Hello, first time posting here... That being said, let's get right into it. Keep in mind I'm no mechanic, just a little basic knowledge here and there...

My window switch stopped allowing my window to go up just yesterday... The truck makes a ticking noise when the button down for the driver side is pressed, but not the button up. The window seemed to drop down fine with no problem.

Here's where it gets weird. I used a multimeter to test the connections with the switch, which seemed to be perfectly fine. Then I tested the cables connecting into the switch and those seemed to test alright too at 15 each. If all of this is working, is it still possible for the connection to be broken somewhere, or am I looking in the wrong area for the problem? Are these signs of a crossed wire? Honestly my knowledge for diagnosing is pretty limited so I'm more reliant on assistance than I should be at this point.

None of the other windows are working either, going up or down. Is there some way the window lock could be stuck in an engaged state, and if so, shouldn't that be preventing the window from going down in the first place?

Lastly, if neither of the above questions can be answered, is there at least something I can do to temporarily force the window back up? Nothing like a cold breeze at 3AM while doing 60mph.

 

Maybe a Fuse?

 

If I do recall the windows are run by a circuit breaker.

About putting the window up try hot wiring it up. Hook a wire to a connection that can handle the draw of the window and see if it'll go up.

 

You can remove the door panel and apply 12 volts directly to the window motor to make it go up. Reversing the 12 volts leads to make it go back down again.

To help you further with this problem we would need to know what the vehicle is.

 

1997 For Expedition according to his bio

 

I'll go check them now, although I would've thought the window would not have gone down if that was the case. As for the other suggestions, trying them now!

Yes, it's a 97 Ford Expedition. Sorry for not mentioning that in the original post.

As for passing voltage through the cable by hot-wiring, I had the multimeter hooked up to both the B+ and the FL window up wires, but it didn't do anything but register that there was voltage there. Can multimeters pass a current or do I need to use a regular cable instead?

Thanks for the quick advice so far!

 

No and yes.

 

The window lock only prevents the other 3 window buttons from working, it does not prevent the driver's 4-button pad from working.

Have you tested all 4 outputs from the drivers switch to make sure the driver's switch is working properly. The other 3 switches route through the driver's switch, so if the driver's switch is faulty then it can affect all 4 windows.

 

Okay, so steps I've taken so far.

Tested all circuit breakers for continuity, no problems.

Attempted to hot wire the cables for driver's window up, both at the wire harness and a couple of spots down the wiring, with instrumentation panel disconnected. Window down was still causing the inside fuse box circuit breaker to tick, but window up made no sounds from breaker (patched up where wires were exposed to ensure no shorts).

Noticed something new: When hitting window up, I hear what almost sounds like a low radio static noise coming from inside the door (maybe the motor is groaning and not getting enough voltage to move the windows? Not sure what to make of it and I'm not experienced enough to come to a good conclusion here).

Still trying to figure out how to access the actual window motor. Have a Haynes manual outside that I've been working with to pry off the door cover, but haven't gotten inside the actual door yet.

 

Have you pushed the buttons on the other doors for their windows to see if they work?

 

Yes, they are not functioning.

 

At the lower left of the panel is a light. You have to pry the lens off to access a screw behind it. The panel lifts up and out, don't try to pull it straight out or you'll break the mounting hangers. Here is a video of how to do it.

 

Unfortunately I'll have to take care of it in the morning, can't get the rivets out because my powerdrill seems to be nowhere to be found.

 

What rivets? There are no rivets that you have to remove to access the connector going to the motor.