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Boost leak test shows some problems

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Old Apr 19, 2014 | 03:18 PM
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Boost leak test shows some problems

I am in the process of trying to get my 2000 f350 cc lb 152,000 mile truck running as good as possible. For ease I am going to put my questions in bold. I built a boost leak tester today and set out to the driveway with my soap solution. I put a little air in the system and heard a leak. I noticed that the red line that I pulled off of the waste gate and placed on one of the CAC boot clamps was leaking a little so I placed it back on the waste gate. It did still leak a little and wasn't sure if that was something to worry about or not? I also noticed a little leak from the nipple going to the MAP hose. I was thinking that a properly sized screw clamp might be better and eliminate that leak as opposed to the ford squeeze clamp that is currently on there. I heard a larger leak that sounded like it could be coming from the CAC boot area so I removed it and tried cleaning up the pipe and boot real well. Is there a trick to removing that pipe? Or does something need to be removed to slide it out? I was really close to getting it out so I could really clean it well but was afraid to force it. After I reinstalled it I pumped it up again and determined that the leak was actually coming from the intake plenum boot which was very oily. The spider looks relatively easy to pop off but should I order a new O ring to go between the turbo and the spider or can I get away with reusing the old one? After searching related topics I came across the plenum inserts from RiffRaff. I was thinking for the price I might just order a set (esp if I need to order a new o ring) and install them while I have the spider off. Sounds like this is a common problem for the 7.3 to leak bc of the plenum openings?
Thank you in advance for any light you can shine on my leaks
 
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Old Apr 19, 2014 | 03:52 PM
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#1: Where is the red line leaking? If it's at the elbow that connects to the wastegate actuator, you can get them at Advance Auto. I found them with the vacuum hose and related stuff.

#2 Have you ever replaced the hose from the manifold to the MAP sensor? They harden and crack over time. Mine was pretty brittle and leaky when I replaced it recently.

#3 If you're asking about the CAC tubes themselves, they will come out without removing anything else. The right side takes a little more twisting and turning than the left one, but they should both come out. Loosening the clamp at the tube and leaving the boot on the intercooler instead of trying to get the tube out with the boot on that end helps too.

#4 At 155k miles, I'd lean toward replacing the o-ring as long as you're going to have access to it anyhow.

#5 I've never had a leak at the plenum boots, but I know overtightening the clamps can crush the plenum tube and cause a leak, especially if it's out of round at all or has a dent. The plenum inserts prevent that from happening.
 
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Old Apr 19, 2014 | 04:19 PM
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When I remove the CAC tubes I have to take off the intake tube between the airbox and CCV on the drivers side and I have to remove the bracket that holds the MAP sensor on the passenger side. Well, maybe I don't necessarily have to, but I've always taken them off because they are in the way and they are both easy to remove.
 
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Old Apr 19, 2014 | 04:21 PM
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Oh yeah, I forgot about removing the air filter lid and first section of tube. My bad.
 
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Old Apr 19, 2014 | 04:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Pikachu
Loosening the clamp at the tube and leaving the boot on the intercooler instead of trying to get the tube out with the boot on that end helps too.
On the passenger side I can't get to that hose clamp without unscrewing the degas bottle. I loosen the boot on the intercooler, but the hose clamp likes to snag on everything. So if you do it that way take your time and pay attention to that hose clamp, but it will come right out.
 
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Old Apr 19, 2014 | 04:45 PM
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I must have my clamps on differently. I can get to it with a long wobble extension.
 
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Old Apr 19, 2014 | 05:34 PM
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Originally Posted by greg_8507
On the passenger side I can't get to that hose clamp without unscrewing the degas bottle. I loosen the boot on the intercooler, but the hose clamp likes to snag on everything. So if you do it that way take your time and pay attention to that hose clamp, but it will come right out.
You know, you're right. It's the left side I can get to easily. The right side, I turned the clamp, but I do need to use a box end wrench to get to it. I should have remembered that, as many times as I've been under the valve covers lately
 
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Old Apr 19, 2014 | 05:53 PM
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I pulled all that out yesterday so it's fresh in my mind. I've got my clamps positioned so I can reach straight down with a ratchet and extension
 
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Old Apr 19, 2014 | 05:54 PM
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Looks like I'll be doing it again tomorrow. Stupid injectors
 
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Old Apr 19, 2014 | 05:57 PM
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I've got to wait for the rain to stop so I can put it all back together. Stupid EBPV.
 
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Old Apr 19, 2014 | 05:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Pikachu
#1: Where is the red line leaking? If it's at the elbow that connects to the wastegate actuator, you can get them at Advance Auto. I found them with the vacuum hose and related stuff. #2 Have you ever replaced the hose from the manifold to the MAP sensor? They harden and crack over time. Mine was pretty brittle and leaky when I replaced it recently. #3 If you're asking about the CAC tubes themselves, they will come out without removing anything else. The right side takes a little more twisting and turning than the left one, but they should both come out. Loosening the clamp at the tube and leaving the boot on the intercooler instead of trying to get the tube out with the boot on that end helps too. #4 At 155k miles, I'd lean toward replacing the o-ring as long as you're going to have access to it anyhow. #5 I've never had a leak at the plenum boots, but I know overtightening the clamps can crush the plenum tube and cause a leak, especially if it's out of round at all or has a dent. The plenum inserts prevent that from happening.
It is leaking at the elbow. I will have to check out adv auto. Does it just pressure fit or glue the elbow to the red line?
I have never replaced the MAP line. Is it anything special or just vacuum line?
I was talking about the cac pipe. Passenger side to be exact. I had both boots off but just couldn't get it out without worrying that I was forcing it too much. Maybe when I redo the map line it will free up enough space. I have my boost gauge "t"'d off of if do maybe mine is a little less flexible.
I will take your advice and replace the o ring. Looks like riffraff doesn't sell that one by itself. Do you know which kit it would be in or does anyone sell it by itself?
With that amount of miles would it make sense to just replace the plenum boots with new ones while I am in there ? Do the new ones perform better or just help color coordinate under the hood.
Thank you everyone for your input
 
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Old Apr 19, 2014 | 06:05 PM
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dieselOrings.com has that O-ring for 4.50. Alot of people replace the factory boots because they get saturated with oil and become prone to blowing off under high boost. I'm going to be using some left over high pressure fuel line for my MAP sensor when I start putting everything back together.
 
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Old Apr 19, 2014 | 06:30 PM
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The elbow just presses on. There's a little barb on the end of the red line to hold it. The MAP line is just 1/4" fuel hose, nothing special.
 
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Old Apr 19, 2014 | 09:29 PM
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If you upgrade to the stronger boots, you'll need the plenum inserts and 4 t-bolt clamps.

Side note: The plenum inserts and upgraded boots do not fit E99 trucks.
 
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Old Apr 19, 2014 | 09:37 PM
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Originally Posted by kefrko
It is leaking at the elbow. I will have to check out adv auto. Does it just pressure fit or glue the elbow to the red line?
Some glue wouldn't hurt. Or try some of that liquid electrical tape or glue on the outside of your existing fitting to see if you can seal it up.

Originally Posted by kefrko
I have never replaced the MAP line. Is it anything special or just vacuum line?
Just regular vacuum line. Inspect it. If there's a problem with it, you should be able to see or feel it. I've never replaced my line either. If it's just a bad clamp, replace the clamp.

Originally Posted by kefrko
I was talking about the cac pipe. Passenger side to be exact. I had both boots off but just couldn't get it out without worrying that I was forcing it too much. Maybe when I redo the map line it will free up enough space. I have my boost gauge "t"'d off of if do maybe mine is a little less flexible.
You're just not holding your mouth right, or not cussing at it right. It does come out. Takes some careful twisting, and rubbing it against something on the way out isn't uncommon. Of course if you think getting it out is hard, leave yourself plenty of time trying to figure out how to get it back in. Once you've done it a few times it's no big deal anymore.

Originally Posted by kefrko
I will take your advice and replace the o ring. Looks like riffraff doesn't sell that one by itself. Do you know which kit it would be in or does anyone sell it by itself?
Not real common for that part to really wear. I don't think I've ever seen a bad one actually, and I've pulled a turbo or two. I'm still running my factory one.

Originally Posted by kefrko
With that amount of miles would it make sense to just replace the plenum boots with new ones while I am in there ? Do the new ones perform better or just help color coordinate under the hood.
Replace the plenum boots when they tear, start to leak, or when you do some upgrades that you believe will push them past their limits. The factory boots are capable of lasting over 470,000 miles (mine have) or they may blow in 50k.

If you want to do something preventative, change your HPOP lines and the high pressure line coming off the steering gear box. I did replace my HPOP lines. I wish I would have replaced my high pressure steering line before it blew out the side of the pump.
 
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