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I've decided I want a SBC Con-OFE this time around. My question is what, if anything is different about the flywheel?
I have three flywheels (two stock and one LUK) all with Valeo part numbers stamped on them. My confusion comes from a few different websites that say I have to have the South Bend flywheel to run a South bend clutch.
Are the SBC flywheels drilled differently? Are they stronger or heavier? Is there any real reason I would need the $921 1944-6OFEK over the $703 1944-6OFER?
I already don't like the idea of throwing seven bills at a clutch, and I need a fourth flywheel like I need an additional hole in my head, so I would just as soon not if it isn't an absolute requirement. I'm just having a difficult time confirming my suspicion that I don't need it.
Don't know for sure Scott, but I can't see how Southbend would have some magical flywheel that would result in utter destruction if not used. That is of course assuming at least one of your other 3 flywheels is still in good shape and could be machined if needed. Since you seem to have extra's laying around, why not order the clutch and make sure the pressure plate will bolt fine using the standard flywheel?
They are all good. Since Dave (1996pwrstrk) and I live so close we keep them in a rotation so when either of us needs one it's already turned and ready to go. Test fit is a great idea. Thanks!
Originally Posted by Deluxe06
Scott, The only thing I know about the SBC Flywheel is that it is machined Flat instead of the slite concave machining the stock flywheel has.
Good info. I appreciate it. I think the one up next is my original flywheel, so it's been machined twice. Should be as flat as it can be at this point.
Scott, if I were you I would give SBC a call and see what they recommend. I had some one tell me that they will rebuild their clutches for you. But it turned out the shipping to and from is not money saving.
I have a (resurfaced) LUK flywheel and Con OFE clutch. (BTW, I love this clutch. )
You should be good to go with that, but SB has STELLAR customer service - call them and see what they say!
I HIGHLY recommend a better pilot bearing. The stocker is a total FAIL/POS design and those engineers should spend eternity with a nasty case of itchy-butt... The kevlar bushing is a decent bandaid, because it doesn't mess up the input shaft any worse - but it still wears and puts strain on the input shaft bearing. Many have the flywheel machined to accept the larger 6.0 pilot bearing. I've been running a 6003RS roller bearing for about 40k now and recommend it. Its a tight fit, so I put the bearing in the freezer overnight to help put it in without 'forcing' it.
I hear ya on that pilot bearing. I've been using a bronze bushing for years now.
The SBC flywheel is nothing special. New ones come in the kits because of the dual mass units in the old trucks. If you have a solid flywheel there's no need to buy another one.
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