Axle wrap issues
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Axle wrap issues
Hey all, 1965 F100 short bed style side with a mild build 352.
My issue today is axle wrap..when ever I dump the clutch I have massive wheel hop and what not.
The leaf springs look like someone added some form of slapper bars at one point in time, but their not doing the job. The leaves have a nice ride height and hold 1000 pound payload just fine, so I don't imagine they're worn out.
My question is..What have you guys done to fix this issue?
I'm tempted to make my own ladder bar system, but I'm still trying to think one up that works with the suspension without binding it up. Help?
My issue today is axle wrap..when ever I dump the clutch I have massive wheel hop and what not.
The leaf springs look like someone added some form of slapper bars at one point in time, but their not doing the job. The leaves have a nice ride height and hold 1000 pound payload just fine, so I don't imagine they're worn out.
My question is..What have you guys done to fix this issue?
I'm tempted to make my own ladder bar system, but I'm still trying to think one up that works with the suspension without binding it up. Help?
Cargo Master
Joined: Apr 2003
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Price really doesn't matter. They work, period. You want something that works, right?? ...And I don't really remember. I want to say $379.00. It was "off the shelf." They are going to be among the higher priced traction devices.
They are absolutely the best and most cost effective compromise for a street/strip setup. My truck actually felt like it rode smoother after installation and, absolutely no hop. It will accomplish your goals of no hopping or binding under normal loads.
CalTracs
They are absolutely the best and most cost effective compromise for a street/strip setup. My truck actually felt like it rode smoother after installation and, absolutely no hop. It will accomplish your goals of no hopping or binding under normal loads.
CalTracs
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I do really like the idea of building something since I have a machine shop at my disposal..the reason I ask about price is because, well simply put life cost money and I have this thing called a budget that doesn't allow me to blow all my paycheck on toys. For something that works and works well, I can shell out a couple hundred bucks. What I don't want to do is go spending four digits.
But I do appreciate the suggestion..I'll look into it.
But I do appreciate the suggestion..I'll look into it.
Cargo Master
Joined: Apr 2003
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With a machine shop, you should be able to make it pretty easily. The part which goes against the axle tube is stamped steel so you'd need to come up with something different. An unknown is do their dimensions matter? If you make a set going off pictures, you won't be exact. So if they've already done the work to find the dimensions that work, you may not save a dime by making them yourself, if you get them wrong. I know your own time doesn't necessarily cost you cold hard dollars but it is still valuable.
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I think I've narrowed it down to three designs to decide from. One of which is similar to the caltrac setup. If anyone actually has this setup, pictures, notes etc would be greatly helpful and appreciated. In the pictures I've seen, it looks like the triangular plates are sandwhiched between the leaf spring and the mounting piece up front. I don't see how I could make that fit, so pictures are worth a million bucks. I was thinking of making stepped bushing on the outside of the shackles, and have the triangular plates ride on those. So essentially the plates are externally mounted on a dual OD bushing to retain them in place.
My two other thoughts were either a long tie rod extending from where the cab and bed meet down to axle, or a level bar from the axle to the rear of the frame. Both word have binding issues, but the front would be long (or) the rear would be level. Obviously it makes sense to only do one, and I think the caltrac copy cat design is the best to prevent binding..I just need more info on it.
Thanks guys!
My two other thoughts were either a long tie rod extending from where the cab and bed meet down to axle, or a level bar from the axle to the rear of the frame. Both word have binding issues, but the front would be long (or) the rear would be level. Obviously it makes sense to only do one, and I think the caltrac copy cat design is the best to prevent binding..I just need more info on it.
Thanks guys!
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Cargo Master
Joined: Apr 2003
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The triangular plates fit between the spring and frame/bracket. The bushing is two piece, an aluminum bushing the width of the spring, which is pressed into the spring eye and a steel bushing the width of the bracket which slides into the aluminum bushing.
The hangers required some clearancing.
Other than that, it was pretty painless.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Oct 2007
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If you are really serious about this:
Make sure you have a quality set of shocks.
Get as much weight off the front of the truck as possible. Moving the fuel tank and battery to the rear will make a huge difference in traction.
If you don't want to clearance your hangers like Charlie did, get a set of dent hangers, they are 1/4in wider.
I had a 67 GTX way back in the early 80s. Mopar used to sell a traction kit that consisted of a axle plate with a shock mount and a shock mount that bolted to the frame. The traction bar was a shock, although ridgley connected on both ends the shock moved with the suspension and was pretty effective. It is a cheap and easy mod.
Make sure you have a quality set of shocks.
Get as much weight off the front of the truck as possible. Moving the fuel tank and battery to the rear will make a huge difference in traction.
If you don't want to clearance your hangers like Charlie did, get a set of dent hangers, they are 1/4in wider.
I had a 67 GTX way back in the early 80s. Mopar used to sell a traction kit that consisted of a axle plate with a shock mount and a shock mount that bolted to the frame. The traction bar was a shock, although ridgley connected on both ends the shock moved with the suspension and was pretty effective. It is a cheap and easy mod.
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