Refer back to my reply #28 where I explain the flashing CEL.
A code is set and CEL turned on once the requires number of misfires counts occur and does not clear up.
The program is set up this way to prevent short tem or false code triggers.
Same with the 401 EGR code.
Same with the 45-60 mph shudder that is not in on a hard basis where the program actually cancels the misfire code when the fault goes away, therefore not setting a code or CEL to tell what coil is faulty. The way this one is found is using a Scanner to look at mode 6, test 53, cylinder monitors for any with high counts.
Good luck.

 

When the misfire count per 1000 revolutions exceeds a specific level, the PCM causes the CEL to flash. (This is a Type "B" misfire and the flashing CEL indicates that damage to the CAT is predicted.)

When the misfire count drops below that specific level the PCM causes the CEL to stay on steady. (This is a Type "A" misfire and its level is designed to minimize CAT damage.)

And if the misfire count drops below the required minimum level the PCM will turn the CEL off.

These misfire threshold levels vary depending on speed and load.

 

That sounds logical. On the way home the light went out while coasting down hills, then came on under light acceleration and flashed going up hills where I had to drop it out of OD just to climb and kept it there all the way home 70 miles. I imagine damage was done as the exhaust is now louder than before the COP failure. The engine cyl temp also climbed to just over 200 degs.

Question again Is: Now that they're most likely damaged and also having so many miles on them, should I but factory Ford CATS that cost a fortune or will the aftermarket "Eastern Catalitic" brand or another work well with the NON-PI 98' 02 sensors and OE computer in my newer 03' PI 5,4L replacement engine? I've been told to keep all the electronics 98' in the swap.

 

Take all this in order.
If the cats are damaged to the point they are failing to do 'their' job, codes will set. They will be either or both 420/430 depending on which bank/s has the damage.
There can be mechanical blockage without this type failure that could cause loss of power and would have to be identified with a back pressure test.
Don't change cats until you prove them faulty.
OEM cats are built to last a very long time by their size and cost.
After market 'rear' units tend to be smaller in comparison to OEM as the length of time for life of the truck vs the life of the cats is now a consideration in reducing the cost.
Aftermarket will work and should last the rest of the truck's life.
I have been through this on bank 1, have aftermarket cats in place and now heading for 212k miles.
Do check the rear Ox sensor position as compaired to stock angle because if positioned straight up it won't work due to interference with the cab floor. Get under and take a look.
Be sure to first find the offending coil causing the misfire.
This is done by using a Scanner to look at mode 6 test 53 at the individual cylinder misfire monitors for the counts out of range or to high.
The coil your looking for has 'shorted' turns and is not a hard failure so may not set a code.
.
Also, the cats activity can be looked at by calling up the rear Ox sensor output activity. They should not have much of a swing if the cats are still good by comparing to the fronts that do swing normally (unless they are damaged) from the misfire condition. In other words if they both swing nearly as much, the cats are not working very well. This is how we and the PCM tells what condition the cats are in by inference/reference to the Ox sensor activity.
We've squeezed the buffalo on this subject pretty good.
Good luck.

 

Valuable information, Thanks Bluegrass and the rest of you. As I stated much earlier, the coil was replaced immediately after getting home from 70 miles away. The trouble code came up during the event on my Edge Evolution along with the CEL: #1 COP. I replaced it and at the time & found lots of clear oil inside the boot. Cleaned out and replaced coil and plug because it was going bad as well. Started and has been running good with no additional code beyond the P1000 that cleared itself after a few drives. The exhaust is noticeably louder now but still no more codes or CEL. I did remember smelling something on that 70 miles drive back while the misfire was occurring. After replacement the smell was gone and I erased codes with the EDGE Evolution Programmer.

I expect to get at least another 100K out of the truck, that's why I asked about the CATS and the new engine transplant coming as soon as I get the time??? The truck doesn't currently have enough power to pull much of anything so fishing will be out of the question unless I can set up our other car to pull our other smaller boat. There's been a RR exhaust manifold leak well before the COP event for some 5000 miles or so slowly getting worse. That along with the high miles, loss in power, and blacker than normal oil at changes, prompted me to get a newer used engine to drop in so I can get back to towing things again powerfully and quietly. I had hoped to keep it going throughout the summer before the swap but fate intervened. It's time to come out and drop that 03' PI replacement engine in along with other upgrades: Headers and E-fans. The OE engine has given very reliable service and has never left me by the side of the road and still gets 18 mpg hwy.

If I can get a good deal on OE Ford cats and SS y-pipe assembly I will go that route especially since I can recoup a few hundred dollars recycling the old cats assembly for the precious metals inside. If not, what "brand" aftermarket cat and pipe assembly would you recommend be the best replace for the OE?

Thanks!

 

Glad you got it fixed!

Huh? I thought it was "running good"?

Between each exhaust pulse there is the chance that when the pulse goes negative it will suck in some oxygen. The O2 sensor will see the excess oxygen. The PCM will richen up that bank to try and use the excess oxygen. That bank running rich will not do the CAT any favors.

Put one of those infared heat sensors on the CATs and see if they are doing anything.

Or better yet, have that EDGE thing graph the HO2Ss before and after the CAT so you can see if the CAT is capable of storing oxygen. (Hate to see you replace the CATs only to end up with no change.)

That might just be the fact that your oil has a good detergent package and it is doing its job.

My son put Gibson headers on his 2000 4.6. He admits he can't feel any difference in power. But the stainless steel looks nicer when the front wheels are off.

 

Quote

Quote:
Originally Posted by BFTUFF
The truck doesn't currently have enough power to pull much of anything
Huh? I thought it was "running good"?

It does. It starts right up and runs as smooth as can be, but the power and milage is not what it used to be especially in hot weather. I tried to pull an empty utility trailer last year in the 80's, it would barely pull it, but did much better in cooler weather. The OE engine is just worn out. I bought it used back in 05'. It was a former fleet truck that some one had revitalized. It is 15 years old and has no rust on the body. That is truly amazing for a MN vehicle. I get it sprayed with "Rustcheck" every other year and touch it up myself on the odd years. Just looked at new trucks today and my jaw hit the ground when I saw what they're getting for them, $35-50K. Even used trucks 2010-12 are asking $20-30K. Dropping a used engine in excellent condition in the truck now will be well worth the effort and very cost effective. The old/current engine will still be worth some good cash, $500.00 at least the way it sits.

I guess I will have a tech at the dealership check out the cats and see what they say about them. I'm not going to spend money on new cats if I don't have to, of coarse. I remember talking to a tech the last time it was in and several of them said the aftermarket cats don't work well with the OE systems in these trucks. That's why I wanted to know what's the best aftermarket "brand" of replacement cat/pipe assembly and if they'd last 100k with the newer engine or go ahead and find a deal on new OE cats if they do turn out to be damaged.

I've watched several YouTube videos on removing exhaust manifold studs and hell, it'd just be easier to pull it and do the swap taking care of the exhaust manifold studs on an engine stand instead of going through the hell of removing all the frozen/broken ones while still in the truck. I emailed "Stage Eight" on their bolts to see if they were SS to minimize future corrosion problems. ARP also sell some. 8mm 1.25 x 25. The engineers at all three american automakers went with that small 8mm-ish stud down from the old 3/8ths size I never had trouble with in the past. I think it took then a while to figure out aluminum heads: all the spark plug issues, head gaskets, exhaust manifold studs, intake sealing.. etc. That newer 6.2L has the larger studs again. Not sure about the 5.0L coyote.