They are very hard to get to on my truck, that alone makes me want long term HQ parts. Plus my time is worth a lot to me, not to be wasted! Quality pays for itself. Safety is paramount to me, I won't put myself or my passengers in a dangerous side of the road situation if I can avoid it! I'll pick quality every time the way I was taught and raised, and the only real logical choice. Buying poor quality anything is like throwing your money out the window, bye bye...........$$$$$$..........

 

How do you know the quality is lower ? Price does not mean quality. Do you think FORD has a factory and makes coils ?

 

i also believe at times that factory parts are better. but the more i read about COP's, im not seeing ta huge rate of reliability. my buddy has a set of 40,000 volt from summit on his truck and put 6 years of hard core miles on his truck no problems

 

In almost all cases it does. Motorcraft makes many of Fords parts, in this case the COP's. Ford does farm out other parts that all have to meet their stringent specifications. Also historically, Ford has made more of it's own parts than any automotive manufacturer in history. The River Rouge plant back in the day even made it own steel. Out of which it made 100% of it's own parts right on the property. The iron oar shipped directly from the mines in northern MN to Fords own steel plant in detroit at the RR complex. They also made there own tire from raw rubber shipped in from across the world at the same plant in Detroit. At the time the largest manufacturing plant of any kind in the world without which we would likely be under **** control today. I just saw a documentary on it recently.

Nearly every thread on this site professional mechanics say use only Mototcraft/Autolite plugs and Motorcraft COP's for these modular engines. There's a good chance those Ebay specials your using are junk Chinese knock offs illegally imported and sold here. The Chinese are flooding the world with there illegal junk, not to say everything made in China is bad. There government is rigorously stealing American and other countries corporate designs and secrets without worry of patent infringement. It's a huge problem world wide. Our government seizes thousands of tons of it every month.

After perusing my service records last night, I found that this last COP I just changed lasted 9 years/55,000 miles (installed 05' at the dealership) and temperature variances of -35 F to over 100 degs F. I think that qualifies as quality compared to 1 years service cheapies. Try using cheap rings and bearings in your engine and see how long it lasts? Those "made in China" brake rotors are lucky to last a year without warping, garbage!

 

well you dont have a clue about what your talking about. Just your opinion. Ford does NOT make a lot of their parts inhouse, they farm them out. Spark plugs are a know problelm and buing the MOTOCRAFT brand is a must. COPS dont fall in that catagory. I said i loose maybe 1 COP per year. I drive 15K per year so lets say one "cheapy" last 15k, the others last 30K, 45K, 60K .... Thats a rough estimate. I must have quite a few lasting 60K miles or more. You have one fail at 55K... so what ? Im all for using USA parts, but im also looking for a bargain. Some things need to be OEM, some dont. Who said use cheap bearings ? I overhauled several construction motors and a lot of the parts pistons, rings, liners come from "not USA"... that does not mean low quality .. may or may not, you have to have experience with it......... And on brake discs, i needed a set 8 years ago and Auto Zone only had "cheap" that day and i was in a hurry. They were actually .040 inch THICKER than OEM and i ran them 75K miles with absolutely no problem.

 

Your welcome to your opinion, albeit misguided? I'll keep buying quality parts and always find the best deal $ on them. In the climate I live in, that chinese junk doesn't last. Glad I'm not on your Christmas list! Have a nice day and simmer down.

 

Ford should be forced to update and recall all for COP issues. It is ridiculous that they would replace a coil system that often lasted the life of vehicle with these garbage design. On my 01 they didn't even create a seal where the boot goes into head and that is just malicious design to get you coming back.
I'm certain I'm on my last Detroit vehicles. GM also terrrible if you watched news. I can vouch because I had 09 Malibu and 11 Lacrosse that both had braking issues along with a long list of other problems so I lemoned both.

 

seems like all the companies are having recalls these days. I think the FED keeps closer watchout for safety problems these days... Japaneese cars have had brake problems, accelerator problems (recently) , and use to rot out in 5 years... Some of those problems are gone now.

 

Q: Potential damage caused by #1 COP misfiring all the way back on 70 mile trip. On the way back the CEL came on once the shutter started from the #1 COP going bad. I had no choice but to drive home the remaining distance (70 miles). During which the CEL light would come on while driving steady turn off under light acceleration and come on and flash while encountering a load going up moderately long hills, then return to the aforementioned status. When I got it home there was a noticeably louder drone coming from the exhaust. After reading up on the symptoms it sounds like I may have caused catalytic converter damage. After repairing the COP it starts and runs smooth but with low power and the ever present RR (preexisting) exhaust manifold leak still getting more pronounced. The power is down a bit more and there is a louder drone from the exhaust as I already explained. Could the unburned gases from one misfiring COP cause the cat and or the muffler to go bad or have gotten worse?

If so and since I'm swapping out the 98' OE 5.4L non-PI for an 03' 5.4L PI with 100k and great compression would it be smart to replace the cats? If so is there a difference other than cost between new OE Ford cats and aftermarket, "Eastern Catalytic" for example. The local Ford A-techs told me these trucks only like the OE Ford cats.

If replacing cats while doing the engine swap, should I use cats for a 98' or an 03'? Rock auto shows a difference between the two year models being transmission size on the 03' 4R70W, My 98' has the E4OD. What with what to make it all work together properly and not ruin any further cats $$$$? Remember when swapping, I will be using my newly purchased JBA Titanium coated shorties instead of the OE cast iron manifolds. It's going to be a giant PITA, but I can't afford a new or even slightly used truck, plus mine is in excellent condition given 14.5 years, no rust and recently rebuilt tranny.

 

When the CEL light comes on for COP failure, it does not go off untill it is cleared. You had / have a second problem.

 

The codes are clear now after installing the new COP and driving it a few hundred miles, Even the P1000 has cleared. Another thing is that I got a 1 mpg boost in milage since the replacement. That coil must have been on the way out for some time.

 

OK, i think the flashing light was due to the P1000 code. What i was trying to say is, once the P0301 (or other) code is set, it will not go out untill you clear or pull the battery cable. The light will not flash under P0301. You can still have a bad #1 COP, just not bad enough to setoff the code. Its good that both codes are now clear. I have also driven 40-50 miles with a bad cop, but have not had ongoing problmes after change out.

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Symptoms of a P1000 DTC will include MIL (Malfunction indicator lamp) illumination and that should be it. There shouldn't be any other symptoms unless you have other DTCs.
Potential Causes

Potential causes of a P1000 include:

• The battery or PCM has been disconnected (Ford,Mazda)
• The diagnostic trouble codes have been cleared (Ford,Mazda)
• An OBD monitor concern occured before completion of the drive cycle (Ford)

Possible Solutions

Although this may be considered a common Ford DTC, it's very minor. You in fact can safely ignore this code and it should go away as part of normal driving, you do not need to clear this code (as it may not actually turn off the MIL). If you want to the code to clear itself, faster, run through the Ford Drive Cycle.
However, if you have other trouble codes, the MIL will stay on as there are other issues.

 

CODE P1000 does not light a CEL on the dash.
It does not cause any flashing CEL.
Look it up and see what it is for.
The 1000 code is not a primary fault code but a PID monitor code..
It tells you when viewed with a Scanner, that one or more of the 7 test PIDS are not complete.
It clears when all tests are done, complete and pass.
The EVAP system takes the longest time to complete because of it's many levels of tests performed. Until it clears the 1000 will be present.
.
A flashing CEL is an indication the system provides when there is a possibility of cylinder ignition failure that will cause raw gas to be passed through the cylinder to the CATS where it could burn, overheat, and melt the cat structure causing additional damage beyond a missing/dead cylinder..
Instructions with a replacement CAT would tell you to be sure you repair any misfires before installing a new CAT assembly.
Good luck.

 

P1000 was not the worry, it took care of itself as it has after many other repairs. I wanted to know how likely it was that CAT damage could occur after driving 70 miles with a misfire happening. And the other questions I had. Sorry for asking for so much info. Hope your all having a nice weekend and don't forget those we've lost who've given us the freedom we enjoy today ✟.

 

"A flashing CEL is an indication the system provides when there is a possibility of cylinder ignition failure that will cause raw gas to be passed through the cylinder to the CATS where it could burn, overheat, and melt the cat structure causing additional damage beyond a missing/dead cylinder.".


what sets that off Bluegrass ? I have never seen the flashing CEL. When i get a COP failure the light seems slow to come on, but then it is constant untill replaced..