On a 1 bbl carburetor for a 300, what after market air cleaner assembly is recommended.

 

I've been searching around too, as I don't know what goes on the carter 1bbl. But this dude said he just got a generic 10in and an adapter.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...981-4-9-a.html

 

An aftermarket breather that would support my oil breather hose would be nice.

 

Speedway catalogs a 4" dia X 2" height air filter assembly for 1 bbl carburetors, but believe this application is used for three 1 bbl carburetors linked together rather than a single carburetor.

A single 4" X 2" may not have sufficient flow area for the 300.

 

Depending on who you talk to, none.

The stocker will suck enough air and has the provision in later models for the flex tubing to go out to cold air. It also has the heat stove provision to aid warm up. And it fits.

 

but it's lame and homely.

 

Agreed, but what the Ford engineers designed works so very much better. I love these engines and have gone through phases of wanting to change filters and have, only to find drivability issues at some point of seasonal weather swings.

I had a machine shop make a very nice aluminum adapter which mounts to the carburetor and then could have my pick of aftermarket air cleaners or factory, which were for 4 barrel carburetors. It looked great, but did not perform as well without the provision for preheating incoming air. Also, underhood temperatures are higher than outside ambient temperatures, so the air feeding the engine is less dense, which doe not help performance.

Do what you want to as it is your truck. Have fun and learn and share!

 

Found a 10" diameter X 2" height in Speedway Motors catalog made for 2 bbl carburetors.
However, the description indicates it fits 2 -5/8" carburetor neck which is equal to the stock Carter/Motorcraft 1 bbl on the 300.

Also found a black ABS plastic adapter by Spectrum at AutoZ that adapts to the more common 5-1/8" neck to 2-5/8" neck.

Now really confused, another current thread is talking about heating the intake manifold fuel/air mixture down stream of the carburetor throttle with coolant and now preheating the intake air to the carburetor.

Always thought that denser was better. Moisture rain laden air was better than dry desert air for HP and MPG and dry cold air was better than warm dry air.
Understand why scoop outside air is better than under the hood air.

 

Well, dry air is more dense than wet or humid air (but you guys at sea level have it better than we do regardless) . But more O2 and cooler air is where a motor wants to be. Yes, colder air intake is better. Heating up fuel at the point on ignition is where you want the heat. We used to put ice bags from the store just on top of our intake manifolds in the dead of summer. Mucho difference.
I'm just not so sure I'd want to go with ABS/PVC for that bit.. seems like it may warp over time..

 

Agree that dry cold air is more dense than dry hot air. As water vapor is added to the air, the density of the mixture decreases, because the molecular weight of water is less than the molecular weight of air.

Denser air is better for HP.

With rain laden air, the water is still in liquid phase, not vapor phase.
When the mixture is induced into the engine heat is transfered from the air to the water droplets, thereby decreasing the temperature of the air and increasing the density. Similiar physics occurs with a swap cooler. Have stood near niagara falls in the summer and had to wear a jacket, because the surrounding air temperature was cold.

On the intake manifold issue
Wonder if a heat tube from the EFI exhaust manifold to the underside of the intake manifold would help maintain the atomised liquid fuel from dropping out of the air stream before arriving at #1 and #6 intake ports.

Maybe the intake manifold would get too hot and vaporize the fuel, causing a vapor lock.

The tapped hole used for the O2 sensor in the EFI exhaust manifold could be used for a copper tube compression fitting with a soft copper tube to a plate fastened to the underside of the intake manifold.

water injection was very popular with the hot rodders to increase HP.
The P51 mustange in WW2 used water injection to increase HP.
Rain laden air charge is similiar to using water injection.

 

"On the intake manifold issue
Wonder if a heat tube from the EFI exhaust manifold to the underside of the intake manifold would help maintain the atomised liquid fuel from dropping out of the air stream before arriving at #1 and #6 intake ports."

KISS! The newer model Cliffords have the plumbing built in for water heat/coolant. The Offy DP and C were originally built to bolt up to a stock exhaust for heating the intake. Without the stock exhaust it's time to adapt and improvise thus the water heat/coolant plate came into existence. As to whether one can plumb heat from the EFI manifolds or headers to the intake with satisfactory results, go ahead and fabricate something up and post the results with pics so others can benefit from your R&D. IF your engine is uber high performance and is going to run at 8k-10k rpm, a fuel distribution problem for the outside cylinders might be of a real concern. In our slow turning engines, not a concern at all. I have yet to see an engine failure reported much less confirmed on a 300 because of fuel distribution problems.