My first leak test showed a couple of small leaks and the passenger plenum boot was leaking. I went back and forth about ordering new boots, plenum inserts etc but opted to pull the spider, clean everything up real well and see if that cured it. When I reassembled everything and added air I had to mess around with the clamp between the spider and the compressor a few times until it sealed up tight. Then I heard some leaks and began tracking them down. The odd one was on the spider. I couldn't tell if it was a pin hole or a hairline crack. [IMG][/IMG] [IMG][/IMG] I guess I could buy some time with some JB weld but would you guys recommend one of the fancy polished set ups from AFE or CFM or just a OEM replacement? The other spot that took a while to locate was on the far back corner of the driver side valve cover. I did attach my leak tester just after the filter and I haven't done the CCV mod but I would still think the vc shouldn't be leaking there. Can I tighten the bolts a little? Or am I stuck pulling them and replacing the gaskets? I was only using about 10psi max for the test. On a positive note the plenum boots weren't leaking anymore, I was able to scrub some of the funk off the valley and I am learning a ton about my truck. Thanks for any input/advice you guys have to offer.

 

great find, man . I would've never thought of soap'n the spider up. The AFE spider..etc, in my opinion, is a waste of $$$. Find another one in junkyard, c-list...etc. If only a hole, jb-weld for the time, but take to welder and have ur fixed, when times good.

Youcould tighten the bolts on the vc, see if that helps. Came acrossa thread, where a member replaced the bolts with allenheads for easier removal, next time going in

 

Welding is one trade that I regret not learning. So you think that could be welded? That would be awesome. Is that something that could be done while it's still in the truck or do you thinking would need to be removed? I'm assuming it's made of cast aluminum?

 

It can be welded, I would take it off the truck.. Personally, a little grinding and JB weld would solve the problem..

 

Thanks. I picked up some JB weld and will tackle it today. When I boost leak test again I might try on the pipe coming directly out of the turbo to bypass the CCV

 

If you are going to get it welded don't jb it as they need it clean to weld
There is probably a crack in it from the casting not cooling right when it was made

 

+1 if you are going to have it welded don't use j-b weld it is hard to remove from the crack the cleaner the aluminum the better the weld will turn out.

 

My isspro boost gauge in my truck was not working. I checked my line found a crimp in in fixed that but now my boost gauge is only showing like 5lbs of boost and that is only when I really get it to it hard. Wonder where esle you check for boost leaks? My Mechanic told me my turbo was in a larger housing so it sounds screechy when i stay on the acclerator. Could this be a boost leak did your truck throw a code that made you look for the boost leak?

 

Screechy?!? I don't think I have ever heard of a turbo sounding that way. My truck didn't throw any codes I am just trying to familiarize myself with a relatively new to me truck and get it running the best it can before I start shopping for a performance boosting chip. I read somewhere and I agree with them that more people have small leaks and don't realize it. As far as places to look for leaks, you are capping the hose right after the CCV so follow the normal flow of air through the compressor to the CAC pipes, intercooler, back to the spider and into the intakes. Lots of soapy water and listen close. Also check the MAP line the small red and green vacuum lines that come off the spider and go to the intake and wastegate actuator. Any of these junctions could potentially leak. 5psi definitely seems low. Do you have egt gauge? You might have a leak in your up pipes. But I am relatively new to this so hopefully some more experienced guys can chime in and help you out with other ideas.

 

Yes I have a Isspro Pyro / Boost gauge the pyro works great, I am going to check the rest of my lines with soapy water tomorrow. I spent today getting my track bar welded back on. once you get away from stock you work on your truck a lot more.

 

Consider this to fix the spider: [LINK]

 

That stuff looks pretty cool. I ended up putting a little JB weld on there and it did the trick.