When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
They would probably work fine of you have a manual glow plug setup as you just make the cycles shorter to compensate.
But if you are using the factory controller it would have no way to know the GPs are heating up faster than normal and it'd keep to its programmed cycle time and run them too long possibly burning them out or at the very least shortening their lifespan.
I looked at the DRx plugs also when it came time to replace mine. I ended up going with the ZD9's when my neighbor said that on his PSD (I know, apples to oranges), he noticed no difference in start or glow times. Some things I didn't feel the curiosity to try out. There are plenty of horror stories about aftermarket GPs out there.
Originally Posted by Chevy_Eater
...it'd keep to its programmed cycle time...
Not to completely divert this, but is the programmed cycle time set when using the GP controller? Is the only way to adjust it to install a push-button bypass? Is it only programmed based upon ambient temperature?
glow plug glow time is determined by the glow plug controller and the temperature sensor in the block.
diesel rx (wellman) glow plugs are for chevy's not navistar diesels.
they make all kinds of claims about how good they are, just like all the other companies. but when the burn out, they are not going to do anything but try to sell you another set of inferior glow plugs.
our trucks were designed to use Motorcraft/Beru glow plugs, nothing else.
besides, the motorcraft plugs cost less than the other inferior brands. why pay more for something that will not work as good, or last as long as the motorcraft?
Thank you for the replies. I'm no mechanic and this is my first diesel truck. So I'm really clueless on these motors. I do like to tinker on things time to time. My wait to start light doesn't work but I can hear a clicking noise under the hood. When it quits I proceed to start it. Fot some reason it's really hard to start 1st time. But once it's starts even 4hrs later it starts fine? Even with the engine warm am I suppose to wait for clicking sound to stop to start the truck (wait to start light) to go off?
does the WTS light come on at all at key on?
even a flash?
if not you may need a new bulb in the dash.
if it does come on for a second, or flash on, you most likely need glow plugs.
motorcraft ZD-9's. you can get them from rock auto for under $10 each MOTORCRAFT Part # ZD9
I pulled the dash apart but didn't see a place for a light bulb. Didn't want to break things either.
I do have a question since I'm new to diesels. Every time I go t start the truck even if I just shut it off for 2 min. Do I need to wait for the clicking or light when it works to go off before starting?
The DieselRX models are, as far as I know, 'dual-coil' models, like the beru ones. They have a compensating element inside, along with the resistor/heater, such that as the temperature rises, so does the resistance.
This allows for a distinct 'curve' to the temperature/current draw - when the GP is cold, it will draw a lot of current and heat up quickly, then as it gets hotter, it draws less and less current until it stabilizes at a certain point.
This means that, as long as the voltage in is below it's rated voltage, it will not overheat; it will just sit there glowing red.
If it's over that voltage, however... it will overheat just like any other glow plugs(including Beru ones).
This is more of a problem with the newer-style injectors, which are designed to operate on around 6-7V: The loading resistor(spring-like thing on the solenoid) keeps the voltage to around that when all of the GPs are working.
The old-style GPs are rated for around 12V, so they are a lot harder to overheat... though they take a couple of seconds longer to heat up, and low battery/cruddy wiring can make that even longer.
For a manual push-button system, however... I've found the old-style ones to work the best.
As far as GP use... If it starts without them, you didn't need them. If it's hot out, or your truck is still warm... go for it. You'll know right off if it starts of not. You'll also soon get a feel for when you will need to use them, versus when you don't.
BWD (limited life warranty $86.00)
Duralast (limited life warranty $86.00)
Standard (3 year 36K miles $70.00) have to order it.
Motorcraft (2 year 24K miles $130.00)
Today I notice my WTS light hasn't come on since my truck is nice and warmed up. It looked like it just flashed for a split sec. I opened the hood up to help cool off the engine quicker. I'll try to see if it come on later tonight or tomorrow. Just didn't know if this was normal?
Im thinking just the relay is bwd gpr7. Less than $25 i believe. U must use a glowplug relay even though they look like a starter relay. Starter relays ground off of case base where as glow plug relay grounds off of small threaded post.
once the engine hits around 110 degrees the glow plugs shut off and will not start working again until the engine temp goes below 110
I still get a "wait to start" light when my truck is warmed up. I this normal and the GP are just not getting power? I changed my return hoses and still have to wait, crank, wait, crank and then it starts on the second try. Warm or cold.
I tested my front plugs and there have not resistance my DVM can see. I have 6 and volts to the front connectors and the controller cycles.
It would be nice to have her start on the first try.
it depends on what year truck you have.
the newer trucks like my 02 will light on but not power the glow plugs.
my 88 does nothing once it is warmed up .