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Doing balljoints and other suspension parts. I have researched all over online but can't seem to find anything. I pull my lockin/lockout cover off (3 torx), pull the lockring out, and then slide the hub locking assembly out. Then I see no snap ring and/or spanner type nut. I see a larger nut that is almost the ID of the axle housing. It has 8 sides or more I did not count, wish I could have taken a picture but didn't think to. Everything I read people are using a 2 5/8" spanner type socket or similar. Had to throw everything back together and try again when I have the right tool needed. Any help or tips appreciated.
thanks guys for the replies. I've looked at a few of those manuals now and can't find any help about this nut.
DIYiT - do you know the size of that socket that you linked? It looks like that 2 5/8" spanner socket. I'll provide a link below and if you look at step 4 on this guide, is this the same nut that you have seen? My nut has no notches and is larger. I've done some research and I think I need this socket:
If you look at in the actual catalog you can see the front, it's a rounded off type socket. I guess someone replaced the original nut with one of this style? I'm curious if the torque specs and stuff remain the same.
I honestly don't remember what size it is. I ended up buying two different sockets since I bought the wrong one first (the one needed for the older kingpin axles).
I guess I'm not sure what you mean by step 4 of this guide, but this link will take you to my build thread showing the tear-down of my Dana 60 axle. Does your spindle nut look the same as the one in my axle? Some of the older Dana 60 axles use a six spline spindle nut instead of the later model 4 spline. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post12508446
Are they original hubs or has someone been in there before
ALOT of people swap the manual hubs in but do NOT know that the manual hubs nuts MUST also be used
Are they original hubs or has someone been in there before
ALOT of people swap the manual hubs in but do NOT know that the manual hubs nuts MUST also be used
I have manual hubs, and I do not have the 4 tooth spanner nut. I bought the 4 tooth spanner socket, thinking it was going to be what I needed. This truck has 290k and I've had it for about 15k so I assume this nut/axle isn't original. That 2-3/4" 6 sided hub socket looks more like what I need. Is there any possibility that I have manual locking hubs with an AUTO locking nut? Is that possible? my 4wd has always worked fine, by the way.
I honestly don't remember what size it is. I ended up buying two different sockets since I bought the wrong one first (the one needed for the older kingpin axles).
I guess I'm not sure what you mean by step 4 of this guide, but this link will take you to my build thread showing the tear-down of my Dana 60 axle. Does your spindle nut look the same as the one in my axle? Some of the older Dana 60 axles use a six spline spindle nut instead of the later model 4 spline. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post12508446
DIYiT - I opened your link and I see the nut. That is not the nut I have on mine. Mine has no notches at all, and seems to have 8 sides or more, it appeared to be the "rounded" design. By the research I've done so far, I believe it is the " 2 9/16" socket" that according to NAPA's description of this tool in their catalog was used with the "90-93 dodge trucks with D60"
below is a link to it, but I'm still not for sure this is the correct socket I need. the picture doesn't show much but if you look the tool part # up in their actual online catalog you will see a better view of it.
I have manual hubs, and I do not have the 4 tooth spanner nut. I bought the 4 tooth spanner socket, thinking it was going to be what I needed. This truck has 290k and I've had it for about 15k so I assume this nut/axle isn't original. That 2-3/4" 6 sided hub socket looks more like what I need. Is there any possibility that I have manual locking hubs with an AUTO locking nut? Is that possible? my 4wd has always worked fine, by the way.
It sounds as though your truck HAD auto hubs and someone converted it to manuals but did NOT change the locking nuts to the manual design like they were supposed to.
Most auto stores have a loaner program . You pay for the tool up front and when returned, you get refunded. They have spindle socket sets
Thanks diesel brad. I'am familiar with the loaner programs.
My truck is an XL - manual everything, it should have came stock with manual locking hubs correct? The autolocking hubs have controls on dash correct? My truck has no controls on dash anywhere or any trace of them being there in the past. It puzzles me as to how and why this nut is on my axle. no way of knowing.. oh well. thanks brad and other guys
You could have had auto hubs with a manual t-case. My F-250 has that setup. The auto hubs lock in based on torque applied to the axle, so you won't have any switches or buttons to lock the hubs while the t-case can still be a manual style.
You could have had auto hubs with a manual t-case. My F-250 has that setup. The auto hubs lock in based on torque applied to the axle, so you won't have any switches or buttons to lock the hubs while the t-case can still be a manual style.
Interesting. I'm curious to see what's on the drivers side. I'm almost certain that passenger side nut after doing research is the one diesel brad linked, the 2 and 3/4" sided hub socket. Hopefully I can loan a set that has what I need in it and get these ball joints done. Being my only means of transportation I have to wait until the weekend to try again. Or maybe weekend after next.