JMO but I think your battery is toast. When you took it to have it tested, did they just check the charge level or did they also do a 'load test'. That will let you know how strong that battery really is. While doing a load test - if its not in the green - time for a new battery. No amount of charging will repair that battery.
A new battery has a certain level of 'charge'. Lets say 100%. How long that battery stays at that level of service, will depend on various things. Charging system is #1. Connections to those various system components and condition of each of those components. #2

Scenario: If system components start going down hill, and a level of 'charge' is not maintained on the battery - each time that battery gets recharged, that state of 100% at the battery starts to drop. AND that level of charge does NOT go back up to 100%. It may go to 95% and the next time it will only hold 86% and so on and so on. There will come at a point that your battery, (although will read a 'full' charge of 12volt) that is not what the 'LOAD level charge is. When a load test is put to the battery, you will watch the meter start to drop, and where it stops is what the true power level of that battery is. AND, the load level capacity of that battery, is what will turn that starter.
Yes, on a fully charged battery, all your electrical components - headlights, inter lights, running lights, gauge lights, may work, but leave it on for 15 or 20 minutes and watch them go down in brightness.

After you get a new Battery, drive your vehicle to a place that can check all your system parts. charger/alt, voltage reg and so on...
Again JMO

 

First thing I would check it the wiring at the Alternator. I had the same issue, battery not charging, ALT light staying on dimly after start.... and the PO had the STA (Stator) and FLD (Field) wires, crossed at the alternator..

Field wire (FLD) is white from the voltage regulator to the FLD nut on the alternator. STA (Stator) wire is white with a black stripe. Not saying this is YOUR issue, but it could be.

Once you get it started again, you can also check if the battery is charging using a multimeter...

 

Valid opinions and theories...all are appreciated.

Load was tested and given a green. Since I now can't start it it's hard/impossible to know/test amperage at any rpm range, however, I did connect my daily driver via jumper cables to backup the battery during a starting attempt... kept electrical strong (no dip in light intensity), but nothing more than the turn over sans full start. These have been fixed and reconnected with no improvement.

I'll check the alternator wiring tomorrow. I did find the black and white (no stripe noted) wires to alternator had broken connectors...black wire also had exposed sections that looked like oxidized copper...what I suspect/hope caused the battery to not charge initially.

Seeming like something more than a battery issue now. However, I'm no mechanic.

 

Thanks again for all the help guys.

In case it helps someone else here's the run down:

1.) Battery was fine so I pulled fuel filter; cleaned, but no gas coming through line.
2.) Pulled tank end line from fuel pump; no gas ran out of line. Used vacuum on the line and gas freely ran.
3.) Replaced fuel pump and the beast came back to life.
4.) 5 minutes of running and alternator light was on and off (had been staying on before).
5.) Tightened PS and alternator belts and found alternator bearing was shot. Replaced alternator.
6.) Better start and idle than before.

The best part? She's now running again.