Water pump replacement
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From: Centerville TN
Water pump replacement
Thought I would just start my own thread,instead of hijacking VaFordman26's. Here's what I got done this evening.
There's some scale build-up in my radiator,any suggestions on flushing it?
I'm also gonna put my thermostat that I've had laying around for two years in! It's a motocraft and I'm gonna check it before I install it. Gonna take my mechanical lift pump out and put the block-off plate on. And put my power steering line on that's been laying around. Just call me a procrastinator! Thanks goes out to akamacyver yet again for the wrench trick to getting the fan clutch off!
There's some scale build-up in my radiator,any suggestions on flushing it?
I'm also gonna put my thermostat that I've had laying around for two years in! It's a motocraft and I'm gonna check it before I install it. Gonna take my mechanical lift pump out and put the block-off plate on. And put my power steering line on that's been laying around. Just call me a procrastinator! Thanks goes out to akamacyver yet again for the wrench trick to getting the fan clutch off!
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From: Mi'kma'ki
helpful info..............
CAUTION!!! "The Old casting requires the proper bolts in the upper mounting holes, or they will hit the IP gear."
CAUTION!!! "The Old casting requires the proper bolts in the upper mounting holes, or they will hit the IP gear."
All fan clutch nuts are LHT, the Serpentine belt/Fan Clutch is jsut as much a PITA as the V Belts. Your going to need a special wrench set to get the nut off.
FWIW, the Water Pump design was changed. In 88/89?? IF You get a new casting, the bolts are all the same. If You get an new casting, the upper bolt bosses are longer and You don't need to worry about the bolts hitting the IP gear. The Old casting requires the proper bolts in the upper mounting holes, or they will hit the IP gear. See Pic Link Below.
FWIW, the Water Pump design was changed. In 88/89?? IF You get a new casting, the bolts are all the same. If You get an new casting, the upper bolt bosses are longer and You don't need to worry about the bolts hitting the IP gear. The Old casting requires the proper bolts in the upper mounting holes, or they will hit the IP gear. See Pic Link Below.
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From: Manteca
Thought I would just start my own thread,instead of hijacking VaFordman26's. Here's what I got done this evening.
There's some scale build-up in my radiator,any suggestions on flushing it?
I'm also gonna put my thermostat that I've had laying around for two years in! It's a motocraft and I'm gonna check it before I install it. Gonna take my mechanical lift pump out and put the block-off plate on. And put my power steering line on that's been laying around. Just call me a procrastinator! Thanks goes out to akamacyver yet again for the wrench trick to getting the fan clutch off!
There's some scale build-up in my radiator,any suggestions on flushing it?
I'm also gonna put my thermostat that I've had laying around for two years in! It's a motocraft and I'm gonna check it before I install it. Gonna take my mechanical lift pump out and put the block-off plate on. And put my power steering line on that's been laying around. Just call me a procrastinator! Thanks goes out to akamacyver yet again for the wrench trick to getting the fan clutch off!
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From: Manteca
As long as it is a copper brass radiator you will be fine, just make sure you neutralize the acid afterwards
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From: Centerville TN
Yes, I know. Shouldn't be a shock
. What's the best way to get to the non-pressure line on the steering box. Thought that I would replace my leaky line, but I'm having trouble even with the radiator out. Which radiator should I use? Mine has a leak that has been there for a little while. I know that champions are not too reliable.
. What's the best way to get to the non-pressure line on the steering box. Thought that I would replace my leaky line, but I'm having trouble even with the radiator out. Which radiator should I use? Mine has a leak that has been there for a little while. I know that champions are not too reliable.
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It'd be nice if a quality replacement was still available, but all I'm hearing are stories of crap, 2 core, plastic tanks, now the problems with Chumpions...
14-15 years ago I got a new one at a local radiator shop for the '84, looked like a direct replacement for the stock one. Buying it hurt though, $400. But if that's what it takes for a good one it was probably worth it.
14-15 years ago I got a new one at a local radiator shop for the '84, looked like a direct replacement for the stock one. Buying it hurt though, $400. But if that's what it takes for a good one it was probably worth it.
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Out of curiosity, (my '85's going to need one eventually), I checked RockAuto, they have all the typical low cost crap, but this one at the bottom sounds like a possible stock replacement:
<table class="parts"><tbody><tr><td class="left" style="padding:0px; margin:0px;"><table class="layout" style="padding:0px; margin:0px;"><tbody><tr><td class="partlayout">VISTA-PRO Part # 432194 {#1165, 9334} Ready-Rad; Mounting: Front Flange
COPPER / BRASS; W/AC; W/H.D. COOLING; W/MAX COOLING</td></tr></tbody></table></td><td class="right" style="height: 40px;">
</td></tr></tbody></table>$406.79
Looks like a grab your ankles if you want it, but throwing money away on a cheap o is a losing proposition.
<table class="parts"><tbody><tr><td class="left" style="padding:0px; margin:0px;"><table class="layout" style="padding:0px; margin:0px;"><tbody><tr><td class="partlayout">VISTA-PRO Part # 432194 {#1165, 9334} Ready-Rad; Mounting: Front Flange
COPPER / BRASS; W/AC; W/H.D. COOLING; W/MAX COOLING</td></tr></tbody></table></td><td class="right" style="height: 40px;">
</td></tr></tbody></table>$406.79
Looks like a grab your ankles if you want it, but throwing money away on a cheap o is a losing proposition.
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Why not just fix it?
Find your leak, and see if you can't solder it closed. Being brass/copper, there should be no reason you can't solder it shut.
Also, depending on how 'stock' you want it, a jy unit might be a good value. If it's even close to the same size, it should work fine -- I'm now of the opinion that our radiators are fairly well oversized for the application(which is nice).
Find your leak, and see if you can't solder it closed. Being brass/copper, there should be no reason you can't solder it shut.
Also, depending on how 'stock' you want it, a jy unit might be a good value. If it's even close to the same size, it should work fine -- I'm now of the opinion that our radiators are fairly well oversized for the application(which is nice).
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From: Centerville TN
My dad's gonna take my radiator to a local machine shop tomorrow. They fix radiators and all kind of stuff. They think highly of their work, but it's done right. Figured this would be my best bet. Got my power steering line on and got my old pump off and cleaned the old gasket off. Got to get some bolts for my fuel pump block- off plate.
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