First of all I really appreciate any and all help I can get with this truck. I absolutely love the ole 7.3 but my patience is wearing thin.

2000 F250, Auto, 7.3, 4x4, ARP head studs, Comp springs, 38r turbo, Swamps 250/200cc hybrids, Swamps tunes, full gauges, cold air, 5 inch straight pipe, upgraded boot, etc. 225,000 MILES.

I installed the swamps injectors a couple months ago. After 2 weeks I lost a nozzle on one. It just broke. Could have been from multiple things, who knows. Swamps fully warrantied it, I sent them all 8 and they tested all 8 and replaced nozzle AND shipped back to me free of charge.

Well after reassembly I couldn't get truck to start. I replaced, valve cover gaskets, batteries, and sensor after sensor. After over a thousand dollars of part replacement I decided to get AutoEnginuity. It showed 15lbs of oil pressure at idle. So HPOP was in question but before that I replaced the regulator thing on the back of it. When I pulled mine out it was 'loose' sounding inside, I shoved the new one in and it fired right up. IT IS RUNNING AGAIN.

BUT now I have a low RPM miss sorta. Like a gas engine without a plug wire. Seems to run fine with boost, but just luggin around it vibrates bad. OH and it smokes terrible. But its fuel smoke.

When the injector failed, I lost the end of a glow plug too. SO my fear is that I have a cylinder down. But I am also contemplating that maybe I had low oil pressure at the time of the injector replacement and this is how the truck suppose to act.

Here is some video's to the truck and it running. It has blowby, but is it to much? Sorry for the long post but I was just trying to get everything included at once.

Again Thank YOU.
HPOP
Only cylinder that is changing at the moment, but #3 is the one I lost injector in and not this one.

truck running down the road:

 

Did you run a compression test prior to installing the injectors? What about after the broken nozzle? It can be hard to tell from a video, but the blowby looks excessive to me.

 

I'm with Pik.
Compression test priority.

Denny

 

no compression test done, but will get to it. Would I check through the glow plug hole?

 

Yes. You'll need an adapter for it. NAPA carries the MityVac MVA-5605 adapter, or you can find it online easily enough. Some people order an M10x1.0 male o-ring boss to 1/8" NPT adapter through Parker and use a grease gun hose with it.

 

15lbs of oil pressure and you are thinking HPOP? The HPOP isn't affecting that, it's your low pressure oil pump. I am not saying that compression might not be your issue, but LPOP is a potential issue as well.

 

1. That's a bit of blow-by, but nothing disastrous (as far as I can tell from a vid). Compression test is needed.
   
2. You have another bad injector - #5 this time (if it's not bad compression there). I'm betting you went reman sticks, but this sometimes happens to new ones as well. Swap a stick to verify... shame it's the worst stick in the whole truck to work on. I'd swap 5 and 1 to make it easier to pull the bad one next time. I might be over-the top, but I always replace O-rings when I pull the sticks. There are those that argue you just need to replace the copper washer.
   
3. Welcome to the wonderful world of big sticks. They smoke, fart, spit, and belch... until they have been taught some manners. Once you have #5 PERDEL under control, it's time to contemplate live tuning. Hydra, F6, and Infinity can have tunes emailed, and you can get a lot closer with these... but that can take a whole lotta trial and error.

 

15lbs of oil pressure was caused by the regulator on the back of the HPOP being bad. Not sure the correct name, but once I changed it I had about 1,000lbs of pressure and the truck fired right up. Once warm it hovers about 750lbs.

I went with sticks from Swamps, they were $3,700, but I got back $1k with my cores so $2,700 total.

I also installed a GREY CPS the other day, its a ford part but heard some bad things on them.

Also I can get the cylinder velocity to go to ZERO on #5 with just a little fuel on the pedal, just a touch and it goes to 0.

I did NOT replace the injector Orings. They were new when on the first installation, ran about two weeks, then pulled, sent off, returned, then reinstalled. SO they have been installed twice.

I might have had low oil pressure when I installed the hybrids causing the nozzle to crack. <Swamps said this also and I didnt believe them at first, but when I reinstalled the new injectors 'again' the truck wouldn't start due to low oil pressure. Maybe this is how the truck suppose to act with good pressure? Heck I dont know but I can feel a vibration at low RPM.

Thanks so much.

 

As soon as you go off the Idle Validation Switch with the throttle, all PERDELs go to zero automatically... this cancels the readings. You need to test with a fully-warmed truck while in gear (foot on brake), but a reading of nine is a dead hole. I had this problem with a stick one time. I watched the injector while idling with the valve covers off, and no oil was coming out of the injector. This could also be a bad UVCH, so I would ohm all your injectors from the 42-pin connector. [LINK]

The grey CPS makes #3 and #8 read high, not #5. The idle is also just a little rougher with the grey CPS, the purple one is a bit better, and the original black one has the best idle and PERDELs - good luck finding one.

 

Okay, I misunderstood. I thought you were saying your low pressure side was showing 15lbs. Thanks for clarifying. That sensor on the back of the HPOP is called the IPR (Injection Pressure Regulator) It actually isn't really a sensor, it is a solenoid that controls a valve that regulates the high pressure oil based off of the readings the ICP (Injection Control Pressure) sensor is sending to the PCM, and what the PCM is demanding for the given situation.

 

Yup that regulator in mine was a rough one to get out. Must have been original. But when I pulled it the solenoid part had something moving inside it. Glad to have gotten it changed. Going to go fire it up and let it warm up and see what she is doing on that #5.

It just ran so dang good and then that nozzle cracked in #3. Just hasn't sunk in yet how I am having a problem on #5 unless something just didn't go back together right.

I also installed new VC gaskets with wiring harness while it was down just for safe measures.

 

Got 13.7 change in rotational velocity on #5 this morning. It was 0 for about 15minutes until I pulled it into gear. Now its got the flicker to 0 to 13.7.

The weird part. Is I can go to #3 on my dial get 0 on #5 and 10.9 on #3. It changes... I know 1 is stock, 2 is high idle, 5 is street, and 6 is extreme. I got a tow and economy in there somewhere but dont recall where it is.

 

Hate to say it but I absolutely just ran the guts outta this 7.3. 1/4 mile a few times and I have better numbers. #5 at the worst is 2.8 and under, #3 is zero at the moment on #6 setting on the tuner.

Any reason I am getting fluctuating numbers?

 

Air in oil will do that. How many miles since you dropped the injectors in?

 

Following this to see how it comes out.