I have a 1972 Ford F100 with a 360 with a unknown mileage... probably 250,000 or so. I bought it and it ran ok. I took it to my mechanic (Cousin) and he got it timed and it ran good for a while I replaced the valve cover gaskets and it ran ok. ( I know, nothing to do with how it runs.) I had to replace the battery and it had a hard time staying running after I replaced it. I left the hood open where I could see and noticed one of the plug wires was interfering with the throttle. I turned the truck off and moved the wire to a safe place where it wouldn't get caught in the spring going to the carburetor. While moving it I noticed that the distributer was loose. I tightened it down and tried to start it. It ran for about 3-5 seconds and died. it did this several times. I moved the distributer a bit in advance and a bit in retard. neither way helped it run any better. it backfired a few times. I had my mechanic take a look at it and he made sure it was close when the #1 cylinder is at tdc. I tried to start it again and it backfired again. he tried moving the distributor in about every position and it wouldn't run or it would backfire. The truck wont stay running, the pressure coming from the fuel pump is good and the filter is clean. does anyone have any ideas??

 

Were they still using points in 1972? If so, I would focus on that first.

Sent from my iPhone using IB AutoGroup

 

Yes they had points in '72,

You could have a bad condenser it is located under the cap in the distributor.

 

does that entail replacing the whole distributer? I am not mechanically inclined, so I dont know...

 

No, but it would be a place to focus on. They had their own little routine for a long time. They need to be "set", that is the point gap checked and adjusted, make sure all the wires are tight, etc. your buddy who timed it should have done that I'd guess. Loose is not good though. If you have a timing light or a vacuum gauge you can get the timing set if you can get it running.

Are you getting a good strong blue spark at the plugs?


Sent from my iPhone using IB AutoGroup

 

No it does not, it is a small part inside held down with two screws and one wire lead that connects to the points real easy to do.

 

I had a similar problem once. With the distributor loose it would run, but when I tightened it down it wouldn't start. It was a short inside the distributor on the hot side of the points grounding out just a little, with the bad dist. ground to the block from being loose it grounded just enough to run (though not all that well!) but once I tightened it down and got a better ground connection it was too much for it. One of those weird things that leaves you scratching your head and chasing the wrong problems. You might check that out...

 

Check the wires to be on the correct spark plugs. In other words, firing order. When doing valve cover gaskets you might have put them back on the wrong plugs by accident.

 

[quote=Tedster9;14316487] If you have a timing light or a vacuum gauge you can get the timing set if you can get it running.

Are you getting a good strong blue spark at the plugs?


I have a vacuum gauge but have never used it to time an engine. Do you shoot for a specific number more than by the sound of the engine?

 

Kind of. An engine at idle should have a certain amount that can be measured. Healthy V8s, stock cam, should pull 17-20 inches at sea level. If the engine doesn't something is wrong - bad valves, worn rings, all kinds of things. But can also use this for tuning by adjusting the advance on the distributor; timing will vary the engine vacuum. Usually a setting close to, but not at the maximum, is right in there for best performance and economy. It's a good way to double check against a light, too. Be careful with too much advance, gasoline is not what it used to be, and there is more to timing than just setting the initial, or "base" timing.

Sent from my iPhone using IB AutoGroup

 

[quote=Tedster9;14321264]Kind of. An engine at idle should have a certain amount that can be measured. Healthy V8s, stock cam, should pull 17-20 inches at sea level. If the engine doesn't something is wrong - bad valves, worn rings, all kinds of things. But can also use this for tuning by adjusting the advance on the distributor; timing will vary the engine vacuum. Usually a setting close to, but not at the maximum, is right in there for best performance and economy. It's a good way to double check against a light, too. Be careful with too much advance, gasoline is not what it used to be, and there is more to timing than just setting the initial, or "base" timing.

Which vacuum port is the right to use?