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Bump the motor. Once the rocker moves tighten the other one?
Turn the motor by hand with the proper socket on the crank bolt . Watch the valve train while turning . Do not " bump " the motor over while working on the valve train .
If I am setting valves , not so often anymore , I wait until the one valve on a cyl. is near compressed . I then adjust the other on that cyl . I work my way down the banks in that order ,marking each with a grease pencil after adjusting .
If I am setting valves , not so often anymore , I wait until the other valve on a cyl. is near compressed . I then adjust the other on that cyl . I work my way down the banks in that order ,marking each with a grease pencil after adjusting .
And that's with the zero lash plus half turn at least? And if they are too tight then what does the motor do?
Valve adjustment: One cylinder at a time. Rotate the engine just until the exhaust starts to open. Then, adjust the intake valve on that cylinder to zero valve lash (just until you start to feel drag on the pushrod.) Then tighten an additional 1/2 turn. Lock the lock nut.
Next, rotate the engine and watch the intake valve as it opens and begins to close. Just before the intake valve completely closes is when you adjust the exhaust valve.
Repeat for each cylinder.
I will have to measure to be sure. Just eye balled but that's what I'm thinking too
That would also cause it to fall
Apart. Yes indeed it would. Dammit!
Sometimes its difficult to understand what someone is trying to explain through written text.
That's why I said to fish the lifter out with a magnet and inspect the face. I toasted lobe will show up right away on the lifter.
As I recall you had a new one in there and then a "good" used one. Look at both and let us know what they look like. Running a used worn lifter can wipe a cam lobe.