New one is flat with a dime sized blue spot. The old one was a little scratch and that's about her

 

Post a pic if you can.

 

Blue spot ? Dished maybe ? Can you inspect the cam lobe for that lifter ..... Does not sound good .

 

Blue isn't good. Blue = heat.

 

Will try. Have to pull the cam. Two days with work and de winterizing campers. Dammit!!!

 

The one with bad looking lobe check for a bent push rod. If more then 0.020 should have been replaced, As this can cause the lifter not to spiral and wipe the lobe.. Roll push rods on the table or wife's glass top coffee table. Tell her it's for a good cause..
orich

 

A few points- Do not mix lifter positions. Lifters and lobes wear to each other, and changing them around can and will cause a worn lobe. New lifters can be used because they lack a wear pattern.
The valve may well be sticking open, either due to gunk buildup or mechanical damage. Because it happened when you started working the engine, my first reaction would be a damaged valve that is now hanging when it gets hot. I dealt with this on a motorcycle engine not that long ago, it would putt around town just fine, rev in neutral fine, but take it over 4k and it would start backfiring and lose all power. There was a carbon buildup on the exhaust valve stem that tightened it up just as it closed. Once it really heated up, everything would expand and hold the valve just a little open.
Proper diagnostic procedure is critical. Now after replacing the cam and lifters, one of the valves may still stick and cause this whole issue all over again. There is no way to know if the lobe was wiped before the used lifter was put in.
When you install the new cam and lifters, use a generous amount of assembly lube, make sure everything is as clean as it can be, and keep dirt out. Use only oil with zinc additive- Diesel rated oils have enough, or a thinner gas engine oil with ZDDPlus or similar additive can be used. The zinc is what protects the cam, no zinc and the new cam will be eaten as well, regardless of any other problems.

 

Hmm dat's would be pretty hard to do on a fe motor.
orich

 

A speaking of keeping push rods in order.
Here a little way of my mind of keeping push rods and valves in their correct order and top from the bottom.

I labeled these clothes pin as listed L1-L8 & R1-R8 and place them on the top of each Push rod before removing. Then place them in a coffee can standing up the pin over the top edge of the can or your container. Clean one at a time try not to remove the lettering for it's order removed. Works for me.
orich

 

If you already haven't done it, my recommendation is to borrow a dial indicator and measure the valve lift on each cylinder. You can also do it with a scale on the spring. A cam lobe bad enough to throw a push rod will be evident.

 

From what the OP has said about things, it does not sound like a FE me. Then again I could have miss read the post too…

 

At this point a picture of the two lifters and the rocker-arm setup would help to clear any confusion.

 

I've never seen a blue heat spot on a bad lifter under side. Thinking about what would cause this type of condition under normal running. We know a Blue spot is a metal to metal burn due to not enough oil or none being pumped throughout the engine.

1. Could the pump rod dropped and engine started and run until it make valve lifter noises?
2. Over tighten rocker and not enough lash or not in rocker socket when rockers installed?
3. As said the push rod popped out of the lifter seat.
4. Lifter over heated and burned on it's cam face.
5. If valve has stuck with in it's guild could have caused this condition yes *
6. To check for a sticking valve in it's guild rotate the valve in question with spring removed as it's moved with in it's travel length.
7. Any damage done to cam and it will surely need replacing.
8. A few things we don't know that may have happened or did.
9. Could valve be sunken deeper in the seat then others that maybe the cause for this to happen
10. These are things we don't know that could or have happen for this condition or not
Checked and need to be..
orich

 

well to be honest, I haven't ripped it down, measured the lobes, or checked a whole lot of anything.... In my heart, I killed the cam. So I have a new one on order, it is a 33-238-4 comp cams, camshaft... the push tubes have .050 on the side of them, not sure the number.... Didn't label them, not going too... I understand my flaw and failure.... waiting for my new timing chain, and camshaft.... if that don't work... well then its time for serious reconstruction and making an absolute monster out of what I have. probably an anchor

 

Please set up and break in the new one in accordance with the instructions. Check everything thoroughly, twice.