Your unusual appearing carburetors are either Model 2140s introduced by Lincoln in 1953 or Model 4000s which made its debut atop Ford’s entry in the Detroit horsepower sweepstakes- the 292 cubic-inch “Y” block. Both models were rated at 370cfm. During 1956 Ford used the strange-look Model 4000 in single and dual four-barrel installations, but by 1957 the new style intake manifold (casting number ECZ 9425-B) and the Model 4150 had replaced the older design in all applications except the 265-horsepower, dual four-barrel equipped 312. The 1956 model 292 and 312 distributors did not have a mechanical advance but rather a dual vacuum advance diaphragm. The Model 4000 has a venturi vacuum source that was used in conjunction with manifold vacuum for these distributors.
The Model 2140 and 4000 carburetors have a square intake manifold bolt pattern. The intake manifold bolt pattern on 1957 and later carburetors is 5 3/16” by 5 5/8”. All that is to say no, you can not put later version carburetors on a manifold with a square bolt pattern.
A final point, if the volumetric efficiency of your 239 CID is 80% and you turn it 7000 RPM, it will flow 387cfm. Do not put more put more carburetor on an engine than it can possibly use. I learned this lesson the hard (expensive) way on a 292. I ended up with a new Holley rated at 465cfm (part no. R1848-1) on an ECZ 9425-B intake manifold. This combination provides much better overall performance and definitely better throttle responsiveness.
By the way, I did my researching in Dave Emanuel's "Super Tuning and Modifying Holley Carburetors" manual which I would recommend to anyone doing anything with a Holley. I built an Excel model that computes engine CID and CFM that I will email you.

 

I have been reading this thread and I am wondering if the Rochester 4GC or Carter WCFB would fit the manifold. The 4GC was a great little carb and GM used it up until 1966 I believe. The WCFB was a little more complicated with metering rods to get reset if you took it apart.
I also saw one of those old upright Holleys in a second hand store a couple months ago. It was a 2 bbl. version with a governor. It was a reman that had never been ran.
I also wanted to add that I ran a 600 Holley on a 312 in an old pickup and it ran flawlessly and got pretty decent mileage. It would seem a little big according to the formula.

 

This is going to seem very "stupid", but has anyone ever heard of running one 4bbl and leaving the 2nd on just as a dummy? It seems like either the front or rear cylinders would get more fuel (depending on which was the dummy). And no, the dummy behind the steering wheel doesn't think he'll do that.

....unless someone could talk my into it!

 

I wouldn't use just the front or the rear carb, but you could disable the secondaries on both carbs. If you run a vac secondary carbs, you can put the heaviest spring in the secondaries and I doubt they would ever open.

 

Hello,

Just wanted to let you know that I have been working on these old Holley Teapots or whatever you want to call them since 1968. I agree they are more difficutt to assemble correctly than most other carbs, however they don't scare me. I can do anything from small repairs to total restorations for show cars. If you need anymore info or help let me know. Information is free, and my work is cheaper than the average person and guarenteed for function and to be leakproof. Also, I agree and disagree with some of the info you have been told by other members. If I can help, let me know.

Thanks, Sal Cicala.

 

Ah yes, the infamous Towering Inferno as they were called then.

Used 54 thru 56 on Ford, Merc and Lincolns. The 56 T Bird used them with the 256 Edelbrock but in 57 Ford wised up and used Carter WCFB's on the 257. These 2 x 4 setups were dealer install only.

Some assembly plants refused to use them and you will find many 56 models, especially Mercs, with a WCFB.
Another one that will fit is the Rochester 4G small base.

However if you are intent in staying with a Loadomatic distributor then you will have to hunt down the scarce WCFB with a venturi vacuum port.

Good conversation piece or for a correct resto but not something for a daily driver unless you have fire insurance and a sense of adventure.

 

I haven't had anybody post on this tread in a while!

Somebody emailed me wanting them and I've lost their email address. If your still out there, email again.

I'm sure I'm not going to put them on my 239. They are supposed to have very small port in the heads. I'm already getting 9.5 MPG with the one barrel!

 

That carb should be a EBV 2 bbl but 9.5mpg??
I was getting 11-13 on the 239 in my 54 F350 but that also has a 5.14 rear and I did a fair amount of highway with it. With a load to boot.

A ECG series off a 272/292 has a larger venturi and will give a small boost in oomph.

Something is wrong with that mileage, have you done a tune up and compression test? Is the vacuum dizzy even functioning?

 

I put in a 9" rear that I know has a 3.90:1 gearing. It runs a little better at 55, but it is still too tall.

Most of my MPG problems I think are from the electric fuel pump the former owner put on. I think it is putting too much pressure in the carb. The carb needs a rebuild. Maybe that will get me better MPG.

There are 2 adjustment screws on the back of my 1 barrel (maybe this is a 2V carb?). What do they adjust?

 

All 239 thru 292's have a 2bbl as the basic carb.
Those screws are for idle adjustment. Ballpark is to screw them in all the way (just till you barely feel them stop) then back out both 1 1/2 turns.
If it makes little or no difference as you do this then the carb is in serious need of a rebuild. Same if one side is way different than the other.
You will also have linkage on the drivers side to adjust the pump shot. There are 3 holes that select the stroke. Shortest stroke for best mpg, longest for power.

Use an inline fuel pressure regulator and set for 2#. If it is running too high it will weep gas and also wash the cylinder walls; not a good idea.

 

Thanks Carl - this is just what I'm looking for.

 

I should have added that the 1 1/2 turns is a ballpark, you might have to go up to about 1/2 turn either way but both sides should be close.

An excellent way is to use a vacuum gauge, run it off the back of the carb thru a T or just leave the dizzy with no vacuum for the test. Tune for maximum vacuum, go back and forth both sides until it is maxed.

Another way is if you have a shop buddy with an exhaust gas analyzer.