Hey guys, just bought a new project that I have some questions about.
71' f250 camper special. Automatic, 75k miles on the 390, 2WD, disc brakes, powersteering and i bought it from the original owner.





So first thing. The steering is pretty sloppy and I think it has to do with the part pictured below. What exactly is it and where can I buy a replacement?



Also the seat feels really close to the steering wheel. Like uncomfortably close. The wheel is basically rubbing on my lap. I am not a skinny guy by any sense of the word but I daily drive a Mazda Miata comfortably. Is this the original seat position? I have thought about a smaller wheel but I love the look/style of the stock wheel.

 

That part is called a rag joint. Are you sure the slop is in the rag joint? It's more likely in the steering box. I'd assume the previous owner never replaced his. How much play is in your steering wheel? If there's a bunch of loose play it's likely the box. Anything after that is likely tie rod ends and that kind of thing. I'd order up a new box from Redhead. They're a small business in Washington. Research their stuff on here. You'll never hear someone say a bad thing about them. For peace of mind, I'd order up new tie rods and a drag link from Moog. Voilà. Better than new steering.

As for the seat, it shouldn't be that far up I don't think. I've never checked myself but I think you can slide the bench seat back and forth.

 

Welcome to FTE

Do not believe a single word a seller claims! Private sellers lie just like used/new car dealers, lawyers, politicians and TV evangelists.

Did the seller inform you the R/L grille inserts aren't original and the outside mirrors are from an auto parts store? Probabaly not.

Do not believe the miles shown on the odometer, as it reads to 99999.9, then returns to ZERO!

On sale day, 360's magically become 390's! 360/390's share the same block, the bore is the same (4.05"), the stroke is different.

Measure the stroke to determine engine size: 360 = 3.50" / 390 = 3.78."

C9UZ-3A525-A .. Steering Coupler / Obsolete / Available from Dorman Products, sold by auto parts stores. The rubber itself can also be replaced, but it can be a b!tch to install.

1971 F250 2WD: TWO different drag links, left outer tie rods and inner tie rod ends. It all depends on the last 6 digits of the VIN which parts are correct.

The height of the seat appears to be correct and it looks like it's in the far rearward position. The cabs on these trucks can be tight for people 6' tall plus and/or over 200 lbs.

AFAIK, the Miata has a tilt wheel, not sure if it telescopes as well. Tilt wheels weren't available for F100/350's until 1978, tilt & telescoping wheels weren't available for F150's until 2009.

 

2X Tro. You gotta fix the leak via a new box that got the original rag joint wet otherwise the same thing will happen to the new one. Check your steering linkage. Tightened up steering will be the end result.
2X all that Bill said.
One thing you can check. Look at the bottom of the dash where the steering column is bolted. See if your truck's PO put some spacers there between the dash and the column's mounting flange to lower the steering wheel.

 

X2 again what everyone else said.

The steering wheels are pretty low to the seat, but that's just how it is. Your options are to get a smaller wheel, install a custom tilt colum, or just live with it.

I find my seat and cab to be very comfortable. I'm 6' 1" and have tons of head and leg room. I can wear my big cowboy hat without the top or brim touching anything. I've got my seat slid all the way back.

The steering slop is most likely in the box, you can also get reman boxes at your local parts store for under $200. Quality is the question though. The redheads are a bit pricey, but no one ever complains about them.

 

My take on the wheel placement is the PO installed a power steering box and kept the original column. There are several lengths; Bill(number dummy) will know the right one.

 

Alex reminded me of something. You can do the 78/79 Dent tilt steering Mod to get the wheel off your legs. It also would be a 2 spoke steering wheel.

 

Looks to me like the bench is all the way forward. Sometimes you need to do that IOT get access to the jack handle.

Have you tried adjusting the bench?

Get in it, move the bench adjustment lever (to release the latches) and push your feet against the firewall.

If the bench scoots back to a more-comfortable position, make sure the Passenger's side latches latch into place as well as the Driver's side.

 

The truck may very well be a 360. The person I was buying it from was the son and was selling it for his dad and he said he was fairly certain it was a 390. But Ill have to find that out myself. After fiddling with the seat more I did come to find out that it was indeed all the way back so I will either need to find smaller wheel or save up for the tilt column.


The truck has a really hard time starting but once it is started and warmed up it runs fairly decent. I will be checking the timing thursday with my pops. He knows a bunch about these motors. I come from a 90's import background so I am trying to soak up all the knowledge that I can.

Would the cap and rotor be the same for a 360 AND the 390? I got them for the 390 from O'reilly and after I installed them I noticed when I had the truck running the cap wiggled around a bit and I don't think it is supposed to do that?

I snapped a few pics of the motor to post up here to see if there was something off that any of you fellas could pick out?

Thanks in advance.

 

I also did end up getting a new rag joint that I will be putting in thursday. The one that is in there, the rubber was torn so when you turned the wheel it had some funny feedback. We'll see what the steering response is like after that install.

 

As a matter of general housekeeping, I suggest neatly routing the underhood wiring. It looks like a New Year's eve party under there! For example, the oil pressure/water temp/coil hanressis on top of the valve cover... it should be inboard of the left valve cover and held on with small clips. Right now yours appears as if part of it is resting on the driver's side exhaust manifold can melt or burn through.

I recently just picked up a 71 F250 n May 5 : https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...n-71-f250.html

 

be sure to change the fuel filters. Should be one at the cab and possibly one on the fuel pump or between the tank and pump. There is no visible difference between the 360 and 390. There are many write ups on how to check to find out. it is a stroke length difference. Using wooden dowel in #1 and measuring the stroke. I don't remember what the measure is for each but you should be able to find it with a quick search.

 

A 360 is a 3.50 stroke. The 390 is a 3.78 stroke

 

One of those pics of the distributor shows the black lead in wire sort of bending down where it attaches to the points. It looks pretty close to the vacuum advance lever. It might short out so it might be a good idea to straighten it.
Some times the clips that hold the cap down lose their curvature , give them a slight bend and see if the cap is tighter. Same cap as 390/360
Welcome to the site, enjoy your new ride.

 

Points/condenser/rotor/dizzy cap same for all 1957/73 FoMoCo V8's (except points/condenser with dual point dizzies), 1974/75 all V8's except with DuraSpark electronic ignition.