First on many questions
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First on many questions
Just bought a 1955 f100 as a long term father son project with my 10 year old. The front floor, firewall and cab mounts are pretty well shot. Previous owner started cutting and didn't brace very well. Was wondering if someone could measure from the seam at the top of the firewall (engine side) straight down to the top of the frame. Trying to figure out exactly were to weld the cab mounts to the A-pillar. Tried searching but could not find it. Thanks
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 15,882
Likes: 88
From: Durham NC
Let me be a Dutch Uncle to you and your son: If the cab is that far gone and cut up, I'd highly recommend finding another solid one. The slant cabs (53-55) are all the same all the way up into the big job models and near to rust free ones can be easily found for a few hundred dollars. Patch panels will cost you twice that and trying to resquare a cut up cab is going to be a lesson in frustration for even a highly experienced body man.
Second, don't put a dime or minute more into it until you verify that you have a transferable title for the truck you have, then go ahead and transfer it. It's getting more difficult by the day to secure a title to an old truck. Minimum you need is a valid title or registration that matches the number stamped on top the passenger side frame rail between the firewall and axle, otherwise all you likely have is an unregisterable pile of parts, aka lawn art.
Second, don't put a dime or minute more into it until you verify that you have a transferable title for the truck you have, then go ahead and transfer it. It's getting more difficult by the day to secure a title to an old truck. Minimum you need is a valid title or registration that matches the number stamped on top the passenger side frame rail between the firewall and axle, otherwise all you likely have is an unregisterable pile of parts, aka lawn art.
FTE Legend
Joined: Oct 2005
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From: northwestern Ontario
You are likely in need of rocker panels too by the sounds of it, which should be changed out first. I'm in the process of replacing a complete floor and half section of firewall now on a 56 cab. Measurements will be the same in the areas you are requesting. If you measure 1/2" down from the bottom of the lower hinge pocket that is where the floor sits, your cab mount sits on the foor and welded to the door post and to the triangular support gusset.
Are we there yet?
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 1,098
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From: NW Valley AZ
Like AX said, it may be a much better option to replace the cab.
I'm not sure where you are located but if you are not too far from Gilbert, AZ, Johnny's F100's has cabs... and most any other part for F100's.
F100 Ford Cabs, 1956,1955,1954,1953
I'm not sure where you are located but if you are not too far from Gilbert, AZ, Johnny's F100's has cabs... and most any other part for F100's.
F100 Ford Cabs, 1956,1955,1954,1953
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Thanks for the help from everyone so far. First, I am in Indiana, and cabs here are very hard to find, especially rust free cabs. Second, I gave almost nothing for it, and most of the patch panels were purchased by the previous owner. Actually paid less for everything than the total of all the new parts that came with it. And yes, it does need new rockers, which came with the truck. The floor sitting 1/2" below the bottom of the lower door hinge pocket will work for the number I needed, thanks 56panelford. And yes, the current and valid title matches the plate inside the glove box and on the front right frame rail. Thanks again, I am sure it won't be the last advise I need...
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 4,995
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From: u-rah-rah Wisconsin
This may be an option it you are considering the replacement cab path: 1950 ford f100 rolling chassis
FTE Legend
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 283,683
Likes: 8,269
From: northwestern Ontario
This may be an option it you are considering the replacement cab path: 1950 ford f100 rolling chassis
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Cargo Master
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 2,578
Likes: 208
From: Murfreesboro, Tennessee
bwallen,
Im from a small town in Northeast Indiana called Fort Wayne. I live in TN now. Let me know if you need parts I know of a real good source outside Toledo just over the Michigan state line.
Im from a small town in Northeast Indiana called Fort Wayne. I live in TN now. Let me know if you need parts I know of a real good source outside Toledo just over the Michigan state line.
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FTE Legend
Joined: Oct 2005
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From: northwestern Ontario
Thanks for the help from everyone so far. First, I am in Indiana, and cabs here are very hard to find, especially rust free cabs. Second, I gave almost nothing for it, and most of the patch panels were purchased by the previous owner. Actually paid less for everything than the total of all the new parts that came with it. And yes, it does need new rockers, which came with the truck. The floor sitting 1/2" below the bottom of the lower door hinge pocket will work for the number I needed, thanks 56panelford. And yes, the current and valid title matches the plate inside the glove box and on the front right frame rail. Thanks again, I am sure it won't be the last advise I need...
You may have already done this but if not, to make sure you cab is squared up make sure all the gaps around the doors are even, then brace the cab on the inside by tack welding good solid tubing to the door posts as well as a diagonal brace so the cab can't twist after you remove the doors. I also drilled 1/8" holes in the hinges for indexing when the doors go back on.
Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2006
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From: Brentwood, TN
Just bought a 1955 f100 as a long term father son project with my 10 year old. The front floor, firewall and cab mounts are pretty well shot. Previous owner started cutting and didn't brace very well. Was wondering if someone could measure from the seam at the top of the firewall (engine side) straight down to the top of the frame. Trying to figure out exactly were to weld the cab mounts to the A-pillar. Tried searching but could not find it. Thanks
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The first thing I did was to rehang the doors and get a near perfect fit. Had to use some ratchet straps to pull hear and there. After both doors were on and I was satisfied I started bracing. Actually just tack welded small plates in three places on the drivers side and left that door in place for now. Then jumped inside and welded a couple braces on the door opening of the passenger side before removing the passenger door. Rear cab mounts are solid and it is sitting properly on those. I feel that I have everything very close. I am waiting on my cab mounts from midfifty.com so I can sit the floor pans at the proper spacing off the frame. The reason I was looking for the measurement from the top seam on the firewall to the top of the frame is that I have a piece of square tube laying across the front frame rails with another piece running up to that seam to keep the cab from nose diving until the cab mounts are replaced. The floor 1/2" below the bottom of the cab mount is exactly were I had it sitting. Thanks again for the help, I am sure I will need more as time goes by...
Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 8,093
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From: Brentwood, TN
I just got a 54 cab back from sandblasting today. When I get it unloaded and set up in the shop I can take some measurements for you. Aligning the cab to the doors may work but I would use some caution, these trucks were designed to have the doors "bent" to match the cab...if yours are tweaked then you may be casting that tweak in stone in your cab. Sounds like you are on the right track with the bracing however. Here is a pic of the last 56 floor repair that I did...no bracing needed when accurate dimensions are available/applied.
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