one that indicated full so I'm wondering if they ran it empty and it clogged up? The truck was re-licensed for January 2014 but around here that could have been done mid-late fall (but it does indicate that they had to get it past emissions). Someone there said it had been moved in the last week to prep for the sale (all rigs were in a nice row). I can tow it home on a dolly but would like to avoid the hassle if possible. It's on my way home, I have a week to pick it up and so I'd like to take a stab at getting it started and drive it home.

I do believe my first thing should be to verify it's getting fuel. I didn't check, do these have a mechanical or electrical fuel pump and where is the filter located (assuming it's stock which the truck very much is)? Should I basically use a remote starter and check for fuel coming out at the carb?

I noticed the choke didn't close, it was about 55 degrees so I'm assuming it should have?

One other question, what do you guys think about the dents in the bed; fixable or should I start the painful process of looking for one? Sure would like to keep that tool box.

That's my first take on it, any suggestions?

Thanks!
BB

 

The bed rail caps have nothing to do with wheel arch rust. Bumps don't have the problem and it's the same basic design.

The cause of wheel arch rust are the poorly designed, welded-in wheel well liner. Dirt, pebbles, and mud gets packed-up between the liner and the bed. The so-called "drain holes" are waaaay too small and the mud/dirt can't escape nor dry out.

Been there. Done that - replacing wheel arches that is.

 

Probably a mechanical pump, and the filter is small, probably located at the front passenger side of the carb.
Is your gauge reading any fuel in the tank? Maybe switch tanks and try again.

Would be a good idea to start looking for a bed, but getting it running well should be first priority.

Nice truck!

 

NOT.

"Viola"? hahahahah....that's a stringed instrument. The correct spelling of that French word is v-o-i-l-a.

 

You're free to stand by your incorrect statement and conclusion.

I'll stand by my actual hands-on analysis and experience.

 

Thanks! I did switch the tank and the new one read full. I thought I had cranked it over enough to get fuel out of it (assuming that was the issue) but I also didn't want to fry the starter.

I'll give it a go early this week and see what happen.

BB

 

Moving on because your communication is pointless and errant.

But ya might wanna explain wheel arch rot on a short bed where there is no center stake hole.

 

But ya might wanna explain wheel arch rot on a short bed where there is no center stake hole.


Waiting on the theory..... LOL.

 

Your wasting your breath, HIO. Right, or wrong this guy is an antagonist with almost every thread he is on.

 

Agreed. My uncle ran his body shop for 40+ years and swears up and down that rail caps will greatly help save your truck from "cancer".

 

10-4..........

 

nice job HIO and the fender walls, I hope mine turn out this nice, thanks for posting

 

Hey biederboat, your new F-250 CS is awesome! I know you will figure out your fuel situation, but as far as your bed goes, I would go ahead and fix it. There is absolutely no need to throw it away over minor dents that could be pulled out in an afternoon. A little bodywork to smooth it out, and you're back in business.

David

 

Thanks! Future is undecided on this. I would absolutely love to get it looking "nice enough" and use it as a decent utility & hunt camp truck. Its future is bright but gotta get it running.

BB