Power window issues
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New User
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 16
Likes: 0
From: Schenectady, NY
Power window issues
Not a major problem just real annoying.
So the drivers window won't open, when I push the button it kinda budges a little bit but thats it. The passenger window will only go down slighty and then has difficulty going back up. Any thoughts on this?
Thanks in advance guys.<!-- / message -->
So the drivers window won't open, when I push the button it kinda budges a little bit but thats it. The passenger window will only go down slighty and then has difficulty going back up. Any thoughts on this?
Thanks in advance guys.<!-- / message -->
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Tuned
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 331
Likes: 3
From: St. Louis, MO
I've had this problem come and pass without doing anything. I think it is a weak motor needing to be replaced. The fact that it does at least move makes me less suspicious of a relay or switch. Spraying silicone lubricant down the sides into the window channels is supposed to help if you are able to get it open again. My front passenger window is extremely slow and in the cold will often stop, especially on the way up. I have had a new motor for a couple years just need to find time to install but I expect that will cure the dragging window problem.
Senior User
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 254
Likes: 0
From: Lake Greenwood, SC
I'd see if you can work one down with a little help and then get some silicone lube in the tracks. Mine seemed to get a bit sticky in the snows and ice and road salt. A quick dab of slippery stuff cured em.
Senior User
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 254
Likes: 0
From: Lake Greenwood, SC
I just used some generic silicone lube in a tube, used for pulling wire. It's about the consistency of vaseline and almost impossible to wash off but cheap and effective.
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New User
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 21
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I just finished fixing this same exact problem on mine. Down in the door jamb on the drivers side is a rubber boot that covers the wires going into the door...peel that rubber boot back (be agressive) to expose the wires. look for a break/wires showing on the black wire and possibly the white. When i found mine the black wire was completely broke and the white wire was frayed. fixed the wires with some solder and shrink sleeve and all windows are fast and work perfect up and down.
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Tuned
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 331
Likes: 3
From: St. Louis, MO
The silicone I use is in a regular metal spray can like spray paint rattle cans or rust penetrators. Don't remember if it had a straw. I also spray it on all of the weatherstripping just to keep it all healthy and water resistant. Maybe the thicker goopy stuff would be more effective but with the spray can I'm able to shoot it down the sides of the window channels. You can find this stuff at any AutoZone or NAPA, just ask for spray on silicone.
I'm curious MachDream, had your windows stopped all together or just slowed? You've got me curious about taking a peak to look for broken wires. None of my windows have ever been fast.
I'm curious MachDream, had your windows stopped all together or just slowed? You've got me curious about taking a peak to look for broken wires. None of my windows have ever been fast.
New User
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 21
Likes: 0
seven3,
My situation was my windows would roll half way up or down sometimes, all the way sometimes, 1/4 etc, etc. After swapping in new relays and a known good master window switch off my buddys truck to test....i realized something; when the drivers door was wide open (wires in the door jamb more in a strait line) windows worked fine. when i hopped in and shut the door (wires in the door jamb now kinked a little due to the angle) windows did not work. At that point i peeled the rubber boot back to expose the wires and there it was...almost broken black and alot of copper showing on the white.
My situation was my windows would roll half way up or down sometimes, all the way sometimes, 1/4 etc, etc. After swapping in new relays and a known good master window switch off my buddys truck to test....i realized something; when the drivers door was wide open (wires in the door jamb more in a strait line) windows worked fine. when i hopped in and shut the door (wires in the door jamb now kinked a little due to the angle) windows did not work. At that point i peeled the rubber boot back to expose the wires and there it was...almost broken black and alot of copper showing on the white.
Freshman User
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 32
Likes: 0
From: monroe ,Ct
my drivers side would go 1/2 way at normal then kinda stick. would have to hit the button a couple of times to make it go all the way down . now sometimes it would go all down then "stuck " there for a while before it goes back up..maybe i should check the wires too. are these wires easy to get o and fix and with what
New User
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 21
Likes: 0
youre issue sounds more like needing silicone on the window tracks, wouldnt hurt to check the wires tho to be safe. You should be able to "feel" (visually speaking) if it is getting "stuck" or if there is a short/broken wire. For me i knew it was a short because it was just off and on, not slow or anything. when they would roll it was fast, or not at all.
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