I have a couple of questions. I have a '72 460 from what I guess is a Lincoln (V in cast#).I want to build this for a truck to pull my '72 Bronco.

First of all, I have a D1VE-A2B block with D2VE-AA heads, are these special at all,(thicker block, better heads, compression?) I will use them regardless because it is a low budget build. The heads have thermactor bosses but are not drilled and the holes are not in the ends of the heads. If I grind these bumps down will I hit a hole or are they solid. The heads have bolt down rockers and I haven't measured the valves yet. If I do a little porting on these heads will it actually help any if it never sees over 4000 rpm? I am going for the smallest cam I can find and want to build this for nothing but TORQUE.

Next, my plan is to use the stock 4-bbl intake cuz you guys say it's pretty good and because I'm poor. I think I'll end up with a Holly 600 vac. sec. Is this carb too small? I know some 460's came with 2-bbls so it can't hurt. Plus I figure it will help with the torque if I don't go too big on the carb.

I've built several small blocks for my Mustang but never a HOSS like this thing. ARe there any tricks that apply only to the 460?

This is the part you guys will like, this engine along with a C-6, NP208, and axles from an Early Bronco will soon reside in a '79 Jeep Cherokee. I figured the only thing good about the Jeep was the body so I decided to put some real parts in it!

Any help is appreciated.
Thanks

 

hi flpanhead, how's everything going? want some torque eh? well on your block sounds like a standard production block with a couple of engeneering changes nothing major. on to the heads they are '72 heads, and yes they are a very good year as 1972 was the only year that ford produced an open chamber head, all the other years were closed chamber. some people will say that there is nothing special about these heads because they have the same valves and etc., but these are open chamber and made for only one year so you can make up your own mind,cool?, and still use as you know the 18mm plugs. these will work great for you.as for porting them out i don't think you will have a problem with the thermactor holes in the chamber, i run the same heads, and it's been so long since i had these heads off i can't remember what they looked like inside the chamber. if your not sure check with a machine shop or probally someone else here can answer the question. if you want torque the only way to go is big bore .060 overbore on the block and use either 19cc. or 22cc. dished pistons to keep your compression in check. use a quality high volume oil pump like mellings to keep well lubricated. stock rods will be fine, might just want to have them checked just to be on the safe side. and use a good timing chain like cloyes true double roller timing chain for the added security and strength. that's all for the bottom end, and new bearings. as for cams there are a few choices out there, i use a crane cam part number 353942, this is a very good cam for this kind of engine build. other will refer to other cams that's cool, everyone has there own success story. the heads have them checked out for cracks, have them do a valve job and use the valve springs that match you cams application.and be sure to have harden exhaust valve seats put in. it's a small price to pay now. the push rods and rocker arms will be fine if your on a budget. any time you can get the exhaust flowing better on these heads will be super even if your not going to see over 4000 r.p.m. a stock manifold will work just fine but you will give up some horse power for it is stock and it weighs way to much (extremely bulky). look around and see if you can find a dual plane manifold cheap it will make a nice difference. as for a 600 holley i can't give you any advise about them, as for i've only used 750 double pumpers on engine builds like these, 750's are no problem for these combo's. if you go similar to like i layed out you will have around a 400 h.p. big block,and lots of torque to pull just about everything around in sight, like pulling your neighbor's chevy truck around the block with no problem while he has the parking brake locked down. he, he, he. atleast go .060 overbore on the block you will still get over 100,000 miles of use out of it. C.J.

 

sorry for the long post, just wanted to try to explain things thru. .060 overbore and you'll have a 472 cu. inch brute. C.J.

 

The 600 CFM Holley will work...you can use the formula:
Engine CID X Maximum RPM dived by 3456 or
460 ci. X 4000 RPM divided by 3456 = 532 CFM
As far as the rest of the engine the above post was correct...keep the cam small 204-210 duration at .050", do NOT open the intake ports only the exhausts. Go to dual exhaust as a minimum, headers if you can afford them.
P.S. Holley does not recommend the "double pumpers" for the street unless your not concerned about fuel milage.

 

I've been consemplating what street carb to get for my 460 rebuild bored .030 over . I do not want to over/under carb the engine. I've done the math mentioned above and came up with 674.18. The carbs I've seen are 600cfm and 750cfm, no 700 or 650cfm carbs. I have the Edelbrock Performer cam with a 5,500 RPM limit but for the math I put 5,000 RPM because I don't plan reving it to the limit.
I am looking for a reliable, fuel effeciant, and some performance edge so any recomendations would be greatly appreciated.

 

Hey C J. I like the idea of pulling the chXXX with the wheels locked but I think it would be more fun to pull 2 on their tops around the block.

 

Hey swall,
I would go with a 750 vacuum secondary carburetor instead of a 600 cfm model, heres why. A 600 cfm model may sound like you will be using less fuel and get better mpg, but the truth is the secondaries on a 600 cfm carb will not only open sooner than a 750 they will also open farther. At 1600-1700 rpm the 600's secondaries will start to open, (Holley carb #1850) even with the highest tensioned spring(black). With a 750(Holley #3310) it will take about 2200-2300 rpm to start secondaries to open with the "black" spring. Due to it's increased size the 750 is able to mix more air into the air/fuel mixture than a 600 cfm model, allowing for a leaner running engine but one that makes more power. If you jet the carbs similar, the 750 will make more power with about the same mileage! I hope this helps.

Todd
BB79RANCH

 

somthing to think about about the high volume oil pump if you still have the car pan on this might not be a good idea the car pan had a front sump vans and trucks had rear sumps with a high vol. pump and front sump you might starve the motor of oil at high rpms or hot take offs i know i HAD this problem

 

Swall, the above formula I posted is figured at 100% VE, most street engines only reach 80-85% VE with an unblown race engine reaching 95% VE and it takes a blown or supercharged engine to reach over 100%. So if you do the math a street engine that figures 670 CFM times .80 percent will come out to a real world figure of 536 CFM.
Anyway EITHER carb will do as long as your using a vacuum secondary since the engine will only open the secondaries as much as it needs. I personally would lean to the 600 CFM for torque (has smaller primaries) or 750 CFM if you like occasionaly spinning your engine ABOVE 5,000 RPM. Deen

 

[font size="1" color="#FF0000"]LAST EDITED ON 09-Feb-01 AT 11:46 PM (EST)[/font][p] There are a few "tricks" I've used over the years to build quite a few 460's. Use a good quality roller timing chain & gears that are designed for the early model 460 '68-'71(Cloyes #3122). Definitely degree in your cam, don't trust the "line up the dots" theory. I've seen 460 cranks have there keyways off as much as 6 degrees!! With your D2VE-AA heads, definitely take out the exhaust bump(a h.p. & torque increase), just smooth it with the port roof & maybe take a little off the valve guide area (if you look close it is concave where the valve stem exits the guide) not much just ease the edges. Don't worry about the exhaust port floor to about a 1/2 inch up from floor, this is essentially a dead area as far as flow is concerned. I'd port match both intake(along with manifold) and exhausts, the intake port needs nothing more than this "clean-up". When choosing a cam it is a mistake to go too big, but don't go too small either, remember your trying to feed 460 cubic inches, not 302. Stay in the 195-210 degrees of duration @ .050" lift on intake side & I recommend a cam that has about 10-15 degrees more duration @ .050" and at least .020" more total lift on the exhaust side to help out with the 460's restrictive exhaut ports(even after port work).
Of course roller rockers will help free-up h.p. they aren't a necessity. A good quality three angle valve job does wonders for these heads.
Stay with your factory intake(or at least a dual plane intake) it is very good at making torque from idle to about 4000 rpm. Headers will obviously help(about 15 h.p. & ft. lbs.torque) depending on which you choose. Stay in the 8.5 to 9.5-1 compression ratio area. Use a 160 or 180 degree thermostat, believe me, it makes a difference!
A lower compression 460 likes timing in the 36-38 degree range(maybe just a tick more), all in by 2100-2300 rpm. There is no need to do anything exotic inside the engine, just good quality parts(definitely change rear main "rope" seal to newer type rubber seal). I'd recommend a Melling high volume oil pump, not high pressure!!! When builing a 460 pay particular attention to the timing cover where water pump mounts and where water pump ports are located, over time these spots have a tendency to corrode and allow water to enter the crankcase making you think you've blown a head gasket. These are just a few "tricks" I have learned and used in the past to get a little bit more out of low compression 460's that I have built. I hope this helps in any way.


Todd
BB79RANCH

 

600 cfm carbs are too small for a moderately modified 460. I don't care what formula you use, practical experience and empirical knowledge tells me that you need at least a 750.

 

thanks ranch you actually gave me some hard numbers and info I can use.